In case anyone is thinking about it, it can be done and is actually pretty simple. There are a couple things I did learn though.

1 - a double din unit will work, but requires some grinding and fabbing up a new din mount to hold the unit. I skipped this andf went with a single Din 7" LCD Nav/DVD/BT unit from Dual (xdvdn8190) It was free, so I figured I would put it in.

2 - you do not have to jump the factory amplifier. It accepts high-level (speaker level) inputs from the new radio. I tried using the low voltage RCA outputs, but they didn't work, so I guess you have to use the high levels. Only thing I can think is that ford used the same head unit in the mach and non-mach systems, and simply put the amplifier and subwoofer in line.

3 - don't forget to connect the new stereo's remote turn on wire to the amplifier, or you get no sound. I'd recommend a wiring harness that plugs into the existing factory wires - that makes it as easy as cake.

4 - there must be a cross over built into the amplifier that splits up the frequencies between the doors and the subwoofer. I've got my sub box out for a re-build, so now I have no bass.

5 - 6.5" round component speakers fit in the front doors, but need an adapter plate. I made mine out of 1/2" MDF, only took about 15 minutes to make 2 baffles. I used Clarion SRQ1620S's - sound great, and if anyone wants a new pair of front's, let me know. I've got an extra set that hasn't been out of the plastic yet. $60 shipped to your door

6 - the back doors are a whole different beast. The speakers sit much closer, if not right up against the door panel, so there isn't room to make a baffle for a different speaker. You are stuck with a 6x8, but the stock unit is really deep, so don't worry about mounting depth. (I'll bet it's at least 4" deep)

7 - fixing / replacing the subwoofer is a huge PITA, but you can actually get the entire box & amp out without completely removing the rear panel. The factory amp is rated at 85W RMS, which isn't terrible for a regular system. I picked up an infinity subwoofer with a 91db sensitivity and 100w RMS rating, so it should be fine.

The box rebuild will be later in the week, but basically remove the box, pull the speaker, CUT THE CONE out of the bottom of the box, and fiberglass the hole over. Once you have it apart, you'll see what I'm talking about. The "cone" reduces the depth of the box to about 4", which limits the subs you can get in there. if you cut & re-fiberglass the bottom of the box, you can get almost 6" of depth, so you can get longer cone excursion type subs which are usually more efficient. I'll have pics when my new speaker gets here.

Sorry, I didn't take any pics of the dash while I had it apart.