Usual suspects:
1. Tie rod ends
2. Idler arm

 

When I said to adjust the steering box, I was only going by the experience of checking all other functions of the steering gear, and when the last option is the adjustment. I have done this in the past, with good results. I would never lead someone to try a fix, not knowing the a) results, or B) mechanical knowledge of the recipient.

 

I'd been all over the front end looking for play. Had the alignment checked a time or two. For me it was the last option. Well, maybe next to last, with the last being replacement of the box. I've spent many an hour under the truck and my daughter's Explorer. I appreciate your concern, Dan at the thought of sending a stranger into deep water. I would starve as a mechanic, but I have been doing most of the maintenance on my cars for a few decades and know what I don't know. I respect the opinions and advice offered on this forum and the one for Explorers.
Thanks!
Joe

 

My experience with ford trucks tell me to look at suspension first. If the shocks aren't doing their job at the front, you can be replacing parts for days looking for looseness in the steering.

Did you say if you replaced the shocks?

 

To adjust the steering gear box mesh load and get the proper feedback you need to us an inch lb. dial type torque wrench.

With no fluid in the gear box and the Pitman arm disconnected.

1) Turn the steering wheel 45 degrees from the right stop.
2) Attach a torque wrench to the steering wheel nut and determine the torque required to rotate the shaft slowly approximately one eighth turn towards center from the 45 degree position.
3) Turn the steering gear back to center and determine the torque required to rotate the shaft back and forth across the center position(+- 90 degrees).

Vehicles with 0-5000 miles.

Verify Torque specs.

Adjust if mesh load measured while rocking input shft gear over center is less than 15 inch lbs. or greater than 25 inch lbs.

Adjustment

Set torque measured rocking across center to a value of 14-18 inch lbs. greater than that measured 45 degrees from the right stop.

Vehicles with more than 5000 miles or where sector shaft has been replaced.

Verify Torque specs.
Adjust if mesh load measured while rocking input shaft gear over center is less than 7 inch lbs. greater than the torque 45 degrees from the right stop.

Adjusment

Set torque measured rocking across center to a value 10-14 inch lbs. greater than that measured 45 degrees from the right stop.

 

My 90 f350 has a 2 piece steering shaft, the lower part connects to the box,and just slides into the shaft. It's one size square from the box into a larger square , to make it adjustable. This is where mine was getting the slop.

 

This will help immensely. I supposed that it was more than just torquing the adjustment to some range of values. I REALLY wanted to drain the power steering system any way! Now I have the perfect excuse to get dirty.

Thanks!

Joe

 

I pull my race car ( now totalled) and my boat and need to replace the lower steering shaft. Lots of play now so did you replace or just adjust?

 

I had bought a '75 Ranger F-250 down in Texas some years ago to help carry my belongs back UP here and it had a scary wander to it. The rag joint was shot so I replaced it. Put it in a shop and had kingpins and tie rods replaced. It handled somewhat better but still not good. A friend told me about the wormgear being notorious for causing this condition. I adjusted it in increments until I was happy with the results. End of problem.

 

here's a bump for an old but a good thread. Thanks for the help guys. I too adjusted the steering rack (or whatever its called in these trucks) and it feels so much better to drive.

 

Sweet. Glad it helped. I dont know why so many people say dont touch it. I tightened it in both my trucks and it made a huge difference and its free!

 

i agree, i never have a problem adjusting mine. if it starts to feel funky, just back off a little on the screw. if its done in small increments, its also usually reversible.