Pickup owners -

I'm not yet an owner but am soaking in as much information as I can which will help me purchase next year - I don't want to jump too fast on a year/model only to regret it later.

I'm finding myself being pulled toward earlier late 30's 40's models and away from the larger early 50's... purely do to looks.

Help me get a better idea of power and highway driving speeds.

• What size engines do these earlier smaller models "at least" need to have a little get up and go?
• What differential gear ratio(s) is preferred? (I see some ads which mention a gear ratio change for better RPMs at highway speeds)
• Finally, what are the advantages/disadvantages (if any) to owning/driving an earlier model pickup vs. a 50's? I'm thinking size, weight, power, mods, room, etc. (all tongue in cheak answer accepted )

Much appreciated

 

Can't be much help myself since my pickup is still not on the road. Would you be looking to stay stock or are you willing to swap out parts in the driveline?

This website gives some great info on the engine specs for the various years
http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/f...ifications.htm
Basically you would be looking at V8s in the range of 85-100Hp based on year primarily. There were some 60Hp V8s in the late 30s and the I6 was also available about '41. You could even find some 4 cyl tractor style engines in the early '40s. From what I have been reading even the V8s don't like high RPM. But the people with practical experience would best be able to discuss this.

The transmissions came in 2 flavors for the pickup (1/2 ton trucks) the light duty 3 spd and the heavy duty 4 speed. The 3 has syncros between 2nd and 3rd the 4 is non-syncro all the way through. Both were 1:1 output. The l3 spds were light duty and often have some problems with first gear being rounded and worn or chipped from downshifting. The first 3spd I got the main drive gear got chewed up, when it went it cracked the case through the bearing support.

The stock rear end for the pickups is a banjo style. '41 and older used a torque tube drive shaft -- if you are not familiar with this its a bit different than the more modern driveshafts. In '42 they started using the newer driveshafts. Interestingly, I have seen replacement "highway" gears for the torque tube banjo but not the open drive style. The common stock gear ratios that you will find are 3.78:1 and 4.10:1.

 

Soule46, great information thank you - will head over to that site later tonight.

I am not looking at staying stock - more so rods. I'll be looking for trucks which can handle today's driving - not looking at racing around but simply a solid daily driver with at least a little bit of power and a great engine tone.

I've been doing my studying by reading through for sale ads and researching into what is listed (learned quite a bit about front ends). Regarding engines and transmissions, I see trucks with 350 Small Blocks, Crate 305s, orig Flat Head V8s, etc.

However simply reading these various styles doesn't mean much to me at this stage unless they add the info 300hp or such. Hoping for a bit of a primer as to what is thumbs up and thumbs down. Now knowing that the largest original 337ci V8 put out 154hp is big big help.

Thank you

 

Do you want to buy a truck ready to drive, is it going to be a project, are you going to do most of the work, what is your skill level?

Basically anything and everything can be done to the all of the trucks you are looking at.

With the '42-'47 you can put disks up front easily, swap in an S10 T5 trans relatively easily and a 9" rear ('57-'72 1/2 ton) easily. this will give you better RPM on the highway for the flathead and better braking especially if you get a '68-'72 9" since it has the widest rear brakes. You can practically choose whatever rear ratio you want by swapping the 9" 3rd member. With a little more work for the lower power applications you can put a for 8" rear in, it would require welding new spring perches but saves on weight and internal power loss. Bumping up the skill level some you can replace the front suspension with an IFS, there are a number of swaps available. The engine swaps are basically unlimited, common are the small block Chevys. They are cheap and from what I understand are structurally similar to the flathead so will fit without much modification. I have seen a bunch though including SBF to a 460. A member on this site 46yblock even put a '50s Ford Y block in his.

Others will have to chime in about the older trucks, I know their suspension was different, along with the torque tube they are a little harder to make swaps, but by no means impossible.

 

i have a 38 that is a fun truck to drive, but not on a long trip.. it is a rough rider. now is apart for a total resto. have redone the flathead, 2-94's heads, isky cam, etc. this is part of the fun of an old truck, am just finishing a 76 bumpside. if i do another i would do a 32 or 36. good luck.

 

Soule, I'm a beginner and will purchase a driver first and foremost with which I can learn with. I'll want to drive it, learn the truck and see where I can make a few changes (if needed) and build up from there. The trucks I've seen for sale which peek my interest - most already have replacement engines, transmission, as well as have new front ends (Mustangs, Nova's, S-10's). The trick will be to bring and pay a knowledgeable truck guy when looking to purchase so I steer clear of a good looking but shoddy build.

I think just keeping it running and in good shape will be quite a bit of work on it's own?

As far as experience, I've only performed minor automotive work, oil changes, brake pad/rotor replacement, minor electrical work. At this point I would leave welding and metal work to a professional. I feel I have a decent understanding, am quite handy, etc etc. Would very much like to learn more.

My only real challenge is storage/work space. We only have a one car garage.

 

hi,
no one ever talks about money, but it determines everything, time, quality, speed, etc.
I am restoring a 1940 ford truck and also building a hot rod 1933 vicky coupe. the truck cost a few hundred dollars to start. the flathead ,original 85 hp, if still good, may cost $3-6000 to restore, and get maybe 150 hp, not good for performance. then there are springs, etc, remember they had no AC, PS, Pbrakes, etc.I estimate it will run about 10,000 if I do all the work myself, including bodywork and paint, take 2 yrs or so. will run like a brick.
A crate engine and trans combo may be had used for $2-5000, carbureted, depends on who you trust, new can run well over 10,000. my hot rod has a 351w edelbrock MPI and an AOD trans, cost 10 grand with shipping, but has 425 HP screamer. with great mileage too. rear ends from junkyards, 8.8 are good, maybe 2-400. anyways, you get the idea.

if I were to do it over again, i would use a chevy 350 (cheap) or ford 5.0 because of parts availability and many more options. remember, you have to redesign the engine bay to accommodate any modern extras. my best advice - add DISK Brakes to the front! power is better, rear can be drums, 70% of stopping power is in the front, be safe. ( i was an auto engineer many yrs ago for GM).

hey everyone, please also remember to add the cost of what you did , it would help me out when making tough economic decisions. Thanks!

 

Gretsch, your taste in model years is good in my book. I like most all of the old Fords from 1952 back. The '53-'56 effie is the most popular, and there are many of them around, just not my cup of joe.

To embark upon a major build up of one of these relics, most all would agree that it takes a cab off/body off approach, beginning with frame. That takes some working space, and the space will be needed for a good amount of time.

It may be worth considering to try and find a partially finished project. Guys often start on something and loose interest, get over their heads, or run out of money. They pop up all the time. Just make sure the project has what you want, or at least doesnt have changes that you need to redo.

As for engines, anything goes (except please not SBC). 302's are nice and light, with a alot of aftermarket support, including aluminum heads. I was over at a friend's yesterday who has a beautiful '46 show truck with 351W
(bought a new chromed front bumper from him).

 

Hi guru, no offense meant by the SBC comment, but they are cheap!

hey, can you post pics of the 46 with the 351w? did he have to redo the firewall? any other space modifications? I may decide to put a 302 in my 1940 if my flathead block is no good, need to know how much room is needed.

also, what did it cost him, if you don't mind me asking....

thanks!

 

Just saw Mprsox wanted to know cost: a lot! Basically I had to rebuild an engine twice. The first one cost $3500 and was completely done for me...very wrong, and was junk. I did all the work but machining on the second and it was close to $3500 again.

Did my own paint and prep on fenders, bed, doors and grill. A Kansas shop in '94 painted the cab for $1000. Last month a shop here in S. OR painted the last piece needed, the hood, for another $1000.

 

yep, can get expensive. 8ba with boring, pins, and fun stuff around 3500. paint for the 76 around 700. should be able to claim these as dependents.

 

I added a pic of Gary's apricot '46 in my gallery. It is the last pic. When the link is clicked to add it to a post my Internet Explorer shuts down completely, so cant put it here.

He has redone the firewall. Also has airconditioning.

I was talking with a friend of his this summer who said Gary has been building cars ever since high school, in one manner or another. His 40 years of experience shows.

 

Bringing someone else is a really good idea. Hopefully you can find someone that has some good experience in welding. This will be one of the more important things with the IFS. While I might not be the best myself I have seen some really bad stuff out there for sale.

Here is a discussion on MII style front ends:
http://jalopyjournal.com/forum/showt...ht=mustang+ifs

They have some really good discussions about the MII in that forum and discuss many applications. You probably can get info on most of the suspension swaps that you have seen as well by searching there, maybe not in the truck you are looking for, but probably in something similar.

 

When I built my truck I wanted something very simple. I installed a 69 Camaro rear end, a turbo 350 trans, a 350 engine and added disc brakes on the original front axle. It has served me well for almost 20 years now and has never left me sitting on the side of the road. The only drawbacks are the cab only seats 2 comfortably with the original bench seat and the original front axle gives a interesting ride.

 

Simple is what I was striving for also. With very limited acquired skills I was going to have to put it together and maintain. Very true about the original axle and ride. I have a dropped tube solid front axle, and would think the ride is the same as yours. You learn quickly where the holes and heaves are in familiar roads.