So are you saying that you base what is best by the cost? I have found that to not always be the case. Cost is driven more by quantity then quality.

 

No, cost isn't the only factor.

But, if I go to Advance, and decide I want Wearever brake pads, I'm going to get the LT gold grade, not the silver grade, since I use my truck for a lot of hauling, but it's a stick, so I use the tranny to slow me down, too, so I don't need the highest tier of the same brand. Within one brand, the higher cost unit GENERALLY is a higher grade of material, or a better grade of service. It's just like going to the welding shop/hardware store, and buying grade 8's instead of grade 5's when I replace leaf spring hangers.

 

I hear what you're sayin Gunny, but y'all keep saying the same thing and that is:

"the higher cost unit GENERALLY is a higher grade of material"

Now in most cases the costs are so close that it doesn't matter a whole lot. But in this case the differences are huge. I was just askin here in case someone could actually tell me for sure. 1ATony did say that their Moog and non-Moog are the same. I checked his site and the difference is $20. Now if that's the best info out there I'll take it. But if I can know that the $8 Rockauto part is the same as the $50, then I'd rather take that.

You mentioned grade 5 vs 8 bolts. I understand that lingo and can make a sound decision on something like that. That's the kind of info I was looking for here. The thing is, I've been lookin all over the internet and can't find any info like that. It's when I hit that wall that I come here. There's usually someone who has some inside info.

 

Well. I dont think there is really a way to answer it besides the way everyone here did so heres the idea: Go out and buy the cheap ones. When they break, depending on how and when they broke, go get the more expensive ones. This is the good old fashioned experience it for yourself dilemma.

 

There isnt a justification to paying large amounts of money for a quality part in the aftermarket. Warranty is usually the best thing to look for, the better the warranty the more likely the manufacturer of the part is willing to stand behind a failure. Typically, warranties are assigned based on a failure rate that the manufacture has assigned for a said lot in its factory. They will pull one part out of a lot, perform the necessary stress tests then assign a probablity of failure rate to a part based on some statistical probability. So you could get two very same looking parts from the same manufacturer that have two very different failure rates assigned to them.

Every metal you work with today is some type of alloy of iron and other materials to lesser extents. One example is mild steel, stainless steel, and high carbon steel, to some extent the metal you have worked with on these vehicles in some fashion or other. With the exception of stainless steel, you could not tell the difference in high carbon steel, mild steel, and high boron content steel without working with them for extensive times. But, they all have different wear rates/fatigue rates based on what they are used for in there service life. Just because a metal has alot of thickness, doesnt mean it is good steel that will wear forever. It is what was added to the smelted iron during the steel making process that determines the quality of the steel. And there are steels available that are better for certain taskes than other steels, and sometimes in order to make up for the lacking quality of the steel, a manufacturer will actually add more steel in an effort to reduce fatigue rates.

Typically, the best part is the OEM part, but the price is usually enough to make you choke. So my thoery usually goes, get the best possible warranty that I can live with for the cheapest price I can pay. Then I determine just how vital this part is to making me and others on the road SAFE. Usually if the warranty is very extensive, the manufacturer has someone fairly willing enough to drive a vehicle that depends on this part.

 

And yet, if I'm going to put new ball joints(or any other part that directly helps me keep from killing myself, my passengers, or--to a MUCH lesser extent--the idiot who's tailgating me), I'm going to buy the Moog, and not make a mook out of myself down the road.

By all means, buy the cheap plugs and wires, use Dollar General oil, and heck, even suspiciously remanufactured SRS control units from the cheapest source possible. Worst you'll end up doing is having to do more repairs, or get yourself killed, but if you're buying tie rod ends, don't buy the cheapest thing you can find on the internet.

 

Quicklook,

No kidding! Those two sentences are simply jaw-dropping in their ***-backwardness!

I mean, I admit that at first I thought he was kidding, but then I read the rest of the thread.

Where do you even start with someone who is so...inexperienced?--as to believe that Autozone sells good quality and "Napa is the place that sells junk."???

Maybe he's a really young person?

My last experience buying a real part from Autozone was when they sold me an allegedly "new" Modine radiator, when in fact it was a leaky, poorly-repainted radiator that was, at best, poorly "rebuilt" and, at worst--merely REPAINTED. But it came in a new Modine box! LOL (The paint boiled off almost immediately, simultaneous to the radiator leaking badly, and AZ took it back, refunding my money. And I got to do the job TWICE, the second time with a NAPA-sourced radiator.)

OTOH, I have never had bad service from NAPA, nor do I recall ever having to return a NAPA part due to a quality issue....

Plus, the people behind the counter at NAPA:

a) are NOT pimply-faced high school students with a blister-pack-modded, slammed ricer in the parking lot and:

b) they know VEHICLES, and not just PART NUMBERS.

And they're old enough to know that "a set of points" is not just something on the front of a high school girl's shirt....

Here's a clue for anyone wondering whether NAPA or AZ sells better parts:

Look at the customers: in AZ, you find homeowners, "kids" and casual DIY-ers.
In NAPA, you see professionals (the ones with the dirty uniforms?) business-owners, adults and knowledgeable enthusiasts.

Qman--you've been given some good answers to your questions.

Best of luck.

 

Well said. After buying parts for years, you will learn to spot sketchy parts and choose wisely. I have bought my share of junk and I've learned from my mistakes and I don't buy parts made buy companies I'm not familar with. As far as ball-joints go, here is a list of the only manufacturers I would consider:
1) Ford (or other OEM)
2) Spicer
3) Moog
4) NAPA

 

The only time I go to Auto Zone is when I know what im looking for. If I dont know, I dont want them telling me. Ive had too many problems getting what was in their computer, it being the wrong thing, needing the other listed one and them tell me "its not for your vehicle." Too bad everything for theres is general and bolt on. As for Napa, the one here is a big family owned one and its wonderful. The one I went to in Florida was horrible and it wasnt even worth my time. I wasted more time waiting for the guys at the counter to get off the phone or stop playing with the computer, then, I cant look at thread and know what it is so id hand it to them and hed be like "what is this?". It all depends on what youre looking for.

 

I will agree that some of them are not that great. I personally don't think the quality of all A'zone parts is bad. It was the only place I could find a few years ago that had a new power window motor with a lifetime warranty. Ever place else had remanufactured ones. The price was also good since it was almost 20 bucks cheaper. The part is made by Siemens which is probably the company that made the OEM one. My OEM blower motor is made by them.

 

HI Gman,

I replied to your PM. I'm unsure of who manufactures some of our competitors parts, and will not comment on whether or not they're good or bad.

If there are any other questions about what we have to offer,I'd be more than happy to help anyone on the forum out.

All of our parts are in stock and ship out the same day if ordered by 3PM eastern time.

I thank all of you guys for the support you have given us,

Best Regards,
Tony Marchand
1A Auto Parts
1-866-403-3393

 

^^^^^^^^^are you running for fte office?

 

Can I represent the hard working blue collar guys.

 

only if you get elected.

hahahahaha

 

You know, I come here for help . . . cuz I typically get some really good help. I thank all of you who have contributed as best they can. Then this ahole pipes in. You know, if you have nothing to offer then just keep your trap shut. You know what's asinine? You're idiotic statement.

I have 6 vehicles, all over 100Kmi, 2 near 200 and maintain them all myself as I have done since I was 16. I know what I'm doing, I'm no idiot and I'm speaking from experience. About half the junk I've ever bought from Napa has had to be returned. Try spending half a day digging a rack and pinion out of a Ford Taurus only to put in a new Napa one that lasted 20Kmi. The AZ replacement is still going strong after 30. The thing that really bugs me about Napa is that just about every counter guy is uppity for some reason. I find that absolutely hilarious. Here's a parts counter guy who for some reason thinks he's above his customer when in fact he knows nothing about me. Needless to say, I hate Napa and only go there when there is no other choice. There was a time that I avoided AZ like the plague. No longer though. I've never had to use their warranty for anything other than brakes. And we're talking close to a million miles collectively on numerous rigs.

Again, thanks to all for trying to offer up some help. For those of you who'd prefer to use condescending quips, shove it.