This info is over-my-head, I think I speak for quite a few when I say we want the bottom line so we can decide what to do. What are the opinions out there?

 

Here's what I plan to do after careful thought and research...#1) gauges (either Edge Insight -multiple PIDs one device-keeps grab handle or multiple analogue electronic sensor- traditional but more costly and more work). #2) SCT tuner...best tuner for our engine and especially the Torqueshift tranny...most likely will add the custom tunes that will eliminate EGR values...ultimately no CEL...you have an '03, so this shouldn't be a concern for you, but I'd get it that way anyway. and...#3 EGR delete...either a kit and DIY or get a competent local diesel repair shop to put either their kit in or your aftermarket kit...most local diesel shops know about deleting the EGR cooler, so sometimes you make out better having them perform the delete with their kit. One local shop by me uses Elite Diesel's kit and performs the delete for $500.

 

this is gonna be fun...
Iat: will not change from its readings as that is part of the MAF
Iat2: wich is in the intake will not show a fluctuation the way it shoud as this isthe monitor for egr flow. but it will read the correct temp.
Map will read the correct intake pressure... the reason is if this is wrong boost value is also wrong. the calc the pcm uses for boost is.... MAP - BARO = BOOST.
now for for the egr valve both egrv,egrdc#,egrg,egrtp.
egrtp will not change as thats just a throttle plate and only on 03-04my
egrdc# will be incorrect if the valve and set to default
egrv will read correctly 5volts (a value that will set the mil with out of test range)
egrg egr gauge pressure is a calc value from I THINK it equals egr - baro and it would also read incorrectly
Eot will also read correctly
ebp will also read correctly as this is just a pressure pid.
so in short any valve that still reads correcltly will be what is really there to check for system operation and it will fail and set the cel.

now what we didnt cover is what I find to be a little interesting...
the egr is there to reduce NOx wich happens at temps above 1500 degrees f.
so that should also equal an incress in cyclinder head pressures. as we should all know that when temp incresses pressure will also incress.

 

Trying to follow along - there is a lot of great information here.

So far it is apparent that deleting the EGR is going to throw off the computers inputs and possibly calibrations. Whether, it can compensate using other input values or not I think remains to be answered..?

But here is my question...What about simply disconnecting the EGR - or disconnecting in conjunction with the delete kit (I realize there will be codes) - the reason being that the open circuit at least lets the computer know that the EGR is not working and it can go about its thing using other values? (I have had mine disconnected for some time including heavy towing with no noticeably bad results.)

Clint

 

it has been proven to work. the thing at hand is what is the final result of and the long term effects. also to discuss the negitive side of just deleting stuffs and never fixing the root of the problems

 

Cheezit,

Whaaaaat??

 

As I posted already I am new to 6.0LT and will be getting my F-350,2006,Auto,EC,2WD in 3 weeks.
Mean time I started reading to get familiar with it.
It is completely stock and I will be using it only to pull my 5W in summers (plus some side trips)
I have no intentions to play with it just do ALL the necessary maintenance and do things to prevent future damage.
I was advised to add Oil By pass,Coolant filter and Gauges(which I will do when I get the truck) but have no idea what to do about EGR it might be because I do not understand the mechanical terms and abbreviation.
Please advise on the matter and add your thoughts on what gauges are need to install (please in "normal" words).
Thank you.

 

Hello Dan,right up front I don't know 1% as much as the gentalmen having the discussion. I will however offer you a few tips I have picked up along the way. Oil tempature(eot) and coolant temature(ect),fuel pressure are the 3 must have guages and other guages are good to have because origional in dash guages are not very accruate. The exhust gas recirculation(egr)system is the#1 subject of debate regarding our trucks,therfore there is no right or wrong answer what to do about it. Install the bypass filters(no one feels they hurt,and most think they help)ditto for guages. Do searchs and read thru tech files on the subject then decide what's in your best interest. Meanwhile this discussion is by some very talaented and forward thinking indivuals about the subject far more advanced than I can talk about. Best of luck with your new diesel. Keep reading and enjoy,it will all come togather for you. Hey fellers,thank you for taking this egr thing out of the box. Great stuff even though it's making my whiskers grow faster trying to keep up.

 

i don't know how many times i have read about the EGR deletes. my situation, cooler cracked 4 months after i did a coolant filter. i didn't have the money to replace so i made my own delete (works great by the way). immediate change in boost. the truck would only boost to 22 to 23 pounds. purchased a tuner from ID with the delete programs and no change in boost. racked my brain for many months trying to figure out what is wrong. finally said to hell with it. truck runs great. did notice i needed to replace my boots. maybe they are leaking. also, at wide out throttle my boost gauge will bouce sometimes. gauge is plumbed into the intake elbow. my truck is a 2005.

 

Thank you da-bees for your post,but bottom line a do not know what to do regarding ERG at this point...
Please spell it out for me (what to buy and how to install).

 

Dido what Dan said. What should we do? In my case my orange coolant hose, to EGR cooler, leaks.

 

In regards to coolant, what type do you use, how much do you need? Cost? If you replace the coolant more frequently, would it reduce the risk of rust and many othee problems?

 

so far as the orange hose leaking thats an easy fix. the part is like $35 and sold by itself. there is no need to remove anything but the tube itself to change it. ford pays us 1.0 for the job. Cp time is between 1.5 and 2 hours plus coolant.

and what type of coolant.... motorcraft gold.

not only changing the coolant but flushing the cooling system is the issue. you can only get so much of the silica (what is often mistaken as casting sand) by a simple drain and fill. also the use of flushing with vc 9 (iron remover) is also helpfull in preventing the chemical fallout wich porduces the silica.

 

But should I replace the orange hose, or should I delete the EGR?

 

I would just install the 35 dollar part. its far cheeper then the cooler delete. there is an updated hose thats been around for a few years now and is doing much better then the orange one.
that little tube by the way is just the coolant supply. if the cooler fails you will see lots of white smoke out the tail pipe and your heater wont work.