I would like to know your opinions and thoughts. I have a 83 f250 with open dana 60s in front and rear411:1 gears. with 36x12.5x16 super swampers, and a 351w. I would like to change the carrier to either a limited slip or locker. I run the truck on the highway and a good bit on the trail. from what I've been able to read a "power lok" would be a good limited slip. I'm just wondering how good? On the other hand a detroit locker would be excellent off road, but I'm wondering what kind of pavement manner's they have? could you all tell me any and everything yu know about them? or if you think there is a better carrier out there, this is for the rearend. I plan on doing the front when funds permit. thanks for your help and opinions in advance.

 

Do you have a "power lok" already? This is the best LS diff you can find. It is durable, can be set up fairly tight and with its 4 spider gear design is by far the best you can find.
If you have not ever driven a vehicle equpied with a locker in the rear, you may try to find one to drive. I run a Detroit on the rear of my rigs and think they are just fine on the street. Others that do not need such an extreme lock up may think a simple LS is fine for the many different applications but the LS has limitations, and did not offer the traction I was looking for. Keep in mind that I tow trailers with a Detroit and drive on the highway a bunch. Having a locker back there does require a bit of a driving style change, but with a slightly different driving style you can get around and not even know it is back there. Dont believe all of the hype about the ratcheting noises, and bangs, or harsh engagements. I have yet to own or drive one that acted this way. One can tell when it engages but this is a fairly subtle transition, and is not as bad as many would make it out to be.
I can tell you that the idea of throwing any traction device in the rear D60 should be re-considered. The 30 spline axles of the rear 60 are weak and will break once additional torque is applied to both axles. See an open diff sends power to the axle with the least resistance, while this is no good for traction ot helps the axles survive. Get one wheel in the air and nothing can break. Add a locker so both drive axles get power, and the one left on the ground has to be responsible to motivate the vehicle, and you guessed it, it will fail.
Something with 1.5" axles should be on the list of mods. Spending money on a device that will create reliability problems right now would be a waste of money. Its difficult to get your money out of any 30 spline D60 traction device, and an open D60 rear is literally worthless, so spend your money once and consider an upgrade before you throuw your money away.
Also know that the Power Lok is a 30 spline unit, and will have to be split and rebuilt so you can install 35 spline side gears. This will permit you to install it into the front axle and use it up there. There are some carrier break issues, but if you plan on staying with 4.11's you will be fine there.
The Power lok up front helps with steering while the vehicle is in 4wd and can act as a fuse to help protect the front end from breakage. See the D60F also has 30 spline outer axle shafts and these are also a very weak link, so unless you plan on upgrading the outer shafts, you may like all of the benifits of the LS up front.

 

Ed I don't know who you deal with but you can buy a Powr-Loc in 30 or 35 spline. You need to make sure you have the right offset for the gears you want to run.

 

Most are 30 spline and finding original fronts in 35 spline are few and far between. I search my local junkyards for complete rear axles and tear these out. Then I re-build them and upgrade things like bolts and clutches. During this time I uupgrade the side gears to 35 spline for use up front. For some of my gear combos, I end up running thick gears (no spacers) and upgraded bolts for the ring gear.
Less expensive for me to buy a beat up unit from the salvage yard and give it new life. I build them pretty tight, and they can turn 44's without much slipage, but have nice manners for a front LS unit.
I know you run this carrier as well. Have not heard of anyone that does not like it.

I always keep a couple laying on the shelf:

 

Ok, I thought you were saying you couldn't buy a brand new 35 spline Powr-Loc. I misunderstood.

 

Thanks for all the information and advice. I ordered a new 35 spline power lok for the front this evening. I do plan on upgrading to 35 spline stubshafts. (that is just ordering the shafts and new 35spline hubs correct?).....now as far as the rear goes, i haven't bought anything yet. If I wanted to upgrade the rear up 35spline axles would that be as simple as ordering a 35spline carrier and new 35 spline axles? if not what eles would I have to do? I appericate all the input and information

 

As for the front 35 spline question the answer is yes but you could upgrade the ujoints as well to like CTM's while you are at it and that front end will be very strong. Now for the rear axle there is more involved in making 35 spline shafts work. You would have to have the hubs machined to fit the larger axles. You could probably find a used dana 70 or a 14 bolt GM axle for about what the machining will cost you on your 60 rear. Going with 70 or 14 bolt would give you more benefits such as larger ring and pinions as well.
I am guilty of spending a bunch of money on a rear dana 60 and I really wish I had spent that money on a 70 or 14 bolt from the get go.

 

Thanks, I will put good ujoints in the stubs up front, but will have to think long and hard about CTMs. that seems like quite a large amount for joints. what would be a good 2nd choice? but since it's just a matter of joints/hubs/stubshafts, to up grade i might do it...As for the rear it does sound like alot of cash to go from 30 to 35 splines. I hate to put a whole new rear in though, I just put rear disc's on there along with stainless brake lines. (life can be a bitch) maybe i'll go ahead with the power lok, but try to keep off the skinny pedal for a couple years, until i come across a good deal on a 14bolt. think that would be a ok plan for now? thanks for the insight and information.

 

I will start looking for a dana 70 or gm 14 bolt, the only problem is: what year should I be looking for? what type of vehicle did/do they come in. also what would be involved to put one under my truck? just moveing the spring pearches? thanks

 

I'm not an expert on them but I had always heard the factory limited slips weren't very effective or durable. I thought the tru trac was the best posi you could get. If the power loks are beefed up how long will they last for light off roading? I'm curious because I replaced the factory posi in my 06 Ranger with a powertrax no-slip locker cause I wasn't happy with the factory setup. The no-slip works well for my purposes. I was going to install a locker in my 93 250 but if the factory setup can be made to work well I can install
one for a lot less than a new locker. Do they make one to fit in the front?
A dana 50?

 

kickingber theres 2 things for you to read here. 1st is this thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...le-shafts.html

And this was a conversation I had with 75350 on this subject:

I am actually more fond of the 14 bolt than any other rear axle. Not all are the same, but this one appears to be just fine. You do not want too many of the dually axles and want to stay away from mid 80's axles with ribbed center sections. The one you found does not have any ribs, and takes decent hubs. These will actually have the same spindle nut as your dana 60 so you will not have purchase additional tools to work on it.
Things you will have to do is, make sure that your gear ratio is the same as the front, but you will find that parts and set-up is much easier than any other axle.
This axle also has 9/16" lugs, so you will have to purchase new ones. Your current lugs are 1/2" and these are larger.
You will also have to modify your driveshaft because this axle has a slight offset to the pinion and it takes a different style u-joint than your currecnt joint. It is a funny size, and it uses straps instead of typical u bolts. You can purchase std 1350 or even 1410 yokes, and if your ride is lifted it might just work with very little modification. You will also have to make up some brake lines, since your truck feeds from the left side and the 14B is closer the the center gut favors the right side of the diff. Vent tube is different, but easilly modified.
These brakes are larger than yours, and you will find better braking over your current set-up.
Disc brake conversions are cheap as can be, and pretty easy.
You will be pleased with this rear axle, and once you decide to install a locker, you will find that these are cheap as well. YOu wont invest near as much iin this as you did in the dana, and this axle will not let you down.
Much luck.
Ed

I think reading those should help you. I just hate to see you waste more money on that rear 60 like I did.

 

I personally run a regular Spicer U-joint in the front axle shafts without any problems, have broke 2 35 spline outers and a couple lockouts with factory inners and Spicer u-joints.. no need to spend big $ on CTMs if the shafts break first..

 

Thats good to hear cause all Ive broke so far is 1 standard ujoint in the front axle of my 79 60 front. I still have the stock outter stubs and I was going to buy the CTM's when I upgraded my outters figuring the joints & hubs would be the weak link. Ive even been contemplating Longfields but Im too poor these days.

 

If u had a D44 I would say buy longfields. My Dad runs them in his 74 bronco with 38.5s n the shaft is the weak link.

I think if I buy new shafts for my D60 they will be the big CV style that longfield sells.

 

Ronzi, thanks for the link, It sounds like I'm in the same boat you were.(son-of-a-bitchen-****) I guess this is how one learns about this stuff. Are you happy with the 14b set-up? do you have any thoughts or know anything about the sterling? Are they ford? which years did they come in,and what size truck? 79f350 sure seems to know his stuff wish I had a neighbor like him(lol). I'm very grateful for your help with this situation I'm in. since I'm only running a little over stock 351w,and 36x12.5x16, do you think i'll be able to slide by for a little while with this axle providing i stay away from the skinny pedal and not get to crazy? I'm thinking if the sterling came in fords (providing there a good axle) I won't have to do so much modifying to make it fit? What do you think? I did a search on ebay for one and there isn't much to find on them. where would be a good place to find one? thanks again.