(I've read many of the posts here but haven't come across this particular issue. Not to say it's not here but I've not found it!)

Spankin new F250 (2002) 5.4 auto 4x4 and less than 700 miles I'm thinkin about switching it to synthetic. Should it be done ASAP OR go ahead and run this oil 3-4000 miles then change over? Anything I need to be careful of such as filter brands (I already know to stay away from Fram!) should I just stay with Autolite filters?

Thanks for the input, it is appreciated...

DaleL

"Let it snow, let it snow, let it snow!" (We ain't gettin any YET!) :-(

 

If it was my truck, I would let it go all the way to the time for the first oil change.

Here's my reason: In the 'Diesel' forum there is a forum member who works for the engine manufacturer. He has posted that Ford adds a break-in additive to the initial diesel engine oil fill. (My apologies to Joe if I miss-quoted him).

If the gasoline engines come with a similar addive in the factory fill, I would follow Ford's oil drain interval to make the most of it. Even if they don't, I can't see that a few thousand miles with petroleum oil is going to make a huge difference in the longevity of the engine.

 

I would leave it in at lesat for a couple thousand miles. I don't hink gasoline engines use a break in additive, but the usual magazine article says that the dino oil allows just the right amount of friction to allow the engine to break in or polish the moving parts. If you go to synthetic right away, some magazines and peole have said the engine may not break in properly and you will have oil consumption problems.

Of course several engines come from the factory with synthetics, the Corvette for example, so I am not sure that the dino oil break in is an issue. Still over the life of the engine, a couple thousand miles of dino isn't going to hurt anything.

I have always waited until the first oil change, usually 3,000 miles.

Jim Henderson

 

I would change to synthetic now if it was me. Due to tighter tolerances of modern engines and better oil grades, break in is not as big of a deal anymore. It is true that several cars come from the factory with synthetic, such as the Viper, Vette, Porsche, and Mercedes.

As for filters, you have stated all you need to know. Stay away from Fram!

Aaron D.
'94 EB Bronco 4x4, 351W, E40D
'97 Expedition XLT 4x4, 5.4L

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 04-Jan-02 AT 08:55 PM (EST)]Just keep one thing in mind. Make sure the oil meets Ford's new specs. If you're considering Mobil 1, well it doesn't (yet). Read your manual AND the back of the bottle. Don't trust the oil change monkeys. Know what you want BEFORE you change it. And switch to synth at your next change if you want...course if it were me I'd change with dino at 3K and then switch to synth at 4K...JMHO.

 

Jim Henderson is correct as far as my engine builder is concerned.The first 3000 miles must be run on dino oil for a proper break in. The syn. oil is too slick and does not allow the rings etc. to seat correctly, after 3000 miles my builder said run anything I wanted . He suggested straight 30 weight to break in my 71 300 six.I now run Valvoline syntex with great results.
"bowties in the rearview mirror"

Just my 10 cents worth!

 

I would wait until at least 6,000 miles if this is a mild performance everyday driver. You want to make sure the break in is done thoroughly. It probably won't hurt at 3,000 but neither will running dino oil until 6,000.

 

See the last paragraph for your answer.

What Makes Synthetic Oils Superior To Conventional Crudes?
By Bob Savasta: Motor Magazine, February 2000

What makes synthetic oils superior to conventional crudes? And do those benefits justify the product's higher cost? We take to the chem lab to find out.
A Slippery Situation A longtime customer of ours came into the shop this past week for his first oil and filter change on his new Chevy Malibu. During the writeup, he asked my opinion about the use of synthetic motor oil in his new engine. I explained that while synthetic oil did have some superior benefits as a lubricant, I had some reservations about, using the stuff in a new motor, especially with regard to the problems I've heard concerning main seal leakage and piston ring break-in. Are these real concerns and, if not, what are the real advantages of using a synthetic motor oil that would justify the product's higher cost? Mike Morgan, St. Paul, MN

Before I address your specific concerns, Mike, know that there are lots of different synthetic motor oils on the market – all with slightly different formulations and characteristics. Because of space limitations, I'll concentrate my efforts here by focusing on one brand – Mobil 1– because it's been around for over 25 years and still earns the most respect from carmakers around the world. It's difficult to do a comparative analysis of synthetic and conventional motor oils without a little primer on how each is manufactured. Conventional motor oil starts out as basic crude harvested from organic matter deep within the earth. Within this crude oil are hundreds of different size hydrocarbon molecules – some short and light, some middle of the road, others long and heavy. This crude – or base stock, as it's called – is then sent to a refinery, where most of the impurities (among them wax) are removed. Key additives (detergents, corrosion inhibitors, etc.) are then blended in, and what you end up with are the cans of oil stocked on your shelves.

Unlike conventional oils, Mobil 1 starts out as a gas (ethylene) processed from hydrocarbons in a refinery. From there it's sent to a chemical plant, where it's transformed into a light liquid. It then undergoes another chemical process to yield polyalphaolefin – a heavier liquid that serves as the core base fluid of the oil. Esters and an additive package are then blended in, yielding the finished product available to consumers. The key point to remember about an oil like Mobil 1 is that it has just three or four hydrocarbon molecules – all very consistent in size and shape.

The chief advantages a synthetic oil has over the crude-based variety are less resistance to flow in colder temperatures and superior protection in high-heat, high-load situations. Let's look at the former scenario. Everyone knows that engine wear is most severe at startup. That's why chemists strive to improve an oil's pumpability (its ability to flow to moving parts fast). Conventional oils don't always fare well in this regard, particularly in colder temperatures.

According to Bill Maxwell, one of the guys that pioneered the development of Mobil 1 and now project leader for Mobil's synthetic engine lubricants group, movement of the longer, heavier molecules in conventional oils slows significantly in colder temperatures. Maxwell also points out that the wax found in crude-based oils (it's virtually impossible to remove all of the stuff during refining) crystallizes when cold, causing a thickening effect. Put these two factors together and you get a molasseslike consistency, increased resistance to flow and thus greater engine wear on startup. Maxwell notes that this isn't an issue with Mobil 1 because of the consistency of the molecules and the fact that the product contains no wax whatsoever. The end result is an oil with superior flow characteristics in temperatures down to -50°F!

Now let's look at high-heat, high-load situations. Conventional oils don't always do a good job in these situations, either. The chief villains here aren't the longer, heavier molecules, but the shorter, lighter chains, which have a tendency to boil off under these conditions. This causes oxidation, eventual breakdown of the lubricant and the potential for engine damage. Again, Mobil 1 has no such problems, due to its consistent molecular structure and superior additive package.

The claims that synthetic oils leak past main seals and delay or prevent ring break-in have been around ever since the stuff came to market in the mid-'70s. With regard to seal leakage, there was some merit to the accusation. Engines of the era weren't exactly built to the strictest tolerances. So engineers designed main oil seals that would swell when they came into contact with conventional oils. This swelling would, in effect, seal off large gaps and prevent leakage. The problem with pure polyalphaolefin is that it causes seal shrinkage – hence the leaks. Mobil chemists recognized this very early on in Mobil 1's life and, as a result, added an ester in with the polyalphaolefin. The ester behaved like conventional oil, causing seal swelling, without affecting the polyal-phaolefin's superior lubricating properties.