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get a electric gauge with sender, ISSPRO,DiPricol,Autometer, any of those will do. Than go to ITP and buy adapter hose for the fuelbowl. otherwise you going to have to make somthing up, one thread will be SAE , the other Metric.
easy install.
I found a gauge still in stock at Summit Racing - just not in the LED color I wanted. I wanted the Nordskog gauge because it could be set to blink at a low alarm point and it even retains the low value. The alarm feature does not engage until it reaches a preset pressure (to avoid an alarm condition on every start-up). All this is what I have heard! So I wanted to give it a try ......
Is it possible to run a pressure gauge from one of the aftermarket billet alluminum npt fitted fuel bowl caps? I've seen them for around $50 bucks...was wondering if that wouls be easier than tapping into the test port on the top fuel filter housing.
Is it possible to run a pressure gauge from one of the aftermarket billet alluminum npt fitted fuel bowl caps? I've seen them for around $50 bucks...was wondering if that wouls be easier than tapping into the test port on the top fuel filter housing.
No tapping required - there is a test plug already in a threaded hole in the upper fuel filter housing.
just buy a M12x1.5 (male) to 1/8" NPT (female) fitting. cost you $6.50. take out the test plug on the fuel bowl and screw the fitting in. why spend 40 bucks on an adapter.
The $40 for me was for the ITP hose (which came with the proper fitting) to run over to the drivers side of the engine well so I did not have the sending unit attached to the engine. This gets it away from possible affects of engine vibration. Also, if the sending unit ever goes bad, it is MUCH more accessible to change out. The fitting on the end of the ITP hose is sealed w/ an o-ring. I like this better than just sealing at the threads. I do think they make an individual fitting w/ the o-ring if you did not want the hose.
Oh - and the ITP hose has a schraeder valve at the end where the sending unit is attached so that you can bleed all the air out of the hose - gets a more accurate pressure reading. You really can't bleed all the air out of the fittings without this set-up, but if your fittings are short enough, it should not matter much.
the line is good to get the sender out of the way. will make it easy to change the sender if needed. many just attach the sender as i did and have never had any problems with vibration and what not. my adapter had an o-ring. it all personal preference. http://www.dieselmanor.com/dm_products/fittings.asp
this adapter not only moves away your sender to minimize vibration damage, but moves it away from you radiator hose thats right there, and to puncture it would be easy.
here are some pix of my setup
those are IssPro Perfomax EV2
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