Headlight+Running Lights= NO Start
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: SoFla
Headlight+Running Lights= NO Start
Neighbor needed light "on the subject" tonight: I brought the rig over and turned on the headlights plus the runnung lights (truck was not running)- 30 minutes later I noticed the lights of the rig dim- then she no wanna start... had to jump
Q? Key was in the ignition ( turned all the way back) the radio was on-should this have happened?
Q? Key was in the ignition ( turned all the way back) the radio was on-should this have happened?
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
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From: Gateway to the West
Headlamps = 8 to 12 amp draw
Running lights = 3 to 5 amp draw
Radio = 3 to 5 amp draw (stock sound system; aftermarket will almost always be higher)
Key in the "ON" position turns on the engine electronics as well which includes the power supplies for the on-board computer and sensors so while its not much there is that draw as well.
So, best case scenario you were putting about a 20 amp draw on the battery with no charge going TO it for the half hour the truck sat like that. Depending upon the age and condition of the battery, that could be enough time to drain it below a point that it would have enough reserve power to crank the starter. The starter is the single biggest power draw on the battery (150-200 amps with a warm engine and higher in cold weather). In truth, if you had waited about fifteen minutes after shutting down the lights, radio etc. before trying to turn it over, it may well have started.
Running lights = 3 to 5 amp draw
Radio = 3 to 5 amp draw (stock sound system; aftermarket will almost always be higher)
Key in the "ON" position turns on the engine electronics as well which includes the power supplies for the on-board computer and sensors so while its not much there is that draw as well.
So, best case scenario you were putting about a 20 amp draw on the battery with no charge going TO it for the half hour the truck sat like that. Depending upon the age and condition of the battery, that could be enough time to drain it below a point that it would have enough reserve power to crank the starter. The starter is the single biggest power draw on the battery (150-200 amps with a warm engine and higher in cold weather). In truth, if you had waited about fifteen minutes after shutting down the lights, radio etc. before trying to turn it over, it may well have started.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 282
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From: Broken Arrow
if an Optima is going to be a waste then no dont get one. will you put the battery under high stress (ex. a winch, hi-power/off-road lights, extreme angles, etc..) if so then an Optima may be worth the cost. if its just a daily driver and this was a rare thing then I would just get a strong "acid cell" battery. what CCA do you have now.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,274
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I got the biggest Odessee battery. One time my grand daughter turned my spot light on all night. (its about like a headlight) Started right up. (Didnt help much with the burned carpit) I agree with Greystreak, if you would have given the battery a rest, it may have started.
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: SoFla
Thanks guys- Optima is out, I will give her a break next time- and by god helirich... get a fire extinguisher
BTW GS92- did you fab up a battery tie/bracket a while back??
BTW GS92- did you fab up a battery tie/bracket a while back??
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Columbia MO
This past spring I had to replace my wifes battery in her Explorer. I went back to the dealer who sold it to me and he no longer sold Optima batteries. He told me they were not reliable they either worked great or they crapped out within the first few months. Since then I have heard other stories similar to the dealers'. I got lucky, I have had my Optima battery in my Bronco for the past 6 years now, and I haven't had any problems. I'll Probably be going to an Odessy battery my self when this battery bits the dust.
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