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You are the one needing reading lessons. He said and I quote
"Then started the truck and set it to 12bdc."
Not a damn word about that actually being the spec. I doubt 12° is spec since the computer is dragging the timing so far advanced. To much advance and they run like crap. You need some more experience, both with reading and engine tuning, plus recognizing that your elders and betters know a lot more than you do.
Ok let me reword it for you...a.k.a "The simpletons "
"It doesnt run good when the plug is in" didnt you read that?? LOL hahahaah
You resort to whining... ,
Elders doesnt always meen wiser, This is an example
I have been told in numerous posts that advancing it to like 12 degrees would yield better performance. It's currently set at like about 12 and 1/2 and with the plug in it runs at 30btc and it climbs father the more I rev it.
Ok let me reword it for you...a.k.a "The simpletons "
"It doesnt run good when the plug is in" didnt you read that?? LOL hahahaah
You resort to whining... ,
Elders doesnt always meen wiser, This is an example
Maybe but in this case it would appears so. At least I know how to spell a piddling little word like "mean".
ter is advancing the timing is what that says
"It doesnt run good when the plug is in" didnt you read that?? LOLhahahaah "
To paraphrase what that means is: "Doesn't run good when the computer is advancing the timing." Now who looks like a moron?
I have been told in numerous posts that advancing it to like 12 degrees would yield better performance. It's currently set at like about 12 and 1/2 and with the plug in it runs at 30btc and it climbs father the more I rev it.
So you believe everything you are told? Where was the timing set before you changed it with the Spout plug pulled out? Checking the timing with the Spout plug in tell you nothing, except what the computer is doing. From 20° with thw Spout in before you changed the timing, to 30° after you changed it tells me you were at about 2° initial to start with and it ran fine, I assume, because you did not say it ran poorly. So 10 extra degrees of timing makes it run poorly, PUT THE TIMING BACK WHERE IT WAS! This ain't rocket science.
So you believe everything you are told? Where was the timing set before you changed it with the Spout plug pulled out? Checking the timing with the Spout plug in tell you nothing, except what the computer is doing. From 20° with thw Spout in before you changed the timing, to 30° after you changed it tells me you were at about 2° initial to start with and it ran fine, I assume, because you did not say it ran poorly. So 10 extra degrees of timing makes it run poorly, PUT THE TIMING BACK WHERE IT WAS! This ain't rocket science.
Thats exactly what I said... LOL ...My only point was, Something made him adjust the timing in the first place, so if he had a starting point, he could adjust it, until it falls off. He knows 12 deg is to much... So retard it a little a ta time till it runs good.
You also missed the whole Meeen instead of mean thing.
Thats exactly what I said... LOL ...My only point was, Something made him adjust the timing in the first place, so if he had a starting point, he could adjust it, until it falls off. He knows 12 deg is to much... So retard it a little a ta time till it runs good.
You also missed the whole Meeen instead of mean thing.
Mean is a dual purpose word, there is no word spelled meen.
It was initially set at 10 degrees and someone even scratched a line alll the way across the 10 mark, I guess justifying stock setting?
I would still like to know, if your timing marks are steady. The reason is, 12 deg isnt unreasonable. 2 deg shouldnt make much of a difference. It seems there is more to this.
I would still like to know, if your timing marks are steady. The reason is, 12 deg isnt unreasonable. 2 deg shouldnt make much of a difference. It seems there is more to this.
Ok, I would go back where it was, if you still have a problem you may need to check your balancer, they have been know to slip. Easiest way is to pull #1 plug and fabricate a stop using and old plug and a 3/8" bolt. Knock out the center of the plug, cut off the side electrode and tap the shell for the bolt. Use a long threaded bolt and a hex nut. Put the shell in and insert the bolt with the crank a little before TDC, say 10 degrees. Put the bolt in till you feel it hit the piston. Mark the balancer with something you can easily see then carefully turn the crank backwards until it stops again. Mark the balancer again. Remove the stop, halfway between the marks is TDC. If it matches the existing 0 mark, then the balancer should be OK. if not, you need to replace it.
I called you a hick... and an ignorant one at that
The only hick is the one not able to spell. You must be ashamed of where you are from, no listing I see. I'm a Northwesterner, we don have hicks out here, that's for you Tennessee hillboys.