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Having a cooling issue with my Ranger, it's a 94, 4.0, 5 spd, with AC (that was fixed this summer w/ a new compressor, in case it matters), and 110k on it. In normal driving there seems to be no issue with or w/o ac running, but while sitting in traffic w/ ac on temp rises very quickly to the L in normal, w/o ac it will also rise but only to about the M. In regular/highway driving it will stay below the N. Any when it does start to rise reving it a bit will bring the temp back down slowly
Trying to figure out what could be the issue, coolant level is fine, and not noticing any antifreeze smell. Radiator and thermostat were replaced back in 01 at 77k, headgasket at 60k back in 98. other than that all else is original. Any thoughts on what it could be, thanks
Fan speed increase due reving causes decrease in temp because of higher air flow.
AC use causes higher temp air flow over radiator that results in decrease in heat transfer from the hot coolant to the now slightly cooler air that has just passed over the hot AC radiator.
Just keep an eye on the coolant level and check for leaks when you park it hot. The leak might be evaporating before it hits the ground.
What was the issue with the AC and how was it fixed?
Sounds like the fan clutch may be bad. Once you get to about 30 mph's you don't need a fan.Check the fan clutch first to insure it is working properly. Flush or have the radiator check by shop for flow would be my second place to look. If the fan clutch shows any signs of leakage replace it. If it free wheels replace it. If you let it sit and idle while fully warmed up you should hear the fan come and go as the air temp from the radiator rises and falls if it doesn't replace the fan clutch.
The fan should turn by hand, but you should feel some resistance, it should not spin freely with no resistance, as roger has said.
With your rides vintage you could also have more than one problem playing into this though, like a faulty radiator cap, eroded water pump impeller, collapsing lower radiator hose(so check to see if it's soft & mushy to the squeeze), slipping serp belt from a weak belt tensioner(so check the tensioners indicatng mark, to make sure belt tension is within range), sticking thermostat, engine & radiator cooling system deposits, trash on or between the radiator & A/C condenser, (so I like wtrogers coolant flow check idea too) & wrong % mixture of anti-freeze, any one, or combo of which could cause temp problems.
Some more thoughts on additional things to consider, or check.
Let us know what you find.
Well i checked out things today as best i could. No obvious signs of any leakage anywhere, hoses ok, fan spins by hand but has resistance, coolant looks okay with no signs of rust etc.
So i talked to my neighbor tonight, he is going to take it into his shop next week and take a look, probaly just as well as with how i am i would just start replacing everything.
Belt tension indicator looked okay, also belt is only about a year old. I'm also leaning toward the thermostat, but with the water pump being original that also is a very questionable item.
Well if you've been using the wrong coolant, or additive, or mix ratio, that could have caused cavitation, it'll really eat on the water pump impeller.
You say that the thermostat was replaced back in 01, that makes it 8 years old, so it rightfully belongs on your suspect list imo.
It's low cost, easy to get to on the 4.0L & it's time for a new one anyway, so it's not like your throwing parts at the problem, just think of it as due scheduled maintenance & a nice shade tree mechanic, wrench turning, weekend project, that could justify downing a cool adult beverage or two, as a self indulgence reward!!!! lol
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