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The Long Journey Begins (long post with pics)

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  #601  
Old 08-21-2012, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by OldStyle
Mike

What will you be using to replace the foam used inside the air box's; for lack of a better term? The stuff used to seal around the condenser/heater core and control doors. IIRC what they used at the factory isn't available. Not doing this myself but the question came to mind. Thanks! Looking good as always!
Your picture folder must be a separate hard drive....
Thanks OldStyle.
I lucked out, the new evaporator came with most of the seal material, you can see it in the picture of the evap. As for the heater core, I'm going to try foam weatherstripping and see how that works. If it doesn't, I'll drop back and punt, then figure something else out.
I got lucky on the damper doors. The foam that seals them is usually so far gone it literally falls of. All of mine are still soft and pliable.
I'm going to have to fab the gaskets for where the evap housing and and air distribution box bolt to the firewall. All I need to do is get a sheet of 1/4" foam and go at it, shouldn't be a big deal.
 
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  #602  
Old 08-21-2012, 04:26 PM
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Finally some progress on the Pumpkin! I've been waiting for this for AGES!

Love your build Mike, always gives me inspiration to keep chugging along with mine.

"Factory"
 
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Old 08-29-2012, 09:49 AM
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Here's an update on my A/C rebuild. I ran into a couple of snags in the process. The heater core I ordered, while it physically fit and would work, it wasn't built like the original and I wouldn't be able to use the wrap-around gasket that I wanted to reuse. So I looked around and ordered one that was built like original.
Another snag that I ran into will take a little bit more to fix. While the Pumpkin's wiring harness was untouched and in great shape, the same can't be said for the donor truck. Not only has it's harness been hacked pretty good, it looks like Ford used some undersize wire in the A/C system. Some of the wires and a plug actually overheated to the point of melting!
The harness that supplies power to the compressor (D5TZ-19A885-A) had been repaired several times from the looks of it. I searched and finally found one place that said they had one. Contacted them, they had it....at one time, not any more. I wish these places would update their inventory. So, back to square one. How do I fix this? I WILL NOT use crimp on connectors on the Pumpkin, period! I found a company that can supply, not only the correct color coded wire in bulk lengths but they also have the correct blade lock terminals. So I'm going repair the harnesses myself. One thing I'm going to do is replace the 14 ga. wires that overheated with 12 ga.
Here are some pictures of the A/C overhaul so far. The first pair is a before and after shot of the guts of the evaporator housing.
The last two are the melted blower switch plug and the fubarbed wiring.
EDIT: Just want to clarify a point. When I said I won't use crimp on connectors, I was talking about the crappy ones you get at the auto parts store. The factory terminals are also crimp on and that's what I'll be using.
 
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  #604  
Old 08-29-2012, 10:44 AM
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I've got the same problem with the shape of the new heater core.
Makes me glad I spent so much time keeping the old gasket in one piece.
Oh well.
Really admire your tenacity with sticking to the original/better way to put it back together.
 
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Old 08-29-2012, 01:39 PM
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Mike makes us all look bad!
 
  #606  
Old 08-29-2012, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by keiths78f150
Mike makes us all look bad!
I agree
 
  #607  
Old 08-29-2012, 04:09 PM
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One step forward two steps back..... Thankfully you have "some" time to make the proper corrections! Upgrading to 12g wire should help prevent that wire from overheating again so maybe it was meant to be....

Thanks for the update pic's!
 
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Old 09-08-2012, 04:18 PM
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Mike, your project's looking really good. Gives me hope since I just got a hold of my g-pa's rusty and broke down '77. Keep up the awesome job!
 
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Old 09-08-2012, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by JonG87
Mike, your project's looking really good. Gives me hope since I just got a hold of my g-pa's rusty and broke down '77. Keep up the awesome job!
Thanks and welcome to FTE, there are a lot of good, knowledgeable people here more than willing to help answer any questions you might have.
 
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Old 09-08-2012, 08:46 PM
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Thanks, I've actually got a few pics of it on my profile. Cleared out the shop today to make some room for the cherry picker and engine stand. Gonna try to start it up tomorrow (no battery yet) to see what noises it makes, then start my project by pulling off the front clip. I'll definitely be picking your brain since we've got similar year models, if that's alright. Thanks again.
 
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Old 09-08-2012, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by JonG87
I'll definitely be picking your brain since we've got similar year models, if that's alright. Thanks again.
Not sure how much I have left up there , but you're welcome to pick away .
 
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Old 09-10-2012, 03:47 PM
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Mike, do you have any pix on how the original brackets, pulleys and belts attached to the engine ? I have a the complete set off mine in a box and want to get the AC working again. Havent made up my mind yet as the best way to continue, original or a retrofit with a sanden. Trying to decide on refrigerants as well and what if any components to replace. Any help would be appreciated
 
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Old 09-10-2012, 04:07 PM
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Here you go Bama.
The first picture is minus the three groove crank pulley and belts.
The Sanden A/C compressor mounts in the same location as the original York. It also uses the original mounting bracket with an adapter bracket bolted to it.
 
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  #614  
Old 09-10-2012, 05:53 PM
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Looking good Mike!

What's that on the front of the truck? The metallic bar that connects both sides of the frame. Looks like an old school sway bar?
 
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Old 09-10-2012, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Aaron-71
Looking good Mike!

What's that on the front of the truck? The metallic bar that connects both sides of the frame. Looks like an old school sway bar?
That's exactly what it is..

Look at the very left/bottom of this pic, you can see the end just outside the frame..
 


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