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Code 2808 - Check Trailer Light - what does it mean?
We tow our 5'er with a 2005 F-350 diesel 6-speed that has the integrated trailer brake controller. The last few times we've towed, intermittently the "Check Trailer" light comes on. Initially, Hubby found one of the trailer brakes had a loose wire, so he fixed that up and all the other brakes checked out, but the light is still coming on. It happens mostly when we're just driving, not braking. Most recently, however, when coming to an easy stop, the truck's brake pedal seems to give way & depress suddenly just immediately before the "check trailer" light comes on, and it feels like there are no brakes at all for a split second, then the brakes grab and the trailer brakes lock up.
I took the truck (w/o the trailer) to the dealer last week and had the brakes checked (nothing wrong, pads still have 7mm), parking brake checked (they replaced the lever to set the parking brake because the ratchett wasn't working), and told them about the "check trailer" light issue. They came back with the following on my paperwork: "unable to verify trailer light coming, hook up IDS-retrieved code 2808, performed pinpoint test D1-D5, found trailer hitch connector not fully locking, remove and reinstall connector, connector plastic release/lock tab bent causing concern, rec. trailer hitch connector to start - customer declined at this time". I declined to have the plug-in in the bed replaced, because Hubby said he could do it.
So, tonight, Hubby removed the plug-in from the truck bed, and said that he could tell that it hadn't been removed and looked at as stated on my paperwork, and that nothing was broken or bent on it. He checked the other trailer wiring under and around the truck bed, and said it all looked good, too. We are planning on towing again this weekend, but I'm uneasy about it until this problem is resolved, for obvious reasons.
Does anyone know what code 2808 means? Has anyone had this problem, and if so, how was it resolved? Any ideas?????
I would hook the trailer up, get the truck running, and then press on the brake. While you are holding on the brake, I would get someone to start messing with the wiring. I would wiggle and pull on the trailer wiring and the trailer plug, all along the truck and the trailer, and see if you can make the trailer fail light come on. You possibly could find the trouble spot this way.
I would check the dumb wire nuts that the trailer manufacturers use under the trailer to connect the wires going to the brake drums.... take 'em off and throw them away. Solder those wires and use shrink tubing or at least electric tape on them.
I'd also check the ground from the truck to trailer connection. Just as important as the hot lead. No ground, no power. Unhooked from truck, ohm out the ground from the truck plug to the truck frame. Then check the trailer ground pin to the trailer frame. You MUST have good grounds to complete the connection.
I think we have a fix... finally!! Took the truck & trailer to an RV Repair shop a couple weeks ago and they rewired some stuff and changed out the 7-way system for a 4-way system (or maybe 5-way - can't remember - but I think it's a 4-way). Anyway, they eliminated the butt-connectors on our aftermarket in-the-bed plug by pulling out the 4-way connector on the bumper and direct wiring the factory wiring to a new 4-way connector in the bed. We still have the newly-replaced (and never ever used) 7-way connector on the bumper that Ford just installed in their lame attempt to solve the problem. The Repair Shop also replaced the plug end on the trailer's wiring. All I did was tow the trailer back to storage, but it seemed like everything was working fine. I think I'm going to go get the trailer out of storage tonight so I can get new tires put on it before we go up to Oregon in a couple weeks. We ended up severely flat-spotting two tires when things were all fracked up last month! It'll be another good chance to test everything out, too. What a PITA this has been.......