trailer brake testing
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,164
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From: Tri-Cities, TN
trailer brake testing
We purchased an older single axle camper this spring. It has electric brakes, but the P.O. had never tried them, so I don't know if they function. Is there a way to test them without a brake controller? I want to know they will work before I buy a controller. The trailer weighs about 4k, so it would be nice to have trailer brakes. Thanks for any help.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 121
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From: In the Airstream
Don't leave the plunger activated for more than a few seconds.
The brake controller regulates the current going to the brakes. If a full 12 volts is sent to the brakes any length of time (more than a minute or so) the wiring in the magnets will likely burn out.
Depending on how old the trailer is (and in what condition the braking mechanism is) it may make sense to replace the entire backing plate instead of just the brake shoes. The backing plate assembly will give you new shoes, magnets, and, maybe most importantly, new springs and unrusted mechanical (moving) parts. Most of the time the whole assembly can be purchased for not much more than the cost of shoes alone.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,992
Likes: 2
From: Lancaster, MA
I'd just buy the controller and test it that way. If they work great, but if they don't I'd get them fixed. Trailer brakes are well worth it if you have them. Chances are the are not functioning properly after not being used for a while. I'd just get them up and working. I agree with 87mh, I'd replace the entire backing plate.
Super Moderator
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Frederick, MD
I agree. you want a controller anyway so get it and then test from there.
Best way to set the gain: Straight line road go up to about 25 mph, using the controller only squeeze the trailer brakes. Brakes should be able to stop both truck and trailer without locking them up. Should be able to do this easily. Adjust gain till you are confortable with the operation and then try them both out.
Works for me.
Best way to set the gain: Straight line road go up to about 25 mph, using the controller only squeeze the trailer brakes. Brakes should be able to stop both truck and trailer without locking them up. Should be able to do this easily. Adjust gain till you are confortable with the operation and then try them both out.
Works for me.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,164
Likes: 2
From: Tri-Cities, TN
Thanks for the input. I tested them with the breakaway system, they do function. We're lucky out here as we don't see much corrosion, so everything seems to be functioning properly. I'm going to pick up a Prodigy in the next few days and see how it goes.
CO River Rat
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,209
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From: Lake Havasu City AZ
Good choice on the Prodigy! First chance you get, pull the hub drums to check out the brake components and bearings/seals; might save you lotsa heartburn down the road.
Steve
Steve
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Drummonds, TN USA
You also want to repack the bearings at the same time. Since trailers do not have odometers, there's no telling how many miles are on them, what condition the grease is in, or if they need to be adjusted.
NEVER TRUST A PRIOR OWNERS MAINTENANCE - go with your own eyes.
NEVER TRUST A PRIOR OWNERS MAINTENANCE - go with your own eyes.
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Joined: Mar 2003
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From: northern Michigan
I have found that trailers stored outside tend to have the electric brakes frozen up from rust after only a few years of ownership. Sometimes they will brake free on thier own and sometimes not. I have a ramp I use to pick up an axle and have the wife hit the brakes. If after a few tries it still don't work I pull the hub and clean/free them up. A little antisieze on the joints helps keep them loosened up for more then one season.
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