7.3 idi any ideas
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7.3 idi any ideas
I have a 94 7.3 idi turbo with 169,000 miles. After bleeding the brakes I started it up and drove it around the yard, while it was idling the tack went to 0 and it started to run rough. with a good amount of back pressure. I checked compression I get 300-380 on all but one cylinder, the back cylinder on the passenger side has 240psi. I bought this truck about a month ago and it's ran good untill now. The guy i got it from said it sat for a while. I'm thinking rings or head gasket. Any advise would be helpful, is there anything else i should check before I pull the engine this weekend ? Any advise on rebulding and rebuilding parts location would also be helpful, what to watch out for or what not to do.
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Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Michigan
I have a 94 7.3 idi turbo with 169,000 miles. After bleeding the brakes I started it up and drove it around the yard, while it was idling the tack went to 0 and it started to run rough. with a good amount of back pressure. I checked compression I get 300-380 on all but one cylinder, the back cylinder on the passenger side has 240psi. I bought this truck about a month ago and it's ran good untill now. The guy i got it from said it sat for a while. I'm thinking rings or head gasket. Any advise would be helpful, is there anything else i should check before I pull the engine this weekend ? Any advise on rebulding and rebuilding parts location would also be helpful, what to watch out for or what not to do.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
bio-brad,
Welcome to FTE and the IDI diesel forum.
Tach sensor for that problem.
Do you know if SCA's were used in the coolant?
Stuck rings, head gasket or cavitation on the low compression on cylinder 7.
Welcome to FTE and the IDI diesel forum.
Tach sensor for that problem.
Do you know if SCA's were used in the coolant?
Stuck rings, head gasket or cavitation on the low compression on cylinder 7.
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I don't know if thay used SCA's. Tack senser had a bare wire fixed it. checked exhaust fuel filter and for any fuel leaks still runs like crap. I started with the extraction. Is it easier to pull with the turbo on or off?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
Pull engine with the turbo installed.
The only way to remove the turbo with the engine installed is seperate the turbo up pipe.
And most people have a bad time getting it to seal when it is reinstalled.
Remove the hood, fan, oil filter, accessories, wires uplugged, fuel lines removed, exhaust cross over removed, and pull the radiator.
Also consider you are going to slide the engine forward, start hoisting, then turn it about 45 degrees so the harmonic balancer clears the radiator support.
Very sturdy hoist because you are lifting about 1000 pounds high enough for the oil pan to clear the radiator support, and doing a lot of twisting and turning both on the out and in stages.
If you are using a portable engine hoist, I would seriously consider removing the radiator support, then you only have to go high enough to clear the frame and bumper, much safer option.
On my 4x4, that puts the bottom of the oil pan about 5 feet above the floor, that is a lot of weight up that high on an engine hoist.
My prefference for out the top is a chain hoist.
The only way to remove the turbo with the engine installed is seperate the turbo up pipe.
And most people have a bad time getting it to seal when it is reinstalled.
Remove the hood, fan, oil filter, accessories, wires uplugged, fuel lines removed, exhaust cross over removed, and pull the radiator.
Also consider you are going to slide the engine forward, start hoisting, then turn it about 45 degrees so the harmonic balancer clears the radiator support.
Very sturdy hoist because you are lifting about 1000 pounds high enough for the oil pan to clear the radiator support, and doing a lot of twisting and turning both on the out and in stages.
If you are using a portable engine hoist, I would seriously consider removing the radiator support, then you only have to go high enough to clear the frame and bumper, much safer option.
On my 4x4, that puts the bottom of the oil pan about 5 feet above the floor, that is a lot of weight up that high on an engine hoist.
My prefference for out the top is a chain hoist.
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Thanks for the info. The engine came out sweet with the turbo on. I took the heads off today head gasket looks good,valves and head looks good. the #7 piston has more slop in the bore than the rest, looks like rings I'll get the piston out this week and check it over. Right now I'm thinking rering kit, rod and main bearings and a gasket kit with a cylinder hone to boot. While I'm in there. Where can I get a good kit? One more thing the pistons have a spot on the top above the dish in the center where it looks like something eather hit it or burned it out. It's on all of the pistons, is this normal it's about 3/8" wide and .030 deep? Once again thanks for the info.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
Do you see what you are talking about on these pistons?
http://www.dps-performance.com/Ford/..._highboost.htm
http://www.dps-performance.com/Ford/..._highboost.htm
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