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1985 was the first year the 302 became a roller block.
The Mustang used a roller cam starting in that same year, whereas the F-150s still used the flat tappet cam. I think it was 1996 that the F-150s starting using the roller cams as well, but I am not absolutely sure about that.
Ahh, I took 2 seconds to google it like I should've done in the first place and found out Lew was right. I found the specs for your cam: 1985-1988 5.0L Mustang Roller Cam
Part # E5ZE-6250-AA
Advertised Duration: 266 / 266
Duration @ .050: 210 / 210
Lift w 1.6 rocker: 0.444 / 0.444
Lift w 1.7 rocker: 0.472 / 0.472<-------this is what I was talkin about with the rockers.
Lobe seperation: 115
Having a roller is gonna give you a larger selection to pick from. If your staying SD then your still gonna want to keep your LSA at 114 or higher or you'll have to get a chip for it. And for your truck's weight and tires I'd suggest you still keep the 'duration @.050' at 220 or less; 260-270 advertised duration arena.
I might suggest the Comp 35-308-8 or 35-349-8.
ETA: Be careful mixing 1.7/72 RR with an aftermarket cam. If you go over board on lift your gonna have piston-valve clearance issues... Oh and if you go over .500 lift I think it's highly recommended to replace the stock valve springs in order to avoid floating. (i think it's valve float)
I got in contact with a local company that comes Highly recomended from the racing community. Thumper Heads.... Im talking to him about a deal on a Cam and heads. He recomended the E303 cam and a set of E7 heads. We are getting further in depth on price and install.... Im going to bring up what you said above, and thank you for your informative post! Much appreciated.
Originally Posted by lew52
James has some cam #s you can check out , i like what hes saying about the rockers & timing , 1.72 or 1.70 rockers with some advanced timing might be what your looking for , or new cam plus roller rockers . I like the scorpion 1.72 RR I use them on the e 303 cam & it makes a big difference in the cam .... Lew
E303 was what was recomended to me as well as I am looking into heads... by the way I got a price on the gear install from a friend who races dirt track, $150 for front and rear for the install. So now I just have to find what gears. I think I have decided on the 4.56 or 4.88's. Like you guys said the 4.10's are just not going to cut it...Whats a good gear name brand? By they way thanks for all your info Lew!
Originally Posted by Conanski
Another vote got more gearing here, if you have an OD tranny then you should be considering high 4.xx to mid 5.xx ratios.
What intake is on the motor, the truck or HO intake?
I got a pair of Ported E7s from Mike at thumper waiting to go on my 347 build that I will hopefully have finished in late winter/early spring.
He's a great guy and does awesome work on his heads but, he's a bit more of a mustang guy. And building a 5.0 for a Stang or Lifted truck on 38"s is different. You can easily do better than a FFRP Mustang Alphabet cam from the aftermarket, the E303 was made for a 3500lb stang so the torque/power band won't really be where you'll need it for a 5500+lb F-150. You'll pick up more power with the E303 at high RPMs, probably over 3500rpms, and you'll lose power down low.
I got a pair of Ported E7s from Mike at thumper waiting to go on my 347 build that I will hopefully have finished in late winter/early spring.
He's a great guy and does awesome work on his heads but, he's a bit more of a mustang guy. And building a 5.0 for a Stang or Lifted truck on 38"s is different. You can easily do better than a FFRP Mustang Alphabet cam from the aftermarket, the E303 was made for a 3500lb stang so the torque/power band won't really be where you'll need it for a 5500+lb F-150. You'll pick up more power with the E303 at high RPMs, probably over 3500rpms, and you'll lose power down low.
Plus the idle/drivability problems with SD.
So your saying the Comp 35-308-8 or 35-349-8 are a better fit than the E303 even with the E7 heads?
I know this isn't on topic but I did want to say I considered buying a long bed 2wd F-150 with a massive lift sitting on 35'' tires (I think). I remember watching that truck run around town. It looked efortless. My point here is simply yes, the 302 probably isn't the best motor to use for your application, but it will still get the job done (just gear it).
I know this isn't on topic but I did want to say I considered buying a long bed 2wd F-150 with a massive lift sitting on 35'' tires (I think). I remember watching that truck run around town. It looked efortless. My point here is simply yes, the 302 probably isn't the best motor to use for your application, but it will still get the job done (just gear it).
Like I said earlier, it would suprise most... Im looking at the 4.56 or 4.88's. is Genuine Gear any good???
Originally Posted by Conanski
Yes but it's more to do with the EFI system.
SO the E303 dont like to play with the combo of SD/EFI motors?
On a side note have any of you ever messed with Mini Spools in the rear end?
Yeah, the more and more I read about spools they are great in dirt but would NOT be something I am remotly interested in. I was looking at 4wheelparts and they have gears Genuine Gears for $175 rear and $185 front.
That's about right for a gear set, just be aware you need a new diff carrier for the front and an install kit for both ends plus labor.. so the total cost can run $800+ easily.
That's about right for a gear set, just be aware you need a new diff carrier for the front and an install kit for both ends plus labor.. so the total cost can run $800+ easily.
ahhh ****!!! LOL and I thought I was going to get out cheap! LOL
OK so the parts list is:
FRONT
1. Install kit
2. Gears
3. Diff carrier
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