Dyno?
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2006
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The reason I am going to put my truck on the dyno, because I think it is a good indicator of how healthy and properly the truck is setup.
She has about 100k on the ticker and along the line somebody added a turbo and new exhaust and also replaced the pump and some other more minor changes.
Dyno numbers will tell me if everything is working properly together and will also give me a baseline so that when I start making changes, I can see how effective they are. Pretty much everytime I get a new truck, I put it on the dyno....just to see where it is.
I had a 3/4 suburban with a whipple supercharged 454 with a nice cam and big exhaust (all california legal), and it amazed the diesel guys at the shop when I ran it on their dyno.
I'd like to see a reliable 250/500 out of this 6.9 without taking the motor apart, and by comparing it to my superduty, I know that it is not even close to that right now. I think with maybe some head studs, some pump work and some more boost, I should be able to get there.....we'll see.
Anybody have some $$$$ I can borrow?
Thanks,
Russ
She has about 100k on the ticker and along the line somebody added a turbo and new exhaust and also replaced the pump and some other more minor changes.
Dyno numbers will tell me if everything is working properly together and will also give me a baseline so that when I start making changes, I can see how effective they are. Pretty much everytime I get a new truck, I put it on the dyno....just to see where it is.
I had a 3/4 suburban with a whipple supercharged 454 with a nice cam and big exhaust (all california legal), and it amazed the diesel guys at the shop when I ran it on their dyno.
I'd like to see a reliable 250/500 out of this 6.9 without taking the motor apart, and by comparing it to my superduty, I know that it is not even close to that right now. I think with maybe some head studs, some pump work and some more boost, I should be able to get there.....we'll see.
Anybody have some $$$$ I can borrow?
Thanks,
Russ
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2006
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Funny thing, I was just looking at the banks site, and according to them, with their waste gated turbo and all that crap, this truck should be at 250/500.
I have a hard time believing that becuse I think my 02 SD is at that stock and this truck does not pull anything like the SD does.
Guess I'll have to wait and see what the dyno says.
R
I have a hard time believing that becuse I think my 02 SD is at that stock and this truck does not pull anything like the SD does.
Guess I'll have to wait and see what the dyno says.
R
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 16
From: Nutter Fort, WV
Joe, If I drive 6 hours there, spend a couple hours at the dyno, and then drive 6 hours home that is almost a whole day wasted.
And most likely it would have to be a week day, so that also adds a lost day at work.
Add in a couple meals on the road, fuel burnt both ways, lost day at work and you are getting rather expensive for a piece of paper with numbers on it.
That looks like two new front fenders and doors cost wise, so I think I would spend money on the fenders and doors first since mine are getting a little rough.
And most likely it would have to be a week day, so that also adds a lost day at work.
Add in a couple meals on the road, fuel burnt both ways, lost day at work and you are getting rather expensive for a piece of paper with numbers on it.
That looks like two new front fenders and doors cost wise, so I think I would spend money on the fenders and doors first since mine are getting a little rough.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,900
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From: Campbell River, B.C.
Dave, I'm working on replacing my driver's side door with an offshore reproduction. The problem with work like this is you need to plan for several consecutive days to do paint prep, parts swapping over, and door adjustments. Replacing a single door is already a full day affair even if you don't have any bashing to do to make it line up right.
Would have loved to get an OEM door, but no local wrecker had one that was clean enough to be worth my while. The nice thing about the aftermarket doors is they are painted with OEM standards (dipping, not spraying) so all the seams and joints get sealed.
I'm also adding some side beams in the new door shell because I always felt the OEM doors were too weak and easy to crease or buckle.
Would have loved to get an OEM door, but no local wrecker had one that was clean enough to be worth my while. The nice thing about the aftermarket doors is they are painted with OEM standards (dipping, not spraying) so all the seams and joints get sealed.
I'm also adding some side beams in the new door shell because I always felt the OEM doors were too weak and easy to crease or buckle.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
Nice thing about replacing doors and fenders at the same time, hang the doors first while you can get to the hinge bolts.
Then hang the fenders where you need them.
My 4x4 sets high enough, if something high enough for me to worry about a weak door hits me, extra metal in the door won't make much difference.
That Prius may get the running board, but the only thing high enough to hit the door will be the windshield.
Then hang the fenders where you need them.
My 4x4 sets high enough, if something high enough for me to worry about a weak door hits me, extra metal in the door won't make much difference.
That Prius may get the running board, but the only thing high enough to hit the door will be the windshield.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,900
Likes: 3
From: Campbell River, B.C.
When I said the are weak, I meant you can put a crease in them with your bare hand if you push at the right location. I did this on the door I will replace a couple of days ago just to see if I could. Sure enough, I pushed a dent into it with my palm. Didn't even have to hit it, just leaned on it.
I also have the towing swing out mirrors on mine that have the lower mount right in the middle of the door height. From factory, there is no backing there and if you lean on the mirror, you will buckle the door without much force. Now if I have to, I can stand on the mirror bracket. Seems silly to make the mirror mount so massive, and the door shell so weak.
But I agree that for a vehicle collision situation, the beams will make no difference. Just finished putting the other beam in actually. Nice and stiff now.
I also have the towing swing out mirrors on mine that have the lower mount right in the middle of the door height. From factory, there is no backing there and if you lean on the mirror, you will buckle the door without much force. Now if I have to, I can stand on the mirror bracket. Seems silly to make the mirror mount so massive, and the door shell so weak.
But I agree that for a vehicle collision situation, the beams will make no difference. Just finished putting the other beam in actually. Nice and stiff now.
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