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Nylon rod 7/16 diameter and 7/16 long worked for me. I just chucked up a piece of 1/2 dia nylon rod in the lathe and turned to 7/16 dia and parted to 7/16 long. Be sure you clean out all the old grease and bits of broken rollers and put in new grease. as mentioned by others you can get kits.
I replaced those plastic rollers before with 3/8 nuts(or app sized nut,rod ect), as long as the gear is not cracked, that fix works. I got my 89 wired for power windows ,motors and gearbox installed, they worked 2 times then had to fix them rollers, next day, stupid motor went out on pass side! Rotten luck...
I did the same fix on both of my windows... 2 years later and they will work without an issue!
I just bought an old 94 that needed some TLC, one of many things was the power window motor on the driverside. I could have rebuilt it but decided since I had it out, why not replace it with an ebay special. So I get the new motor and the freakin thing doesn't have any threads in the mounting holes. I thought the replacement would replace it and bolt right in. Has anyone else had this issue and made it work? Or did I just get a flawed or wrong motor?
...why not replace it with an ebay special{?}
...the freakin thing doesn't have any threads in the mounting holes.
That's why! LOL :)
BTDT a hunnerd times and once was -just tonight- with a new door latch.
{for the house}
It's better to tear into stuff and fix what you have because the chances
are... the new part isn't going to be the same as the old part. :/ If it can't
be fixed, that easy, at least you'll know how the stinkin thing works. Not
a total loss, see? :)
I put some nylon plugs in my '91 Bronco rear window mechanism and it
works like a champ, no drilling bosses or anything. ;-)
I'll have a spare power-window-mechanism here soon, going to swap
in a hand crank mechanism in on the driver's side window, so the '91
Bronco will be like a Freightliner. ;)
Anyway, enough of my BS, just drill and tap- the bosses.
Some of those window motors are mounted with 1/4 or 3/16 aluminum pop rivets you have to drill out to get the old motor out. Seems like on some I wrapped a piece of duct tape or double stick tape on my finger and stuck the nut on my finger so I could use a 1/4-20 screw. Its been a while but seems like I remember using pop rivets too. I bought some nut-serts for something like that too. Nut-serts are like pop rivets with nut threads.
I just bought an old 94 that needed some TLC, one of many things was the power window motor on the driverside. I could have rebuilt it but decided since I had it out, why not replace it with an ebay special. So I get the new motor and the freakin thing doesn't have any threads in the mounting holes. I thought the replacement would replace it and bolt right in. Has anyone else had this issue and made it work? Or did I just get a flawed or wrong motor?
Not to worry, the screws are self tapping. Just run them in.
Many replacement motors are not threaded and I don't think any of the OEM motors are.
Now that makes sence. Its been awhile since i repaired a window motor. I'm not all that fond of self tapping screws. I used 1/4-20 bolts and put nuts and lock washers. Had to use the sticky tape to hold the nut and washer on my finger. I've never been accused of doing it the easy way.
Now that makes sence. Its been awhile since i repaired a window motor. I'm not all that fond of self tapping screws. I used 1/4-20 bolts and put nuts and lock washers. Had to use the sticky tape to hold the nut and washer on my finger. I've never been accused of doing it the easy way.
Those self tappers have been holding Ford window motors in place since at least 1978. I don't think I've ever seen one break or a motor fall off. The way the motor mounts to the regulator there is no force applied to the bolts, they just hold the motor in place.
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