Coolant everywhere!
#1
Coolant everywhere!
Coolant all over the degas bottle
Coolant all over my LF rim like it was spun from the inside
Coolant all over the LF fenderwell
Coolant all over the Left side of my TRUCK
Coolant all over my TRAILER just glistening in the sun as I look at it in the mirror
Coolant gauge went to nearly 240
warning buzzer went off
dash warning indicator illuminated
added nearly a gallon of premium gold then made it to 7350 ft to Flagstaff,AZ pulling 12,000 lbs. added another gallon during the last 400 miles.
Can't push it over 15-17 psi of boost or run RPMs up past 2,000 without seeing the temp gauge radically climb like a pole cat.
I have to massage this thing like it's a 6 cylinder gasser pulling 15k gross.
4% L-o-n-g grades, can't even make the speed limit unless going down hill for fear of the temp gauge to run away, and quick!
Will I make it? I don't know.
but what I do know is NOW is not the time for this mess.
I've made this trip before just fine!
but now I guess its "my turn" for gaskets.
This spooge is everywhere. oh yea, and only 1,761 further to go! hey, lucky me!
Flagstaff's Ford dealer was kind enough to load me up with 4 gallons for the road and offered me a 50/50 chance of making it.
gotta get some sleep
Coolant all over my LF rim like it was spun from the inside
Coolant all over the LF fenderwell
Coolant all over the Left side of my TRUCK
Coolant all over my TRAILER just glistening in the sun as I look at it in the mirror
Coolant gauge went to nearly 240
warning buzzer went off
dash warning indicator illuminated
added nearly a gallon of premium gold then made it to 7350 ft to Flagstaff,AZ pulling 12,000 lbs. added another gallon during the last 400 miles.
Can't push it over 15-17 psi of boost or run RPMs up past 2,000 without seeing the temp gauge radically climb like a pole cat.
I have to massage this thing like it's a 6 cylinder gasser pulling 15k gross.
4% L-o-n-g grades, can't even make the speed limit unless going down hill for fear of the temp gauge to run away, and quick!
Will I make it? I don't know.
but what I do know is NOW is not the time for this mess.
I've made this trip before just fine!
but now I guess its "my turn" for gaskets.
This spooge is everywhere. oh yea, and only 1,761 further to go! hey, lucky me!
Flagstaff's Ford dealer was kind enough to load me up with 4 gallons for the road and offered me a 50/50 chance of making it.
gotta get some sleep
#2
Make sure you pull the dipstick and check the color of the oil for coolant contamination!
When the HG's went in mine it would not run all that hot really but the fan came on very often. When the oil cooler failed it ran very hot and I got the warning buzzer when pulling small hills unloaded.
When the HG's went in mine it would not run all that hot really but the fan came on very often. When the oil cooler failed it ran very hot and I got the warning buzzer when pulling small hills unloaded.
#5
sounds just like when my HG's went! I was only about 100miles from home though...you can try replacing the degas cap, $5 at auto zone, once they let coolant out seems they don't hold pressure very well after...just a thought anyways...
I guess if your going to try and make it home just go slow and keep an eye on the coolant level and the oil dipstick...but trying to limp her home could cost you alot more later.
good luck to you!
I guess if your going to try and make it home just go slow and keep an eye on the coolant level and the oil dipstick...but trying to limp her home could cost you alot more later.
good luck to you!
#6
thanks guys for the input and all the help.
things look ok for now.
so far used 4 gallons of coolant, and have 550 miles to go so it's not so bad, just have to caress it up the hills.
The continental divide was the biggest grunt, 6% grade for... too long.
made it to the top doing 35 mph. That hill just never quit!
I've been bleeding the degas bottle before retiring for the evening just in case the (under pressure) coolant wanted to try and push it's way past any gasket failure/fracture. Don't need a hydrolock situation right now.
Figured if the pressure was relieved, the coolant would be less likely to weasel it's way into the cyls.
Need to find some ARP studs. Online might be the place to find them.
any ideas?
Also,
has anyone had any luck calling Ford regional customer support to have ARP studs authorized as a permanent repair for the shops that want to use the factory bolts because it's a "ford part"? anyone with experience on this? don't really care to "shop" for a shop.
things look ok for now.
so far used 4 gallons of coolant, and have 550 miles to go so it's not so bad, just have to caress it up the hills.
The continental divide was the biggest grunt, 6% grade for... too long.
made it to the top doing 35 mph. That hill just never quit!
I've been bleeding the degas bottle before retiring for the evening just in case the (under pressure) coolant wanted to try and push it's way past any gasket failure/fracture. Don't need a hydrolock situation right now.
Figured if the pressure was relieved, the coolant would be less likely to weasel it's way into the cyls.
Need to find some ARP studs. Online might be the place to find them.
any ideas?
Also,
has anyone had any luck calling Ford regional customer support to have ARP studs authorized as a permanent repair for the shops that want to use the factory bolts because it's a "ford part"? anyone with experience on this? don't really care to "shop" for a shop.
#7
Sorry for the problems benchwrench. I have not read on any forum about Ford officially approving of head studs as an accepted repair.
Places to check on ARP stud prices:
Northern Auto parts
Brown's Diesel
Dieselsite
<TABLE style="WIDTH: 611pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=815 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 611pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 29805" width=815><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow; WIDTH: 611pt; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17 width=815>Northernautoparts.com for $409.99 OR</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl25 height=17>http://northernautoparts.com/ProductModelDetail.cfm?ProductModelId=17209</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17>DieselSite (FTE site supporting vendor):</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl25 height=17>http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=849</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17>Browns Diesel in Riverdale Ca. - $355 before shipping</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl25 height=17>http://www.brownsdiesel.com/</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
Also - there are ebay sellers ...............
Places to check on ARP stud prices:
Northern Auto parts
Brown's Diesel
Dieselsite
<TABLE style="WIDTH: 611pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=815 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 611pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 29805" width=815><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow; WIDTH: 611pt; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17 width=815>Northernautoparts.com for $409.99 OR</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl25 height=17>http://northernautoparts.com/ProductModelDetail.cfm?ProductModelId=17209</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17>DieselSite (FTE site supporting vendor):</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl25 height=17>http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=849</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17>Browns Diesel in Riverdale Ca. - $355 before shipping</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl25 height=17>http://www.brownsdiesel.com/</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
Also - there are ebay sellers ...............
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#9
#10
UPDATE
The dealer found a bad radiator cap and that's it!
There was no indication of bad head gaskets whatsoever.
They said in order to do HG's under warranty, they have to first go through several steps
The first being to replace the cap with one that's more psi. This new cap is rated at 16 psi.
the second thing is the level of coolant, I was told to keep the coolant about one inch BELOW the minimum mark.
After the above step and it still exhibits bad pukage, then they go to the next level and replace the oil cooler and egr cooler as a set. (as they may find the oil cooler plugged)
Then and only then, and IF that doesn't fix the problem, (the third visit to the shop of down time), THEN they can call Ford to authorize HG replacement after they take pictures of evidence after the above has been "repaired" during the previous 3 shop visits noted in the above senario. At this point a Ford guy comes to the shop to visually verify the repair.
This is the steps in order for a warranty claim for HG replacement.
I'm just glad that I didn't need gaskets.
After the initial replacement of the cap, I pulled Loveland pass in Colorado (only 11,138') and a 7% grade!,
Surprizingly enough I found minimal pukage, yes, it still puked! but very little based on my demand of power from the ol' gal, just enough to cover the base area of the cap and down the degass bottle somewhat but nothing like a full blown barf-o-rama like before.
So whoever mentioned to first replace the cap from a local auto parts house, reps to you, tried to find your post.
And that's my advice to Anyone on the road, first replace the cap with one rated for more psi, (up to 16 psi is authorized by Ford) and keep the coolant under the "min" mark by about an inch. And yes, it does look low but it seems to work.
So there's the closure to my pukin' wild ride this summer of 8500 miles towing up and down the roads of America .
Now, who needs ARP head studs? I've got a unopened double box of them sittin' here on the shelf?
The dealer found a bad radiator cap and that's it!
There was no indication of bad head gaskets whatsoever.
They said in order to do HG's under warranty, they have to first go through several steps
The first being to replace the cap with one that's more psi. This new cap is rated at 16 psi.
the second thing is the level of coolant, I was told to keep the coolant about one inch BELOW the minimum mark.
After the above step and it still exhibits bad pukage, then they go to the next level and replace the oil cooler and egr cooler as a set. (as they may find the oil cooler plugged)
Then and only then, and IF that doesn't fix the problem, (the third visit to the shop of down time), THEN they can call Ford to authorize HG replacement after they take pictures of evidence after the above has been "repaired" during the previous 3 shop visits noted in the above senario. At this point a Ford guy comes to the shop to visually verify the repair.
This is the steps in order for a warranty claim for HG replacement.
I'm just glad that I didn't need gaskets.
After the initial replacement of the cap, I pulled Loveland pass in Colorado (only 11,138') and a 7% grade!,
Surprizingly enough I found minimal pukage, yes, it still puked! but very little based on my demand of power from the ol' gal, just enough to cover the base area of the cap and down the degass bottle somewhat but nothing like a full blown barf-o-rama like before.
So whoever mentioned to first replace the cap from a local auto parts house, reps to you, tried to find your post.
And that's my advice to Anyone on the road, first replace the cap with one rated for more psi, (up to 16 psi is authorized by Ford) and keep the coolant under the "min" mark by about an inch. And yes, it does look low but it seems to work.
So there's the closure to my pukin' wild ride this summer of 8500 miles towing up and down the roads of America .
Now, who needs ARP head studs? I've got a unopened double box of them sittin' here on the shelf?
#11
#14
had similar problem. took the the truck to dealer one who replaced the degas bottle and radiator cap. said that the bottle was installed incorrectly and had rub a hole in the bottle. dealer one could not produce the bottle to prove the hole it (i have my thoughts). coolant puking continued to occur while towing (i'm unable to get it to puke while not under load). Just finished a 500 mile trip towing a 12k fifth wheeler. truck is at dealer two. dealer two says its the head gaskets. they are willing to install head studs if i provide them. head studs will be here in two days. no word about egr cooler or oil cooler being bad. ford authorized the hg's to be replaced under warranty.
#15
I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but the old cap was rated at 16 psi also. I have pics of both (side-by-side) in my picture album.
The old one probably had a spring that weakened prematurely, but the rating was the same.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...hp?albumid=492
New Coolant Reservoir cap part #
9C3Z-8101-A
The old one probably had a spring that weakened prematurely, but the rating was the same.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...hp?albumid=492
New Coolant Reservoir cap part #
9C3Z-8101-A