Having problems with starting had to crank for a long time before starting but last week it would start but run real rough and then die. Once it got started it ran fine the dealer has the truck now and called and said it was a bad injector is this common i have about 35000 thousand miles on it?

 

I would really look into the FICM just had mine replaced last week 1150.00 it was doing exactly what you said, then it got to where i had to plug it in to start it, i dont think your truck would run fine if you had a bad injector. just a thought.

 

Whether it is an injector or two, the FICM, or Stiction, get it in and have it repaired under warranty:

Under emissions warranty you will not be charged for labor, diagnosis, or parts for any emissions control device or system for 100k (ie no $100 deductible IMO):
Air flow sensor
Air Fuel Feedback control System and sensors
Cold start enrichment system
Electronic engine control sensors and switches
EGR system
Exhaust manifold
Fuel Injection System
Intercooler Assembly - Engine Charger
Power Train Control Module
Turbocharger Assembly
Also covered by the two emissions warranties (Emissions defect warranty and Emissions performance warranty):
All emisssions-related bulbs, hoses, brackets, tubes, gaskets, seals, belts, connectors, non-diesel fuel lines and wiring harnesses that are used with components on the list above.

 

FYI -

Typically when one injector fails, we find that the engine is hard to start and is low on power. If two injectors fail starting will be very hard or the engine will not start at all. If you do manage to start the engine, it will be very low on power.

You also need to use synthetic oil (5W40), change the oil often, and get the latest flash -

The main reason why the 6.0 is so picky about oil is because it is totally reliant on two electromagnets to shuttle the spool and control the oil to the injectors. The 7.3`s use a electromagnet also but a spring to return the poppet to the closed position. Obviously the spring will work much better to "cut" through the thick oil and close the oil flow.

Not only will running oil with too thick of a viscosity cause rough starts. But this also will interrupt the shuttle action of the spool causing injection timing to be retarded causing poor performance and decreased mileage until the oil is up to full operating temperature.

There is a small spool valve in the top of the injector that controls the flow of high oil pressure fed to the intensifier piston in the fuel injector. That spool valve only moves .017", back and forth, on and off every time the injector fires.

Many factors play in to how well that valve works such as, oil temp, oil quality, normal wear, ambient temp, and many others. As this valve ages it polishes itself inside the bore of the spool valve and as the spool valve slams back and forth it can set up the condition like a suction cup, hanging the valve to one side or the other.

This uncommanded uncontrollable condition is called stiction (or oil latching). Mostly its a rough run cold condition but in severe cases it can be a no start or pretty harsh misfire condition. Oil that stays inside the valve on a hot engine shutdown and is allowed to cool slowly in the injector can aggravate the condition on restart, so the newest reflash uses inductive heat after shutdown to keep the oil warm, keep its viscosity low, and maximize the oil flowability to purge the oil from them. It has worked fantastic. It is an excellent preventative measure.

 

Good advice as usual Bismic !


Question - What is the latest flash for the 05 6.0 Ex's.... and what did it address ?

bringing mine in for the last roundup before my 100k warranty rolls off and wondered if I needed it...

 

Mark!
I was going to give you a big "hug" in rep points for the explanation on injector stiction, but I still have to spread the love.
Guys like you make this forum to be what it is.

 

i am using a scan gauge on my 04 6.0 f250 when i am looking map is that also manifold boos pressure

 

Thanks guys for all the information on my injector problem i always thought that diesel engine wear less complicated to repair but after listening to all the technical information it makes me nervous to keep the truck after the warente is up.The dealer called today and informed me that my truck had a full tank of gas in it and it killed 1and 4 injectors i checked my fuel receipt and it stated 29 gallons of diesel i called the gas station and it turns out that the transportation co filled the diesel tanks with gas the stations insurance is suppose to cover the repares.The bill is currently at 2,600 dollars and climbing I'm just disgusted over the hole thing thanks guys.

 

One thing I like to do is fill a jar w/ fuel before pumping it into the tank. I just want to see if it is dirty or has water. I do not do it all the time, but fairly often.

At least you are under warranty (unless you were really meant 35000 thousand miles - which would be 35 million I believe ). Seriously though - I hope the dealership is not denying warranty because of the wrong fuel. I suppose I can see why if they do.

I would start communicating w/ the fuel company on their liability for this and for future repairs. You could have more injectors fail down the road related to this. One time I got bad fuel and had to have the fuel system cleaned (on a 6.9L diesel). The fuel company paid the bill. It pays to keep receipts!

Edit - I re-read your last post and see where the Fuel Co.'s insurance will pay. Sounds great! I would still try to get some assurance from them that they will pay for future injector damage - say for the next year.

 

Joe try to have all 8 injectors changed if you can.

 

that's I would do make them pay for all 8 injectors cause you might have slight damage to the others that just don't show yet.

 

and gas will kill the lift pump. Ask the dealer to check everything fuel related.

 

Thanks Steve for replying the lift pump is gone also the bill is 3,000 dollars and climbing.

 

My 04 F-250 has just developed a new problem that I would like to run by you. I have searched the forums for symptoms of injector problems and came across this thread. Yesterday, out of the blue, my truck started to "miss" or run rough and idle like it had a dead cylinder or two. Once I got going and got the engine to rev it seemed to pull with power and run smooth. It felt like a leaking injector that would be OK when more fuel was needed. No CEL came on. It actually went away for a while then came back again. Is this classic injector failure? How can I locate it if so. Truck has 130K so no warranty. I would like to do the repairs if there are no special(expensive) tools required.
thanks for any advice.

 

Did this happened with cold or operating temp engine?