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Took off the western mirrors and the base of what was a CB antenna in the B pillar. Below you can see what is left.
1. I know I need to cut a patch for the big hole to weld in.
2. The three holes around that patch are raised at the edges. So are they tapped down first and then filled in with a Mig? Then fill in the area with something like Evercoats Metal to Metal.
3. Those holes from the western mirror mounts. Do the same as the other three holes or just find some new stainless western mounts and continue with that type of mirror?
Yes, you can dimple the bolt holes inward slightly. Then, an easy way to fill them, is to slip a large nail or small spike through the hole from the inside, so the nail head is tight against the inside of the panel. Get out the MIG and weld around the nail, then grind off the remainder of the nail/weld smooth. You don't need to use a metal reinforced filler if you have already welded up the holes. I actually find that when people put reinforced filler in some spots, and regular filler in others, you have to be very careful when sanding the panel because different fillers sand at different rates, so one portion may easily become a low spot. To me it doesn't make sense to use that stuff at all on good solid panels.
Yes, you can dimple the bolt holes inward slightly. Then, an easy way to fill them, is to slip a large nail or small spike through the hole from the inside, so the nail head is tight against the inside of the panel. Get out the MIG and weld around the nail, then grind off the remainder of the nail/weld smooth. You don't need to use a metal reinforced filler if you have already welded up the holes. I actually find that when people put reinforced filler in some spots, and regular filler in others, you have to be very careful when sanding the panel because different fillers sand at different rates, so one portion may easily become a low spot. To me it doesn't make sense to use that stuff at all on good solid panels.
Hey, I like that nail idea. I'll have to try that. I usually just clamp a piece of copper behind the hole then weld it shut. The nail looks like it might be easier for many smaller holes as long as it's not a galvanized nail. I've heard those are kinda bad for you to weld....i.e. the fumes can really make you sick.
The nail looks like it might be easier for many smaller holes as long as it's not a galvanized nail. I've heard those are kinda bad for you to weld....i.e. the fumes can really make you sick.
just fyi. i'm no chemist but was told welding galvanized metal produces phosgene(sp). better known as mustard gas in WW1. pretty nasty stuff.
That is a great way to handle most of those holes. The ones' in the post are a different matter as you can't get behind them like the holes in the top of the door and the B pillar. I would guess you would have to insert from the outside and hold the nail head in the hole while welding around it to fill. I would like to get rid of these and use a regular mirror for stock. Oh, there are plenty of plain steel nails out there to use.
FWIW> I remember the old man talking about galavanized stuff being a problem. If this is correct, it's not deadly, but then there is almost always lead in it too. Ventilation and keep the fumes away. And it's not phosgene.
What ever happened to just building a weld patch? These holes are small enough that you could just build a weld patch and grind it down, then put on a thin film of body filler and be done with it. I do like the nail head option on the holes that are accessable from the back, never thought about that. Thanks for the heads up on that modeleh.
JRB65
FWIW> I remember the old man talking about galavanized stuff being a problem. If this is correct, it's not deadly, but then there is almost always lead in it too. Ventilation and keep the fumes away. And it's not phosgene.
FWIW> I remember the old man talking about galavanized stuff being a problem. If this is correct, it's not deadly, but then there is almost always lead in it too. Ventilation and keep the fumes away. And it's not phosgene.
Just as with most chemical exposures - welding fumes included - the concentration of the fumes and the exposure duration are the main factors regarding how much is too much; or in other words, hazardous to your health. Welding galvanized (zinc-coated) metals isn't recommended not only from the exposure factor but also it doesn't weld worth a crap! It'll spit and pop like crazy! If you were to grind off the zinc coating then you can eliminate both issues. However, regarding the example here of welding a few galvanized nail heads (if that is all you could do, since they don't weld well anyway as I mentioned), I highly doubt you'd make enough zinc fumes to give you Metal Fume Fever unless you were doing it inside a small closet!
Back in the day (common up into the 80's) there was concern regarding the production of Phosgene during the welding process, but it wasn't due to galvanized metal - rather it was due to likelyhood of residual de-greaser /cleaner left on the metal that was welded. The common industrial de-greasing solvents were Trichloroethylene (TCE) as well as Tetrachloroethylene (PCE) also known as Perchloroethylene or Perc. When these residual solvents are exposed to the UV radiation generated during the welding process their vapors can produce Phosgene (as well as other irritating and toxic gases) as a result of Photooxidiation.
PCE also gained 'fame' as the favorite solvent used by dry-cleaning companies to clean clothes with -- until PCE started to show up in their neighbors drinking water wells! The spillage and disposal of PCE into the soils around the dry-cleaners causing ground water contamination issues and major environmental cleanup issues into the '80s -'90s.
Yeah, I did some Environmental & Industrial Safety work in one of my past lives...
BarnieTrk
I also removed the big western mirrors. They had been mounted a couple times and stripped holes prompted the PO to just weld the bolt to the door. I have a bunch of holes to weld up. I really like the nail idea. Wish we had a hints and tips section that was stuck to the top for ideas like this. I plan to weld all the holes in the bed rail and the stake pockets also.
12 penny works real well for small holes and 8 penny for larger holes. Weld the nail head in small beads dont weld it full as this will keep the warping down. if you can use a gas torch or TIG to weld as this will allow the piece to be worked. MIG is a really hard weld and tends to crack when worked.
I flattened out one end of a 1/2 copper pipe. I then have someone hold this against the bolt holes while I rosette fill the hole from the top. Works great, the weld will not stick to the copper. Did all the holes in the roof from the cab lights that I eliminated. Little grinding, little filler and your done. The larger holes will need a patch. Pipe should be about 18-24" long anything shorter and your assistant will get hot hands.
Yes the hammered down end of an old chunk of copper pipe is also what I've been using for years. Eastwood and others sell small copper spoons with a fancy wooden handle, but sometimes there is a certain satisfaction of turning out professional looking work with backyard hillbilly improvising, the story of my life, though it doesn't always turn out professional looking.