rear suspension set-up
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rear suspension set-up
Okay... change of plans and with no real plans. Here is whats going on... Took the truck back to the shop because the diff. had swung up on me and threw the driveshaft all out of wack and started vibrating bad. I thought this was the fault of the guy that welded my spring perches onto the diff. Come to find out, when I lowered it a while ago, I took bad advise and removed the helper spring hoping to get more of a drop. This was more harm than good. Now when I accelerate the springs want to form a "S" and swings my diff up. I either have to replace with new springs, find and remount a helper spring, or..... i dunno. Not a welder so I'm kinda limited to what I can do. Any suggestions? I would love to do a Tri-4 link but then again... no welding. I have looked at Marz68's set up a few times and wouldnt mind something like that but I'm dealing with the stock frame and again.... no welding. Feel free to advise... thanks in advance.
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That and where is your pinion angle set at?
(not tires hanging but tires loaded)
To me it sounds like that might be the issue
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The pinion is set at 4 degrees. Its a stock 360 with the stock original springs that had the helper taken out... which if I understand correctly, severely weakened the rest of the suspension under acceleration whether it be hard or easy. And I was looking into those over the top helpers and also the traction bars. I found a "bar" that has a mounting point under the spring perch where the u-bolts come through and connected to a heims joint and welded to the frame about 20 inches forward from the rear end. Anyone know about these?
Last edited by custom cabby; Aug 3, 2009 at 04:41 PM. Reason: i'm an idiot!
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If it runs on an angle, say from right axle Ubolt to left spring perch, it is called a Panhard Bar. It is very common in High HP/TQ prostreet vehicles, and street strip vehicles.
Or are you talking about ladder bars? 1 on either side.
Are you experiencing wheel hop also?
4% down correct?
Or are you talking about ladder bars? 1 on either side.
Are you experiencing wheel hop also?
4% down correct?
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I really don't think these would be considered ladder bars but i don't know for sure. I know what a panhard bar is and this is not it. They run parallel with the frame and does not angle to the other side. I don't get on it hard enough to experience any wheel hop but I would assume it would being the amount of strain on the springs in the little bit of acceleration I put it through. The 4 degrees is angled up... and from what I understand is because the motor is angled down somewhat.... not sure what degree its angled down. I'm not sure but I think I'm leaning more towards getting the traction bars because I think they will go good with the look of the truck... kinda the old school look. But I will entertain any other suggestions at this point.
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Thanks instig8r63. There isn't an application for my truck... they would probably build one for me but I'm sure that would be a pretty penny. And I have seen some of the costs for the others... not too sure I want to spend that kind of money considering that it will never see the track and I just need something for everyday use.
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From: East Flat Rock NC
custom cabby
As stated by the other posters ( Traction bars ) will help a lot , if you don't want to spend
alot you may want to try some " Slapper Bars " , also you may try a stiffer ( Shock )
Posibly a Spring style , or a ( Coil Over ) , and if you want cheaper a ( over load shock )!
P/S. let us know what you chose ,and how it works !
Wally Womack
As stated by the other posters ( Traction bars ) will help a lot , if you don't want to spend
alot you may want to try some " Slapper Bars " , also you may try a stiffer ( Shock )
Posibly a Spring style , or a ( Coil Over ) , and if you want cheaper a ( over load shock )!
P/S. let us know what you chose ,and how it works !
Wally Womack
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Okay, went with the traction bars from Lakewood and have already installed them. My issue is, the instructions suggest the snugger (rubber bump) should be about 1/2" from the leaf. It isn't... its about 4" and at this big of a difference I'm not sure if they will be doing any good. For my understanding, the snugger is supposed bump against the leaf to support the rear end from wrapping. And at a 4" difference, not seeing how thats going to happen. I'm sure the two u-bolts that attach the bar to the leaf with the rear end centered between them will prevent a little wrapping but not as much as it would with the aid of the snugger. Any suggestions?
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From: East Flat Rock NC
custom cabby
I think that I would make some rear ( Shims or Spacers ) , they could be made real easy from
flat stock , the same width as the rear mount of the traction bar ,drill holes in them !
You could make them from rubber, but they would need replaced from time to time !
Yes the (Snubbers do need to Snubb the front Eyelet of the leaf spring! )
You may want to let someone else make a few ( Take offs in your truck while you stand off too
the side and see if they are coming up and Snubbing the leaf Eyelet when taking off from a stop!
P.S. be carful if you try this.... (don't have your HEAD under the truck ! ) this is my disclaimer !
p.s. you can make you a Template ,traced off the rear mount !
p.ss / some times when parked on a Hill or Incline ,the traction bars hang about 4 inches lower untill you put load on them !
Wally Womack
I think that I would make some rear ( Shims or Spacers ) , they could be made real easy from
flat stock , the same width as the rear mount of the traction bar ,drill holes in them !
You could make them from rubber, but they would need replaced from time to time !
Yes the (Snubbers do need to Snubb the front Eyelet of the leaf spring! )
You may want to let someone else make a few ( Take offs in your truck while you stand off too
the side and see if they are coming up and Snubbing the leaf Eyelet when taking off from a stop!
P.S. be carful if you try this.... (don't have your HEAD under the truck ! ) this is my disclaimer !
p.s. you can make you a Template ,traced off the rear mount !
p.ss / some times when parked on a Hill or Incline ,the traction bars hang about 4 inches lower untill you put load on them !
Wally Womack
Last edited by Pro-Street/StateTK; Aug 14, 2009 at 02:28 PM. Reason: watching my Ps and Qs
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This just popped into my head! I have had the rear jacked up since working on it with the rear end supported with the stands because I am redoing the brakes. Could this be why its off so much? I'm stuck at work until late evening and won't be able to check till I get home. I'm thinking since the front is angled down from the rear being up in the air... maybe, just maybe....? I don't under stand how these could be much different from an early muscle car leaf set up. You would think that the car would have a shorter distance leaf than a truck and those snubbers are really close to the leaf.