Carrier Bearing Issues
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Sewanee, Tennessee
Carrier Bearing Issues
Hey guys & gals! It's been a while since my last post, but the '66 F100 (long wheel base) has been humming right along....until the past few months. I have had to have the carrier bearing replaced 5 times!!! The truck will run great for a few hundred miles, then "something" happens, a leak begins, the bearing seizes up and then theseal between the "two"axles also needs replacing. Any suggestions on how to stop this expensive habit? 
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,985
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From: Sewanee, Tennessee
I searched the forum and found 3 differnet threads that mention carrier bearings and problems therewith. Will look into all the u-joint/cups, transmission/motor mounts, bell-housing bolts, suspension & bushings, front pinion bolt in the eye spring, chasis bolts/mounts, pinion angle, pilot bushings, motor perch bolts, & dowel pins.
Any OTHER suggestions will be most welcome!
Any OTHER suggestions will be most welcome!
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 790
From: Simi Valley, CA
I searched the forum and found 3 differnet threads that mention carrier bearings and problems therewith. Will look into all the u-joint/cups, transmission/motor mounts, bell-housing bolts, suspension & bushings, front pinion bolt in the eye spring, chasis bolts/mounts, pinion angle, pilot bushings, motor perch bolts, & dowel pins.
Any OTHER suggestions will be most welcome!
Any OTHER suggestions will be most welcome!
The correct term is "driveshaft center support bearing" but it seems here on FTE, ppl call it a carrier bearing, which is a mis-nomer.
If this is so...are you replacing the bearing only, or the entire assembly?
D9TZ4800A .. Driveshaft Center Support Kit / Includes the bearing, shims, rubber support and mounting bracket.
Available from Ford: MSRP: $53.00 // FTE sponsor: Y2KFORDPARTS.COM price: $38.16.
The first thing I would examine is the yoke on the coupling shaft.
If it's scored, it will eat the bearing up in no time. Its U-joint is another suspect.
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Or, are you refering to the differential (carrier) bearings inside the rear end?
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,985
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From: Sewanee, Tennessee
After a LOT of hours tightening/checking & re-checking everything, it appears I get the "bonehead" award. The rear axle appears to be 1 3/4" TOO LONG. Started from the fron and worked all the way to the back of the truck, and discovered the end of the axle sticking out the back of the yoke....hmmmmm.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 28,609
Likes: 18
From: Lake Tahoe, Nevada
I subscribed to this thread anticipating some resolution with the problem, but more because I was not getting the language involved.
So, please help me out here. Are you calling the "center driveshaft support bearing" the carrier bearing? And are you referring to the rear portion of the driveshaft as the "axel?"
Not trying to be a smartass. I had hoped to help out but until we can agree on the terminology, it's difficult to assist.
Is it resolved?
So, please help me out here. Are you calling the "center driveshaft support bearing" the carrier bearing? And are you referring to the rear portion of the driveshaft as the "axel?"
Not trying to be a smartass. I had hoped to help out but until we can agree on the terminology, it's difficult to assist.
Is it resolved?
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Sewanee, Tennessee
Yes to both. The mechanic who is helping me started the "carrier bearing" title. I must take blame for inserting "axle" when I meant rear "drive shaft." I was thinking of how the drive shaft was too far into the rear axle. Sorry.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,985
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From: Sewanee, Tennessee
Before doing anything rash, can someone tell me what the dimensions are supposed to be on a rear drive shaft for a '66 F100? Thanks!
Adding: After doing some looking on this and other sites, other items of interest that might help in answering the "What length should the rear shaft be?" question:
The truck has a 302 engine (circa 1979) and a C-6 automatic transmission.
Adding: After doing some looking on this and other sites, other items of interest that might help in answering the "What length should the rear shaft be?" question:
The truck has a 302 engine (circa 1979) and a C-6 automatic transmission.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 28,609
Likes: 18
From: Lake Tahoe, Nevada
I can't give you any dimensions, but because it is an older truck that was fine for decades, you would have to think something has changed. Driveshafts can't grow, so I would check out the rear axel assembly placement. It is positioned by a couple of steel pins that hold it in place on the rear springs. The pins have been known to shear off allowing the axel to move out of place. I would insure that those pins are intact before changing the driveshaft length. Also take a look at the motor and transmission mounts to be sure that the engine/transmission have not moved back somehow. Also the bushings on the fixed end of your leaf springs could be suspect.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 790
From: Simi Valley, CA
240 I-6 3 speed manual: 33 19/32"
300 I-6 3 speed manual & 352 3 speed manual = 33 1/6"
240/300 I-6's & 352 3 speed Borg Warner Overdrive = 29 19/32"
240/300 I-6's & 352 New Process 435 4 speed & Warner T-18 4 speed = 34 1/16"
352 Cruise-O-Matic = 31 5/8"
240/300 I-6's C4 = 31 63/64"
This is the length of the coupling shaft only, does not include the yoke.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,985
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From: Sewanee, Tennessee
Thanks for all the help, info and suggestions!! The rear drive shaft had apparently been replaced by someone prior to my purchase of the truck. The shaft WAS a bit too long, even after all the tightening, etc. This was remedied, re-balanced and re-installed. The baby is very happy, now. I'm going to try and figure out how to post some pics for y'all.
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