Coolant leak emergency
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 9,303
Likes: 48
From: Lyndonville, Vermont
Coolant leak emergency
96 awd 4.0l
We went to go to a wedding yesturday and poof a high pressure leak blew antifreeze all over the ground in my driveway...Looked at it this morning and it seems to be pass side intake manifold in the rear...I'm bummed but can't complain...So what to do? Idea's comment tips, tricks,,
Looks like I'll be replacing the gasket...
Dick
We went to go to a wedding yesturday and poof a high pressure leak blew antifreeze all over the ground in my driveway...Looked at it this morning and it seems to be pass side intake manifold in the rear...I'm bummed but can't complain...So what to do? Idea's comment tips, tricks,,
Looks like I'll be replacing the gasket...
Dick
Thread Starter
|
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 9,303
Likes: 48
From: Lyndonville, Vermont
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 5,242
Likes: 0
From: Kiev, Ukraine
may be bad gasket.... what to do? remove TB, look where it leaks (may be use pressure test), check freeze plugs (in heads) then purchaise upper gasket kit, change freeze plugs and gaskets....
Way #2. Add water and drive, then add water LOL!!!
Way #2. Add water and drive, then add water LOL!!!
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,416
Likes: 1
From: Mitchell, SD
Stock up on band-aids and cuss words.
That is all I got,
Just one thing, I would try to make sure that it is your intake gaskets and not a heater hose back there. I know the heater hoses run along the dog house for the rear heat so one of those could have burst.
That is all I got,
Just one thing, I would try to make sure that it is your intake gaskets and not a heater hose back there. I know the heater hoses run along the dog house for the rear heat so one of those could have burst.
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 9,303
Likes: 48
From: Lyndonville, Vermont
Was hoping for that...but no.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 830
Likes: 0
From: Kitchener,Ontario,Canada
Thats bad luck! I think there are now improved gaskets for this area now? Also is there a TSB out on this?
Did the engine drink coolant before this (slowly).
Did the engine drink coolant before this (slowly).
Trending Topics
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
Likes: 5
From: Washington state
if it's leaking out, it's also leaking into the oil
common problem on the Ford 4.0L OHV engine
here's my repair a couple years ago.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...-into-oil.html
mine had corrosion on the lower intake manifold seat area at the rear. cleaned up with wire brush and sealed with lots of Permatex "The Right Stuff" sealant.
got pics somewhere of corrosion and repair.
look for corrosion in the lower manifold FI holes also, makes it hard to reseal injectors. try to remove with injectors in place. i took mine out to soak/clean them.
use the 2 piece FelPro intake manifold gasket set, MS 98005 T. spendy but the best on the market. allows for movement of the upper/lower intake manifold movement caused by the small bolts, low clamping pressure and tall plenum; all of which vibrate and move on the shaker 4L.
comes with the FelPro PermaDryPlus valve cover gaskets, can't be beat for sealing. also has the upper/plenum gaskets
use lots of Permatex "Right Stuff".
torque the intake manifold bolt per the 4 step OEM method.
let set overnight and retorque.
run a couple thousand miles and retorque.
mine been running 2 years and no more leaks into oil.
coolant kills bearing in a few miles.
common problem on the Ford 4.0L OHV engine
here's my repair a couple years ago.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...-into-oil.html
mine had corrosion on the lower intake manifold seat area at the rear. cleaned up with wire brush and sealed with lots of Permatex "The Right Stuff" sealant.
got pics somewhere of corrosion and repair.
look for corrosion in the lower manifold FI holes also, makes it hard to reseal injectors. try to remove with injectors in place. i took mine out to soak/clean them.
use the 2 piece FelPro intake manifold gasket set, MS 98005 T. spendy but the best on the market. allows for movement of the upper/lower intake manifold movement caused by the small bolts, low clamping pressure and tall plenum; all of which vibrate and move on the shaker 4L.
comes with the FelPro PermaDryPlus valve cover gaskets, can't be beat for sealing. also has the upper/plenum gaskets
use lots of Permatex "Right Stuff".
torque the intake manifold bolt per the 4 step OEM method.
let set overnight and retorque.
run a couple thousand miles and retorque.
mine been running 2 years and no more leaks into oil.
coolant kills bearing in a few miles.
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Thread Starter
|
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 9,303
Likes: 48
From: Lyndonville, Vermont
if it's leaking out, it's also leaking into the oil
common problem on the Ford 4.0L OHV engine
here's my repair a couple years ago.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...-into-oil.html
mine had corrosion on the lower intake manifold seat area at the rear. cleaned up with wire brush and sealed with lots of Permatex "The Right Stuff" sealant.
got pics somewhere of corrosion and repair.
look for corrosion in the lower manifold FI holes also, makes it hard to reseal injectors. try to remove with injectors in place. i took mine out to soak/clean them.
use the 2 piece FelPro intake manifold gasket set, MS 98005 T. spendy but the best on the market. allows for movement of the upper/lower intake manifold movement caused by the small bolts, low clamping pressure and tall plenum; all of which vibrate and move on the shaker 4L.
comes with the FelPro PermaDryPlus valve cover gaskets, can't be beat for sealing. also has the upper/plenum gaskets
use lots of Permatex "Right Stuff".
torque the intake manifold bolt per the 4 step OEM method.
let set overnight and retorque.
run a couple thousand miles and retorque.
mine been running 2 years and no more leaks into oil.
coolant kills bearing in a few miles.
common problem on the Ford 4.0L OHV engine
here's my repair a couple years ago.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...-into-oil.html
mine had corrosion on the lower intake manifold seat area at the rear. cleaned up with wire brush and sealed with lots of Permatex "The Right Stuff" sealant.
got pics somewhere of corrosion and repair.
look for corrosion in the lower manifold FI holes also, makes it hard to reseal injectors. try to remove with injectors in place. i took mine out to soak/clean them.
use the 2 piece FelPro intake manifold gasket set, MS 98005 T. spendy but the best on the market. allows for movement of the upper/lower intake manifold movement caused by the small bolts, low clamping pressure and tall plenum; all of which vibrate and move on the shaker 4L.
comes with the FelPro PermaDryPlus valve cover gaskets, can't be beat for sealing. also has the upper/plenum gaskets
use lots of Permatex "Right Stuff".
torque the intake manifold bolt per the 4 step OEM method.
let set overnight and retorque.
run a couple thousand miles and retorque.
mine been running 2 years and no more leaks into oil.
coolant kills bearing in a few miles.
Thread Starter
|
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 9,303
Likes: 48
From: Lyndonville, Vermont
if it's leaking out, it's also leaking into the oil
common problem on the Ford 4.0L OHV engine
here's my repair a couple years ago.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...-into-oil.html
mine had corrosion on the lower intake manifold seat area at the rear. cleaned up with wire brush and sealed with lots of Permatex "The Right Stuff" sealant.
got pics somewhere of corrosion and repair.
look for corrosion in the lower manifold FI holes also, makes it hard to reseal injectors. try to remove with injectors in place. i took mine out to soak/clean them.
use the 2 piece FelPro intake manifold gasket set, MS 98005 T. spendy but the best on the market. allows for movement of the upper/lower intake manifold movement caused by the small bolts, low clamping pressure and tall plenum; all of which vibrate and move on the shaker 4L.
comes with the FelPro PermaDryPlus valve cover gaskets, can't be beat for sealing. also has the upper/plenum gaskets
use lots of Permatex "Right Stuff".
torque the intake manifold bolt per the 4 step OEM method.
let set overnight and retorque.
run a couple thousand miles and retorque.
mine been running 2 years and no more leaks into oil.
coolant kills bearing in a few miles.
common problem on the Ford 4.0L OHV engine
here's my repair a couple years ago.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...-into-oil.html
mine had corrosion on the lower intake manifold seat area at the rear. cleaned up with wire brush and sealed with lots of Permatex "The Right Stuff" sealant.
got pics somewhere of corrosion and repair.
look for corrosion in the lower manifold FI holes also, makes it hard to reseal injectors. try to remove with injectors in place. i took mine out to soak/clean them.
use the 2 piece FelPro intake manifold gasket set, MS 98005 T. spendy but the best on the market. allows for movement of the upper/lower intake manifold movement caused by the small bolts, low clamping pressure and tall plenum; all of which vibrate and move on the shaker 4L.
comes with the FelPro PermaDryPlus valve cover gaskets, can't be beat for sealing. also has the upper/plenum gaskets
use lots of Permatex "Right Stuff".
torque the intake manifold bolt per the 4 step OEM method.
let set overnight and retorque.
run a couple thousand miles and retorque.
mine been running 2 years and no more leaks into oil.
coolant kills bearing in a few miles.
Thanks I'll be getting the gasket set tomorrow...
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
Likes: 5
From: Washington state
oil analysis lab test is only way to tell for certain if coolant is leaking into oil.
only takes small amounts of the silica, sodium and potassium from coolant to damage bearings.
by the time one sees coolant in the oil, she's toast
i use Butler CAT oil lab in S. Dakota for my rigs.
only takes small amounts of the silica, sodium and potassium from coolant to damage bearings.
by the time one sees coolant in the oil, she's toast
i use Butler CAT oil lab in S. Dakota for my rigs.
Thread Starter
|
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 9,303
Likes: 48
From: Lyndonville, Vermont
oil analysis lab test is only way to tell for certain if coolant is leaking into oil.
only takes small amounts of the silica, sodium and potassium from coolant to damage bearings.
by the time one sees coolant in the oil, she's toast
i use Butler CAT oil lab in S. Dakota for my rigs.
only takes small amounts of the silica, sodium and potassium from coolant to damage bearings.
by the time one sees coolant in the oil, she's toast
i use Butler CAT oil lab in S. Dakota for my rigs.
Never got the oil tested in any rig never will never had an oil related problem..The oil in this van never even gets dirty.
Thanks
Thread Starter
|
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 9,303
Likes: 48
From: Lyndonville, Vermont
Got apart today... All looks well except the two rear water jacket gasket rubbers.
I'll fill everyone in on all the problems later...Engine looks new no corrosion. Came aprt pretty good. Maybe 6 hours..I have the good felpro gaskets. Should be no problem getting it back together....Just a note intake bolts were not tight...
Any assembly advise would be great..
Dick
I'll fill everyone in on all the problems later...Engine looks new no corrosion. Came aprt pretty good. Maybe 6 hours..I have the good felpro gaskets. Should be no problem getting it back together....Just a note intake bolts were not tight...
Any assembly advise would be great..
Dick
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,015
Likes: 208
From: SoCal
Apparently the vibratory modes of the v6 engine can shake loose all sorts of fasteners, so it's common to find loose bolts.
About torquing the intake bolts, there are 3 or 4 steps that you torque them to, but you should run your torque wrench around the bolts twice at each setting, or until the torque values stabilize. Then repeat with the next torque step. What usually happens is the first bolt that you torque down in the sequence will loosen up as you work your way through the other bolts in the same sequence, so they will not all be equally tight. Running through them twice will make sure they are, and they will uniformly clamp down on the gasket, before you go to the next step.
Then after a couple weeks of operating, it's a good idea to re-check the bolts. Of course, by that time, a lot of parts would be in the way, so it would be somewhat of a hassle. But it's a really good idea anyway; you don't want it to leak again.
About torquing the intake bolts, there are 3 or 4 steps that you torque them to, but you should run your torque wrench around the bolts twice at each setting, or until the torque values stabilize. Then repeat with the next torque step. What usually happens is the first bolt that you torque down in the sequence will loosen up as you work your way through the other bolts in the same sequence, so they will not all be equally tight. Running through them twice will make sure they are, and they will uniformly clamp down on the gasket, before you go to the next step.
Then after a couple weeks of operating, it's a good idea to re-check the bolts. Of course, by that time, a lot of parts would be in the way, so it would be somewhat of a hassle. But it's a really good idea anyway; you don't want it to leak again.