I need some tie rod ends for one of my rigs (a GMC if you must know). I was online looking at parts and at AZ there are two of them. 90 day warranty ($14) and lifetime warranty ($24) and the website shows the same pic for each. On the Rock Auto website there are a few Raybestos parts for $10 or less all the way up to $40-50 joints.

I called Rock Auto and asked them what the difference is and all the gal could say is that there is the "Service Quality" line and the "Higher quality" line.

When prodded she could not tell me what that means. Can anyone here tell me? What could be the difference in part quality? All fo these joints are greasable by the way.

 

Its common sense really. Its like Harbor Freight Tools, Craftsmen Tools, and Snap-On Tools. They all work but some of them are just made cheaper. I guess thats the easiest way for me to explain it. Personally, I go with what I can afford. I think it through and say "do I really need this or will it last for what I need it for?" I bought my suspension stuff from AZ and it works fine. Then again, I dont do any major terrain or anything. Its normal vehicle stress on these parts.

I hope this helps a little bit......?

 

Service Quality is Raybestes' lowest priced parts. Generally not servicable. Use and throw away.

Professional - middle in the road.

Advanced technology - most expensive.

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I recently did a complete brake job on my '78 using Raybestoes' professional line of parts. I'm satisfied with their quality. Much better than you'd get at Auto Zone or Pep Boys which are nothing but crap peddlers.

 

I appreciate the responses guys but what I would really like to know is "why" are they better? What about the part makes it worth the extra money? I for the life of me cannot figure out what would make one ball joint any better than another except if one was made bigger.

The tool analogy doesn't help much cuz I've used cheapo tools and can explain why they're cheap. The steel is not as hardened and if you have to really honk down on something the cheapo tool will just bend/break. Are you saying this about cheaper priced ball joints? That if I drive too fast or turn too sharp that they will bend or break?

And I must disagree about AZ. Napa is the place that sells junk.

 

Well, I dont buy Napa often. I work on tractor trailers and its either there or the actual companies. But AZ for cars all the way.

The metals they use are still metals, just cheaper. Same with the rubber boots, or maybe even the grease they put in em (from factory). But with the tool thing, Craftsman and Snap on both use metal wrenches right? But, its easier to break a Craftsman. The difference between the materials is just that theyre cheaper. I guess its like this. An AZ ball joint could use a grade 5 strength metal for the stud but one from Ford might use a grade 8 metal... Better? You can use either but if youre going to be doing some off roading where there is more stress on the points id go with a more expensive brand because it is probably made with harder metals and a better rubber.

Ok, I dont know. Im trying to explain it but analogies is all I got. Ha. Sorry man.

 

Everyone sells their low end parts. These low end parts are made cheaper with inferior materials, poorer tolerances, and thinner castings. Just compare a cheapie to a Moog ball joint and you'll see.

What you need to decide is how long you need this to last - which includes how difficult or pain in the rear the job is and what incidentals you'll need to redo with every future replacement (like an alignment when you do tie rods)...
1 yr, go ahead with the low end.
2-3, middle grade.
5+ go top tier.

Personally I won't buy any lowend suspension parts. After doing Inner tie rods (on an Olds Regency) two years in a row because they wore out in under 6k miles - I finally switched to an ac delco part and its still going strong almost 5 years later.

And now that I'm a little wiser, I wouldn't use any cheap part where 'might I die if it breaks on the highway' is true.

 

HI,

Here's a link to our ball joint section. Most of them do come with a grease fitting,and the quality of them is really good. The reason why they are good is that we use the best brands and our generic ones (in most cases) are made in the same factory as the brand name pieces.

If you do order them and for some reason do not like them,you can return them for a full refund,we'll even pay the shipping back to us.

Here's a link to the ball joint section on our website.

Ford Truck Ball joints

 

It's like the frames on our trucks. The guys with the '0x F-series trucks have higher or similar payload ratings, even with thinner steel in the frames. But those frames are made of a higher tensile strength alloy.

Generally, when it's from the same manufacturer, the higher cost is usually for better warranty coverage, and/or a higher grade of materials/machining.

 

i find these sentences hard to believe.

 

Just speakin from experience. Now there was a time when AZ was crapola, but that time has passed. I got so tired of returning Napa junk that I just usually buy the AZ llt stuff. I've never had to return any of that.

BTW, good stuff guys. Just wondering though. Do you guys know these things for facts or are you just assuming? Cuz all the stuff you guys posted about cheaper metals and stuff I've always assumed but never really knew for sure. That's why I'm asking here.

Popa Tim, thanks for your response and I'm hearing you. The tie rod end I just replaced on his rig is one I replaced years ago. All 3 others are still factory.

 

On the other end of the spectrum, I've never had to return a NAPA part. At the end of the day, go with what you are comfortable with.

 

I've found some middle ground. After repeat problems with starter relays for different vehicles, I won't buy them from Advance anymore, and go right to NAPA. For oil, I go where it's cheapest, or wherever I bought the filter. Usually for the car, that works out to be Advance, and for the trucks and tractors, it's NAPA. If we're talking brake rotors, it's NAPA all the way, and brake linings, I can get the middle grade at Advance for the cost of the cheap ones at NAPA, so I hit the former. If cost-quality is similar, I buy NAPA, because I know the people who own the store have a well established name in the community, and they're good people. Sometimes it even depends on who's working at either place on a given day. A few of the guys who work part time(or just rarely there when I need something) at Advance can sell me anything I'm looking for, because they really know their stuff.

As a basic rule, though, if it takes electricity, and it isn't a lightbulb, I shy away from Advance, with the exception of rebuilt starters and alternators for my trucks. And if I need bearings, I don't go to either place, because there's a shop here that focuses on farm and fleet stuff, and carry good bearings at a good price, and can look up about any application you'd ever need, no matter how obscure.

 

OK guys here's why I asked this Q.

First I go to AZ and have 2 choices, a $14 part with 90 day warranty or a $24 part with lifetime warrantly.

Then I go to the Rockauto website and they have a $8, $14, 23, 32, 45, 56 part and one of them comes with a free backpack.

so I'm sitting here asking myself do I get the $56 part and rest assured that I have the highest quality part available or is it somehow possible that the $23 part is the same thing in a different color box? Or maybe the $8 part is the same. Now imagine what I was going through when considering the free back pack.

Then 1ATony explains that their Moog and non-Moog are the same with different names.

So I'm sure you can all see my dilemma. I would really like to know how to make the best use of my dollar. I definitely don't want to do this stuff every year but I also don't want to pay $50 for an $8 part. I was just hoping someone could pipe in here that they actually know for a fact why there's such a disparity in costs.

 

There are three places to not be cheap with a vehicle that sees anything but incredibly light use:

Tires/wheels.
Brakes.
Steering.

Then, depending on mechanical proficiency, and the facilities you have to work with, some repairs are more of a pain in the *** than others. Generally, I'd suggest buying the best parts you can lay down the currency for at the time.

Unless you're selling it right away, then do whatever you want, but be HONEST when you sell it.

 

At AZ, the $14 and $24 part are EXACTLY the same part..........You are just paying for the lifetime warranty vs. the 90 day warranty.