IM going to have to research SD and MA...Im not familiar with them at all. I dont try and play smart, if I dont know I will admit your way over my head. Its a single cab and short bed.....

 

Right on man! your 2500 rpm guess is SUPER close. about 1800-2000 is where she starts to come alive. Im running Boggers so for what I go through they take me where I need. My main goal is to get more power and get up to speed faster. I run dogs so when Im driving it its ***** to the walls. So if Im reading you correct my guess at 4.10's will still leave me slow? So I need the 4.56's....... I will get some pics up soon.

Crap, all my pics are on the computer here at work or at home...the link I see to post pics only takes URL's....I will try and get some on a free hosting site and get them up this weekend

 

Reg cab short bed your good with the 302 , Yeah do some reading on SD & MA , it takes awhile to get use to the EFI stuff , You can check out pro m racing, they are very good & have everthing you need for mass air .... Lew

 

Very cool! Will do some reading on those! Thank you!



Try this...Its the only pic I got here at work if this works I got some more at home... https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...p?albumid=3714

 

OK after some reading and googleing....Im an idiot LOL You are correct it IS an SD motor duh cause it dont have a MAF sensor LOL wow amazing how things like that will make you feel like an idiot LOL

I was reading (a lot was on mustang forums) that MAF is liked better than SD, although they didnt say why LOL... Lew with your experience (or anyone else) can I still get good power out of a cam swap on a SD motor? and beings its an HO motor I wont need anything but the Cam....right?

 

The SD is alot easyer than going to mass air . If you are going to build the motor for serious hp MA is good to have . I had a 88 stang that was SD & it ran fine , just if you go to aggresive on the cam it won't want to idle right , so you just need a cam that will work with SD ...Lew

 

if you can get the parts for a mass air swap(which if you have a donor vehicle isn't very hard at all), you should go for it. Mass air is a much more intelligent system than speed density and works better with just about any upgrade you can do

 

Excuse me, but the Mustang 302 is not THAT much more powerful than you are leading yourself to believe. The F150 and the Mustang 302 has the same motor, basically. And if you are comparing motors from the same year, they both have the same exact heads and everything. The cams are different, but not much else. You also have to remember that the Mustang is a LOT lighter than a full-size F150, and is geared differently as such, so that is probably why most people feel the Mustang has a more powerful motor than what is found in the full-size Ford F150s.

Also, the Ford 302 went from flat tappet to rollers starting in 1985.

 

I'm not saying you will be slow but you will only gain more power the lower you gear your truck. Like we said, the 302 doesn't make gobs of torque off idle like the 351 on up does. If it were me, I would find out how low I can gear it with your axles and go with that. I don't think you can gear it low enough with those tires and a small V8. If you were running smaller tires I'd say 4.56 would be fine.. But you're running some really massive tires.

You'll be fine either way. ALL I'M SAYING IS; Gear it LOW. Don't pay attention to what it says about bringing it back to "stock" (it never goes back to stock. The larger the tire, the more power you lose. Gearing can only help so much).

Run your pictures through Photobucket. That's what I do (so that means it's EASY!).

 

Thats true the Ho has a differant cam & forged pistons , otherwise the same as the truck , the mustang has better exhaust & differant intake,, the best truck motors for the 302 were 95 - 96 . roller cam , mass air , Lew

 

just a suggestion i am running 4.56 gears with 33in tires and i am happy with it you should be running at LEAST 4.88s with those tires you have on your truck and be prepared to be blowing up a bunch of crap if your motor has any *****

as for the motor

i am building a 302 (.030 over) right now with holley systemax heads lunati roller cam comp cams roller lifters edelbrock rpm airgap intake manifold 600cfm holley forged pistons long tube headers 1.6 rollerrockers main girdle and a bunch of other stuff should make 394 horse with out nitrous and 519 on nitrous and rev to 7500rpms

^so basically if you want power you need to do something with your fuel system either do the mass air or swap to a carb then you can run a giant lumpy cam some good flowing heads and make real power. to turn those tires i think your going to need a new set of heads and a new cam at least, i REALLY doubt a 302 motor with a stock cam (roller or not) and e7 heads and speed density can turn 38in bogger tires in mud, boggers are easy to burn on the street but when you get them burried up about half way in clay or mud they become a real pain to turn without real power

if i was you i would do a SAS to a d60 and put a 10.5 out back with like 5.14 gears or so if you have an overdrive transmission

 

I think the 1990 F-150 5.0s were the first ones to get a roller block and they still didn't get roller cams till '92 or '93 and that was only reduced base circle. So even if your block is roller ready I would bet that it still has a flat tappet cam. Not sure, just my best guess.

The 31-255-5 comp cam is a good candidate for a SD flat tappet 302 truck motor. It'll help increase power where you need it in a heavy lifted truck. For SD keep the LSA at 114 or higher and for your truck keep 'duration @.050 lift' below 220 and you should be good.

If your block is roller ready but doesn't have a roller in it it might be worth it to convert over to a roller with a 'spider & dogbone' kit from a roller stang and some 6.400" pushrods from a roller 5.0, plus roller lifters.

Also in the mean time you could put some 1.7 or 1.72 ratio roller rockers on to increase the lift on your current cam for more air flow. And try increasing your base timing a few degrees, the most people seem to get away with before detonation is 4* and some can't even get that.... without using higher octane anyways, but since you don't drive it much you might be ok with running 93.

 

He has the HO motor so its a roller ...Lew

 

Ahh, I took 2 seconds to google it like I should've done in the first place and found out Lew was right. I found the specs for your cam:
1985-1988 5.0L Mustang Roller Cam
Part # E5ZE-6250-AA
Advertised Duration: 266 / 266
Duration @ .050: 210 / 210
Lift w 1.6 rocker: 0.444 / 0.444
Lift w 1.7 rocker: 0.472 / 0.472<-------this is what I was talkin about with the rockers.
Lobe seperation: 115

Having a roller is gonna give you a larger selection to pick from. If your staying SD then your still gonna want to keep your LSA at 114 or higher or you'll have to get a chip for it. And for your truck's weight and tires I'd suggest you still keep the 'duration @.050' at 220 or less; 260-270 advertised duration arena.

I might suggest the Comp 35-308-8 or 35-349-8.

ETA: Be careful mixing 1.7/72 RR with an aftermarket cam. If you go over board on lift your gonna have piston-valve clearance issues... Oh and if you go over .500 lift I think it's highly recommended to replace the stock valve springs in order to avoid floating. (i think it's valve float)

 

James has some cam #s you can check out , i like what hes saying about the rockers & timing , 1.72 or 1.70 rockers with some advanced timing might be what your looking for , or new cam plus roller rockers . I like the scorpion 1.72 RR I use them on the e 303 cam & it makes a big difference in the cam .... Lew