Oil pressure issue
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 920
Likes: 7
From: Mazon, IL
Oil pressure issue
My second problem for the day is my oil pressure at start up. A little history, I had a problem with the HPOP resevoir draining overnight. So I would have several no start mornings where I had to pull the HPOP plug and manually fill the tank. I had the injector o-rings replaced, and it helped tremendously. Never a no start morning since. BUT, even though the system is holding enough pressure to start up in the morning, the guage will show no pressure for about 5 seconds or so, and if I don't rev it a little until I get the guage to read something, it will die, and potentially not restart without the manual filling of the tank. Any ideas?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
Likes: 14
From: Payson, AZ
A partially blocked or cracked LPOP pick up tube could also cause this problem. If you are close to and oil change overfill the crankcase before changing oil by about two quarts. If the pressure comes up right away then it may be a crack in the tube. By overfilling the oil level is above the crack and LPOP will build pressure much quicker. To give proper credit this idea came from Dan (KwiK).
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,111
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
A partially blocked or cracked LPOP pick up tube could also cause this problem. If you are close to and oil change overfill the crankcase before changing oil by about two quarts. If the pressure comes up right away then it may be a crack in the tube. By overfilling the oil level is above the crack and LPOP will build pressure much quicker. To give proper credit this idea came from Dan (KwiK).
I read somewhere on the 'net that the way to diagnose a cracked tube is to overfill the engine, then raise the rear end way up to cover the LPOP inlet.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
Likes: 14
From: Payson, AZ
That's why I gave you the credit. Thanks for the extra info about jacking up the rear. 
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,111
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Be sure and check the torque on the piston oil cooler jets, they are known to fall out on occation.
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Laughing Gas
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Hook it, I'll pull it.
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 15,037
Likes: 4
From: Grand Lake, La.
A bump to see how this goes. If the truck runs ok after you give it more RPM, I'm still thinking low pressure oil pump. I would think the truck wouldn't run with a hole in the pickup tube. 
. But I may be totally wrong on this.
. But I may be totally wrong on this.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 920
Likes: 7
From: Mazon, IL
Went out this morning and though it didn't take quite as many revs to get pressure as most other days, it still took a few seconds. But definately better. I'm not feeling too good about this.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,111
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Yeah, that's not right. It should have full pressure at the count of three, just idling.
At least that's what my truck will do.
Even when I change the oil, I don't pre-fill the filter like some advocate to be done.
Full pressure in about 5 seconds and never a hiccup or stumble.
At least that's what my truck will do.
Even when I change the oil, I don't pre-fill the filter like some advocate to be done.
Full pressure in about 5 seconds and never a hiccup or stumble.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 920
Likes: 7
From: Mazon, IL
So I guess either way, I'll be pulling the engine. When I was younger, I replaced main bearings in a corolla from under the car. We lifter the motor and put blocks between the mounts and had clearance to get the pan off. Is this possible for my truck? If not, for those of you that have pulled the engine, what kind of time frame am I looking at with air tools and never having done it before. Though, in my younger years, I could do an engine swap in my 76 Nova with a small block Chevy in about an hour and a half.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,111
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Only way to get the pan off without removing the engine is to cut the crossmember.
Some have done it, I never will, don't trust the structural integrety of the welded crossmember.
Besides, you have to have a bone dry sealing surface for the silicone sealer that is used as an oil pan gasket. If that isn't done properly then you will forever have an oil leak.
It will be sort of the same as your Chevy, but the turbo has to come off and the radiator has to come out.
And twice as big and heavy.
Some have done it, I never will, don't trust the structural integrety of the welded crossmember.
Besides, you have to have a bone dry sealing surface for the silicone sealer that is used as an oil pan gasket. If that isn't done properly then you will forever have an oil leak.
It will be sort of the same as your Chevy, but the turbo has to come off and the radiator has to come out.
And twice as big and heavy.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 920
Likes: 7
From: Mazon, IL
Yeah, I was reading quick's post about his situation up in AK. I guess if he can do it under those circumstances I shouldn't complain. So my next question is. With 226000 miles on it. Is it worth the hassel? What if I don't change it? I know the answer. Added wear at startup and potential for bigger problems if it goes completely. So then. With the fact that I'm flat broke, how much will this all end up costing me? And what else should I do when it's out?