3k+ trip coming up, questions on tranny fluid and some other things to check
#1
3k+ trip coming up, questions on tranny fluid and some other things to check
I'm pulling my 24' race trailer down and back up the West coast in a month. I want to make sure I take care of anything that might leave me stranded. I just chipped the truck, changed my waterpump + complete flush, changed my coolant filter, and am doing my pads + rotors.
From my research, here's some basic service items that I need to do (and I have a questions on some of them).
Not sure where/how to check these.
What is the VSS, where is it located?
I'm assuming this is for 4WD? I have a 2WD
What's this?
Which system is this?
I am going to be replacing the transmission fluid + internal filter. Where can I buy the filter? Dealer? The How To I read states I can reuse the pan gasket, is this true? Should I just replace it while I'm in there? I have a 2000, do I have the 4R100 tranny?
Is this the rear diff? If so, what does "verifying the condition" of this oil entail?
Is this difficult?
Sorry for the barrage of questions! If there are any guys in Seattle/Redmond and wouldn't mind giving me a hand I could always use a hand. I have access to a shop in Redmond, WA.
From my research, here's some basic service items that I need to do (and I have a questions on some of them).
Verify carrier bearing is in good condition.
Any evidence of front hub bearings loose.
Any evidence of rear hub grease seal leakage.
Any evidence of rear pinion seal leakage.
Check differential level.
Any evidence of front hub bearings loose.
Any evidence of rear hub grease seal leakage.
Any evidence of rear pinion seal leakage.
Check differential level.
Clean any magnetic crud from the VSS.
Make sure both front hub locks are actually unlocked.
Check tow-in of front wheels.
Verify hydraulic system has fresh oil.
Verify no apparent transmission fluid leaks.
Verify condition of transfer case oil.
Insure drive shaft splines are greased.
Sorry for the barrage of questions! If there are any guys in Seattle/Redmond and wouldn't mind giving me a hand I could always use a hand. I have access to a shop in Redmond, WA.
#2
Maintenance
Carrier bearing is inside the rear end. If your rear end isnt howling when traveling down the highway it should be fine. If you have a 2 piece drive shaft, drop the rear portion by removing the 8- 8 or 9mm? bolts at the rear u-joint and slide the rear portion of the drive shaft off the front portion. Check you U-joint for play or tightness. No play and no tightness is what you want. Just smooth movement. Check the play in the center support bearing on the driveshaft. Clean the splines and use the Ford lube for the splines. I just use antisieze. Pinion seal is the shaft coming out the front of your rear end, do you see any oil dripping from that seal? You will probably see a wetness, which is normal seepage, just no dripping. Rear hub seals are at the end of each axle. Do you have any lube getting thrown around inside your wheels? If not, forget it. Checking the differential level, take a 3/8 extension and ratchet, remove the plug on the side of the rearend,(passengers side I think), and add fluid until it comes out the hole that you are filling it at. Front hub bearings, lift front end of truck, grab the top and bottom of tire and try to rock it in and out, should have minimal play, try right and left, should have minimal play. Have someone watch your tie rod ends while doing this to check them. They also should have minimal play. VSS is at the top of your rear end housing. This is your vehicle speed sensor. Remove the electrical plug on it, remove the 10mm bolt holding it down, and pull it out. You shouldnt see alot of crap on the magnet, and if you do you may want to remove the rear end cover for a better look, at which time you can check your carrier bearings properly, since they are under that cover. You dont have hub locks, yes on the 4wd trucks. Hydraulic system is your power steering, hydro boost, brakes, etc. Look in the tech folder on how to change this. Most people use synthetic trans fluid for the hydro boost flush. For the trans I would drop the pan, change the filter, which you can get just about anyplace, and make sure the o-ring around the top of the filter comes out on the old one, and lube the new o-ring also, snap the filter back into place, clean your pan gasket,(as long as its not cork or paper it is reusable) and reinstall the pan. Then follow the flush instructions in the tech area. I doubt you have a drain plug on your converter, but you can look and see. If so drain it also, its under the little inspection cover in front of the trans pan. You will have to use a large flat screw driver or pry bar and turn the motor over by hand while looking for a plug on the torque converter, but you shouldnt have a drain unless this is a after market converter. For trans fluid, I use Schaeffers. It does make the trans run considerably cooler. Yes, you have a 4r100, 5r110 started in 6.ohoh trucks. You dont have a transfer case in a 2wd. With these questions, are you sure you are comfortable doing this by yourself? It is simple maintenance, but you do have to know what you are looking at, such as, what is normal seepage and bearing condition is mostly by feel, unless it is obviously garbage. Toe in is your alignment, and you need to bring it to a alignment shop to check this. I would help you but I am 2000 miles away in Wi. Good Luck
Last edited by matty169; 08-17-2009 at 05:49 AM. Reason: more information
#3
Excellent reply, Matty. The only things I would add are that I used Syn Mercon V trans fluid for the tranny and my power steering flush. Ford released a TSB saying Mercon V is now compatible with our transmissions.
And if they try to sell you the "2WD trans filter" make sure the pickup foot is about 2" long on it. When I did mine, they sold me the one supposedly for the 2WD and it had about a 3/4" pickup. That's the wrong one -- had to go back to the store and swap it. I
And if they try to sell you the "2WD trans filter" make sure the pickup foot is about 2" long on it. When I did mine, they sold me the one supposedly for the 2WD and it had about a 3/4" pickup. That's the wrong one -- had to go back to the store and swap it. I
#4
Carrier bearing is inside the rear end. If your rear end isnt howling when traveling down the highway it should be fine. If you have a 2 piece drive shaft, drop the rear portion by removing the 8- 8 or 9mm? bolts at the rear u-joint and slide the rear portion of the drive shaft off the front portion. Check you U-joint for play or tightness. No play and no tightness is what you want. Just smooth movement. Check the play in the center support bearing on the driveshaft. Clean the splines and use the Ford lube for the splines. I just use antisieze. Pinion seal is the shaft coming out the front of your rear end, do you see any oil dripping from that seal? You will probably see a wetness, which is normal seepage, just no dripping. Rear hub seals are at the end of each axle. Do you have any lube getting thrown around inside your wheels? If not, forget it. Checking the differential level, take a 3/8 extension and ratchet, remove the plug on the side of the rearend,(passengers side I think), and add fluid until it comes out the hole that you are filling it at. Front hub bearings, lift front end of truck, grab the top and bottom of tire and try to rock it in and out, should have minimal play, try right and left, should have minimal play. Have someone watch your tie rod ends while doing this to check them. They also should have minimal play. VSS is at the top of your rear end housing. This is your vehicle speed sensor. Remove the electrical plug on it, remove the 10mm bolt holding it down, and pull it out. You shouldnt see alot of crap on the magnet, and if you do you may want to remove the rear end cover for a better look, at which time you can check your carrier bearings properly, since they are under that cover. You dont have hub locks, yes on the 4wd trucks. Hydraulic system is your power steering, hydro boost, brakes, etc. Look in the tech folder on how to change this. Most people use synthetic trans fluid for the hydro boost flush. For the trans I would drop the pan, change the filter, which you can get just about anyplace, and make sure the o-ring around the top of the filter comes out on the old one, and lube the new o-ring also, snap the filter back into place, clean your pan gasket,(as long as its not cork or paper it is reusable) and reinstall the pan. Then follow the flush instructions in the tech area. I doubt you have a drain plug on your converter, but you can look and see. If so drain it also, its under the little inspection cover in front of the trans pan. You will have to use a large flat screw driver or pry bar and turn the motor over by hand while looking for a plug on the torque converter, but you shouldnt have a drain unless this is a after market converter. For trans fluid, I use Schaeffers. It does make the trans run considerably cooler. Yes, you have a 4r100, 5r110 started in 6.ohoh trucks. You dont have a transfer case in a 2wd. With these questions, are you sure you are comfortable doing this by yourself? It is simple maintenance, but you do have to know what you are looking at, such as, what is normal seepage and bearing condition is mostly by feel, unless it is obviously garbage. Toe in is your alignment, and you need to bring it to a alignment shop to check this. I would help you but I am 2000 miles away in Wi. Good Luck
#5
#6
Excellent reply, Matty. The only things I would add are that I used Syn Mercon V trans fluid for the tranny and my power steering flush. Ford released a TSB saying Mercon V is now compatible with our transmissions.
And if they try to sell you the "2WD trans filter" make sure the pickup foot is about 2" long on it. When I did mine, they sold me the one supposedly for the 2WD and it had about a 3/4" pickup. That's the wrong one -- had to go back to the store and swap it. I
And if they try to sell you the "2WD trans filter" make sure the pickup foot is about 2" long on it. When I did mine, they sold me the one supposedly for the 2WD and it had about a 3/4" pickup. That's the wrong one -- had to go back to the store and swap it. I
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