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Hmm, would it effect the pinion angle enough to make a problem? I mean I understand it, it's just not something that seems like that big of a problem to me, I would think it would just work the yokes at a slight more of an angle, I've never seen anyone who's, for example, done a high 4x4 fix this unless the driveshaft angle became very extreme
im no expert by any means,and its bin some time since i have done any drive lines,but if i remember the rule of thumb is not to have more than 5 degrees of angle on either end(s)of the drive shaft.if you look at any 4 by 4 with more than 4" lift they have to lower their trans case to get the proper angle.i did a 83 ranger with a 4" lift years ago and had to go with (i think)a 3 degree wedge,i still had problems with u-joint once or twice a year.this wedge is pretty simple,all you need is the wedge and some new ubolts,if you have a torch it is likely less that a couple hours at most,or you could play with the steady bearingand line it up that waybut imo the wedge is far better way to go.either way i dont think you sould not address the angle problem,for the time it takes you and abby will be much happier with the end results.
Your plan to shorten the truck by moving the rear axle up will work OK. Use grade 8 bolts in the spring mounts. use hard flat washers not lock washers and locking nuts. Remember that you can shim the carrier bearing to help with drivline angles. On long wheelbase trucks sometimes there are 2 or more carrier bearings with different length mounting brackets. Driveshafts can be shortened easily most any machine shop can accomadate. Don't worry about the frame kickup over the rear axle I don't think you will ever load your truck heavy enough to cause a problem. If you decide to cut and section the frame go to a fab shop and get them to bend you a frame sction that fits tightly inside the frame . I've used both methods with no problems if you need any more info PM me.
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