What do you think of this list of parts? :)
I'm wanting a torquer and don't care nuthin about peak horse power.
"a 300 I-6 with 2 extra cylinders :)"
The plan is to never rev it past 3500rpm!

Planning to use 1991 351w stock heads and intake and a '89 A9P Mustang
computer with a '93 Crown Vic MAF sensor.

--Haven't picked out a 4" stroker crank yet, it just needs to match the rod's? :)

--Rods, short ones for low end torque:
Eagle 5956FB - SIR I-Beam
Connecting Rod Length Center To Center = 5.956 in.
Connecting Rod Material = Forged 5140 steel
Approximate Connecting Rod Weight = 675g
Big End Bore Diameter = 2.310 in.
Pin End Bore Diameter = 0.912 in.
Advertised Horsepower Rating = 500 hp
Advertised RPM Rating = 7,500 rpm
Weight Matched Set = Yes

--Pistons to match the rods:
Keith Black Pistons KB385-030 - Hypereutectic Pistons
Bore = 4.030 in.
Piston Style = Dish, with two valve reliefs
Compression Distance = 1.490 in.
Piston Head Volume = +28.00cc

--Oh heck, need to figure out the compression ratio! :/
Compression height = 1.490"
Rod Center To Center = 5.956
Stroke = 4"
Total = 9.446"
Piston Volume = +28.00cc
87 to 89 octane would be my preferred target. :)

--Cam with a low RPM power band:
CompCam 35-230-3 Xtreme Energy Camshafts
Cam Style = Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range = 600-4,800 RPM
Duration at 050 inch Lift = 206 int./212 exh.
Advertised Duration = 250 int./260 exh.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio = 0.461 int./0.474 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees) = 110

Do you think the 19# injectors will be enough? :) 24#? :)

Got any suggestions? :)
Go see a shrink maybe?

Alvin in AZ

 

Im building a 408w for my 77 F-150 right now, i went with the Eagle cast stroker crank it should be plenty of sturdy for your application. What heads are you using, there are plenty of companies making affordable alum. and cast iron heads these days, and i am also using a comp cam but im using the extreme energy 262. Keep me informed about your build

 

Mind if i ask why you dont want to ever rev it past 3500 rpm?

I can tell you the compression ratio if you can tell me what cc the combustion chambers are.

 

I just want a put-around truck engine and don't want to rev it up to go. ;)
Besides with an overdrive transmission it won't need to rev. :)
Also no sweat going with a 4 inch stroke, see? :)

--------------------

I never said I wasn't weird. :/
Somebody on FTE pointed out one time that, neither is anyone else! LOL :)

----------------------

They are stock Edweena Bauer early '91 Bronco 5.8L heads.
I don't know what the cc's of the heads are. :/
I've read there are three choices?
I'll have to take them off to find out? ...like on an FE? :)
Is there some sort of markings on them that I could read from the outside?

What do you guys think of hypereutectic pistons for this application? :)

Choosing short rods is good for the pistons and good for low end torque.
Agree?
Disagree? :)

Alvin in AZ

 

Hypereutectic pistons will be fine.

Longer rod=more torque. If i was you id find a complete rotating assembly that has the longest connecting rod possible.

Those stock heads should be about 64-65cc so with that piston you would probably be around 8.8-9:1 compression ratio, which is perfect for your desired octane rating.

I cant honestly tell you how this motor will react to those stock cylinder heads, but your going to leave a ton of power on the table. I hope your not using the stock cylinder heads just in hopes that they would give you more low end tq than a set of aftermarket heads because..well..in short..they wont.

 

Cool. :)
You keep us updated. :)

I'm just in the planning stages is all. :/

I believe the cast Eagle was the one I was looking at. :)
Not looking to make lots of horsepower just lots of low end torque is all. :)

Alvin in AZ

 

Have any idea about what the cost would be of a complete rebuild of the old heads,
compared to new? :)

 

A complete rebuild of the stock heads can cost $500-800 and you can have a brand new set that outperform them by quite a bit for that or a little more... so it's a total waste of money.

 

If you ask me, it would be a waste to spend $2000 or so on a rotating assembly and then cheap out on the heads/ rest of the combo.

To realize the full potential of this motor i would be looking at a 205cc AFR head or the like.

 

afr 185's would do very well for his needs.

 

What I -want- is a 300-I6 with 2 more cylinders and -nothing more-. :)

I'm not sure how I'm going to go about it just yet but I have a '91 351w
with 73k miles on it and another with 124k. Both run great. :)

I'm not looking to build a "prerunner" out of the '91 Bronco either! LOL ;)
By not doing that I'm leaving lots of -that potential- on the table too right? ;)

If I wanted a hot rod I'd build one that wouldn't have a heavy-assed metal
body on it. ;) ...and air conditioning and carpet. ;)

---------------------

There was a graph posted showing how crummy FT heads were compared
to FE heads one time. Funny thing was the FT had torque that kicked the
FE's butt -if- you were only looking at the torque below 3500rpm.

Funny how "the graph only showed" the higher horsepower to everyone else
but me. ;) Only after pointing it out did anyone even notice the higher torque
values "down where a guy would actually be running the engine" in a pickup,
all they looked at was the peaks. Funny huh? :)

---------------------------

The short rods are for low end torque since they act "quicker" at sucking in
and pushing out. But that's a problem for high RPM operation see? :) That
action takes a certain amount of time and at high RPMs the short rods are
too quick. Smokey Yunick said to stuff the longest rods you can into your
engine, but he was referring to top horsepower, which I'm not interest in,
-at all-.

Are we on the same page yet? ;)

Yeah, I know, the page I want to be on is not the same one everybody else
is on. :/

Alvin in AZ
ps- my weird assed list:
add a stroker crank to the 351w
remove 33 gallon tank replace it with a 20 gallon
put spare under that tank and another inside the back
remove outside wheel rack (done)
cut a hole and add a midship tank from F150, door from F250
remove driver's electric door lock (done)
swap in a hand crank window mechanism on driver's side only
re-pin ignition cylinder so the key from my '75 F150 will work in it
take out E4OD and replace with a ZF from an F250
replace 4wd front end stuff with 2wd F150 front end
rebuild 3L55 8.8 rear axle, the Traction Lok is shot!
repaint white, it's turd brown now and hotter than hell
scrape off all the purple window tinting
replace all the rubber weather stripping
get -glass- headlights, make surround
use the bench seat from the 73k mile F150
add a longer gear shift lever from a '74 C700
replace the steering column with a manual non-tilt (done)
remove Edweena Bauer's name from it and all other badges (done)
patch all those holes but save the ones for the outside wheel rack
remove radio and the antenna, patch that hole too
swap the engine from SD to MAF (Mustang A9P computer)
add about a 2" lift to the front to make up for the removed 4wd
use front springs from the 73k F150, they are two steps stiffer
remove and give away Reese hitch (done)
fix rear window mechanism (done)
replace the little brake pad with a big brake pad on pedal assembly(done)
give away F250 parts truck (done)
haul off the F150 and F250 parts trucks
sell or give away E4OD, 1356E, 4wd front end and 33 gallon gas tank

 

Since this will be a low rpm engine, I would also reuse the stock connecting rods and heads, as well as using the previously mentioned Scat cast iron crankshaft.

As you pointed out, most heads don't flow a lot different at low rpm. I have seen graphs on the internet comparing head flow at different rpm, but don't recall the address.

You're probably quite realistic about at what rpm a typical engine spends most of its time.

 

ugh. where do i start. Try breathing through a coffee straw, cause thats what a 408 will do with stock heads. A shorter rod is not going to give you more torque either. An engine makes torque, hp is a calculation. If you want a 300 6 with two more cylinders get a 351 with a cam and headers or a 460.

 

i didnt read everyones posts....sorry
why are you goin with shorter rods, why not just get pistons with a higher wrist pin location?
also i can tell you that the 351w likes to rev so even if you plan on not going over 3500 it will without tryin

 

Sounds like you need a diesel ....... Lew