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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 03:18 PM
  #16  
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I guess my biggest concern in this is that after I do all of this, should it go to 300k+, or do I just drive it till it dies? Opinions??
 
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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 04:08 PM
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re

Originally Posted by dmueller71
My second problem for the day is my oil pressure at start up. A little history, I had a problem with the HPOP resevoir draining overnight. So I would have several no start mornings where I had to pull the HPOP plug and manually fill the tank. I had the injector o-rings replaced, and it helped tremendously. Never a no start morning since. BUT, even though the system is holding enough pressure to start up in the morning, the guage will show no pressure for about 5 seconds or so, and if I don't rev it a little until I get the guage to read something, it will die, and potentially not restart without the manual filling of the tank. Any ideas?
If you are still havering to fill up the oil reservoir then I would suspect the ipr. I don't know for sure, but I imagine that there are some check valves in the system. I don't see that a cracked pick-up would cause the resevoir to be down but I have been wrong before.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 05:03 PM
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I haven't had to fill the resevoir manually for a while, just after it fires up first thing, if I don't rev it up right away, it will die. Then I have to crank it a bit to get it to go. Then it acts like there's air in the system ie. chugs and smokes. Trust me I would much rather not have to pull the motor, I'll see what happens tomorrow in the AM.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2009 | 08:58 PM
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If somone made a pre-oiler for the 7.3 that would work for you.

I bought a '78 Saab turbo in about '82. The guy I bought it from installed a pre-oiler - turbo saver. Turn on the key and a pump would bring the oil pressure up to about 35 psi in just seconds and then I would turn the key to start. When the key was turned off the pump would run for about three minutes oiling the turbo bearings. It would sure be nice to have something like that for the 7.3.

Edit : On the Saab the pre-oiler mounted to the spin on oil filter fitting and then the oil filter fit on the pre-oiler.
 
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Old Aug 22, 2009 | 11:30 AM
  #20  
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Is that something that anyone has seen or done?
 
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Old Aug 22, 2009 | 05:22 PM
  #21  
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I recall once on my mustang the oil gauge would not register and would run very rough at start and then die. It turned out to be the oil pressure sensor. I think it was going into the fail safe mode and shutting down.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2009 | 12:48 AM
  #22  
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Good point Grant.

Hey Dan Mueller, did you try changing the oil pressure sensor. It's right on top of the HPOP rerservoir.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2009 | 09:08 AM
  #23  
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This thread sounds similar to your problem: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...e-at-idle.html

Don't know if it helps as he ended up replacing the motor, I guess.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2009 | 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by PaysonPSD
Good point Grant.

Hey Dan Mueller, did you try changing the oil pressure sensor. It's right on top of the HPOP rerservoir.
Unfortunately, I believe that his pressure sensor is functioning properly. His engine wouldn't stutter and die out due to an empty HPOP reservoir if it were getting plenty of oil, but the sensor wasn't registering.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2009 | 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by tdpower
If you are still havering to fill up the oil reservoir then I would suspect the ipr. I don't know for sure, but I imagine that there are some check valves in the system. I don't see that a cracked pick-up would cause the resevoir to be down but I have been wrong before.
Giving this case some thought, I have to agree with this.
Originally Posted by dmueller71
I haven't had to fill the resevoir manually for a while, just after it fires up first thing, if I don't rev it up right away, it will die. Then I have to crank it a bit to get it to go. Then it acts like there's air in the system ie. chugs and smokes. Trust me I would much rather not have to pull the motor, I'll see what happens tomorrow in the AM.
There has to be something in the system after the LPOP that is leaking oil pressure excessively. For me, the first thing that comes to mind is the possibility of one of the piston cooling oil jets have fallen out of it's place and is riding in the bottom of the oil pan. Where it was is now a very large hole for oil pressure to bleed off.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2009 | 10:22 AM
  #26  
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So if it's a cooling jet, I'm still pulling the motor. Here's my main issue. Money. Work has sucked, and I'm about tapped. I realize that pulling the motor is basically cost free, but what kind of price tag am I going to have to replace the pump and the pickup tube? I checked the level of the HPOP reservoir yesterday before the first start. I stuck a 2" stick in and the bottom 1" had oil on it. I still have the extra 2 qts of oil in it also. At startup, counted 1. 2. 3. and had pressure. No hesitation at all. I'm going to drain the pan back to normal today, and check it the same way in the morning. And no one has chimed in with an opinion about, is it worth the hassel at 226k? Like I said, there's no way I can afford to go through the whole engine.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2009 | 10:28 AM
  #27  
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One more thing that just caught my brain. I replaced the HPOp about a year ago. The problem started the same way, but I found the leak and problem was solved. When I replaced the HPOP, I lost the plug for the reservoir, so I found a bolt that fit and grabbed an o-ring from one of the oil plugs in my glovebox (from the oil crossover install) and have been using that as the plug ever since. There is a little seepage around the plug. That couldn't cause the level to drop could it?
 
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Old Aug 23, 2009 | 11:31 AM
  #28  
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If that plug has a leak it is going to be harder for the LPOP to build up the pressure.That is a special bolt and don't think I would use one you had laying around. It sounds like you are getting different results about the reservoir draining down? There should be check valves in the system after the LPOP. I also saw there is a oil regulator somewhere by the oil cooler or oil filter. Had a hard time finding much info on it though. It's kind of hard for anybody to give you advice on just running it. I'm pretty sure it would shorten the life of the engine by the symptoms you describe. You can get a lot of miles out of these engines if properly maintained.
 
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