I agree Mark. I've always thought it was too low. My voltage output, even with a high output alternator is only 13.1-13.5. I can hear my FASS change "notes" every time the turn signals flash, and I have 8 ga. copper cable run from the battery to the pump. It never seems to be a problem though. I did lose my FICM recently, but I believe that was due to the inductive heat flash, which never seems to have saved my injectors. The FICM I borrowed from Matty169 has the buzz flash and the truck seems to start better and better every morning, but the injector still craps out til the truck warms up. At least it's not chugging to start. it's crisp again.

 

Check your FICM relay to make sure you are getting power. IF you are and that FICM came out of a truck that you KNOW was running and not just because some guy told you it was, then check the icp voltage to make sure you are achieving 0.80 volts at least when cranking, if you are then the concern is electronic. Obviously once you can pull codes it will be easier to pinpoint.

 

I just called International and asked them which one I need and they just looked it up but I did see part numbers on here somewhere amoung the few thousand pages I have read. Incidentally, the filters are the proper ones with the mesh over the primary rail mounted fuel filter. I check the pat # as well and of course they were international parts so it had to be right. AND ALSO, 1/2 the price then what Ford charges !!!!!!

Out of warranty I am afraid, by about 32,000 km.. wish it wasn't so ..

 

The reason I asked about fuel filters was that the International VT365 engine is their equivalent of our 6.0L. However, if you ask for fuel filters for the VT365, you will get the wrong ones. Instead you need the fuel filters for the VT275 (OR you just give them the part number 1847170C93).

My experience has been that International does not want to look up anything for you when you come in. Others have posted the same. This is why I was curious.

Anyway, it sounds like you got the correct ones.

 

Hello again.. So I received the autoenginuity scanner, hooked it up and got a p2285 code, ICP sensor. Anyway while I was waiting you may have read I got another used FICM from a running 04, installed it and it was a no go. So then I got a new ICP sensor because I heard they were problematic anyways so I thought, what the hell, might as well have one just in case I am out in the middle of nowhere and something happens. So after popping that in, still not running. As I mentioned, originally, with a tiny bit of ether, it would spring to life, that stopped working after the 3rd time. So now I am at a wall because I don't know what to do next exactly. Would my next step be pulling valve covers to look for leaks in the wavy manifold plugs or ? Anyone have any ideas ?

 

Hello.. How can I check the relay to make sure I am getting power. I know how to use a voltmeter and I have a very good digital one but if I pull the relay, then it will hopefully show power at the input terminal but how can I know if it is "clicking" and sending power through it to the FICM ?? Also, I don't know if you have read my update, I changed the FICM to one from a running '04 and it didn't work. Also once I got the code scanner it showed a P2285 ICP sensor, I put a new one of those in as well with no luck. Can you suggest another path to go down ? I guess I should check fuel pressure at the filter ? Could that prevent a start ? I know it's filling it up but I don't know what kind of pressure is behind it. The next step I think is to teardown the motor to get to the potential oil leaks, but maybe there's another thing I could do first to test some more. I was hoping the autoenginuity would give me way more info but it doesn't tell me what the ICP sensor is reading or any of that. Any help direction would be appreciated.. Thanks in advance.

 

Check voltage at the icp sensor while cranking, I assumed you already unplugged the icp sensor to see if it would start? Three wires to the icp sensor, one is 5 volt reference, one is ground, and one is the sensing voltage. Strip back the wire that is the sensing voltage and ck the voltage while cranking with the sensor plugged in. It should be at least 0.8 volts, if its not your pressure is too low, you have a leak somewhere or a faulty hpop or ipr.

 

yeah.. I already did that.. I unplugged it and no start. The harness was already upgraded too. I crank it over and the voltage jumps up. I did mention that in one of my posts. It went to 3.8 volts during crank, that's why I asked back then that if it jumps, wouldn't that indicate good pressure then ? Any suggestions of what to do next ?

 

You should NOT be seeing 3.8 volts during cranking. fyi

 

Ok.. during cranking.. what should be seen.. roughly ?

 

Did you get your AE yet?

 

Yeah I did.. the only thing that came up was a P2285, I was a little disappointed with the amount of information the AE reveals. I thought with the Ford plug in, it would give me a lot more. I already swapped out the ICP sensor when that fault showed for a new one and it didn't make any difference. Does anyone know which part actually stores the codes ? because I still have the replacement FICM in the truck, not my original.

 

Does AE give you live data, such as cranking volts, ficm vpower, sync, psi and duty cycles?

 

Hi, yes I finally got the AE to take the enhanced package that it needs to read all the powerstroke stuff, it's great ! Having said that, this is what I found.

ICP volts during crank 1.21 with 944.99 PSI
FICM logic power 10.00
Ficm main 47.50
FICM vehicle power 10.00
ICP regulator 34.38%
RPM 144
CMP AND CKP are in sync 0.00 ( I assume no )
FICM information for sync 0.00 ( I assume no again )
Mass airflow volts .42
Man abs pressure 13.99 PSI
camshaft position sensor status 1 ( bit )
# of fault codes pending 4 ( most of these seem to be related to non engine stuff like overhead trip computer, brake module etc ( all from low battery )
EGR valve position volts 0.80
EOT 86.77 Fahrenheit


I ran this many times and saw one thing that puzzled me, the camshaft position sensor and the crankshaft position sensor never sync. I am pretty sure I have a working crank sensor because RPM probably gets pulled from this. The cam sensor on the other hand, may not be working. I guess if this part doesn't sync then FICM can't sync and it's a no go. Any ideas ? Again I appreciate your help, it means a lot to a guy who's wheels aren't turning !

My issue other than what seems like low power, is no sync ever.. I am going to install 2 new batteries tomorrow, then also swap in my old FICM

 

Low voltage. Time for new batteries, and sync may come back. Try batts before changing ficm, and do a reset with AE if you can. If no start, then change ficm.