When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
What do you want to change them to?
I have a complete different fuel system than what was originally installed from the factory. 5/8 Fire rated Parker hose for the feed side, and 3/8 fire rated on the return side. you can get all the bosses and fittings you will need at your local hydraulics store.
What BD said. I did my own and there are kits. Please elaborate on whether you want to make your own or buy a kit which is becoming much more attractive these days. Doing it yourself can be a PITA unless you have a list. I believe I posted the parts for the DIYer here before.
Thanks for the reply's. I was going to replace lines with OEM parts. Did not know of any kits. Would be interested in them. Who sells them?
Are you currently having rub through issues with your factory lines? the factory lines are Stainless steel, and although they may show some discoloration, they are very stout lines. If you are having leaking or dripping problems around the connections, there is a compression sleeve replacement kit avail from Bob at dieselorings.com that would be a hell of a lot cheaper than the lines themselves. If I am not mistaken the factory lines are pretty expensive. Well to be honest, the hoses I used were pretty expensive too. You can just remove your old lines and clean them if you think you may have a clog.
Brandon: In a related issue, have you removed the orifice adapters at the heads as part of that kit? I just found out about those having such a small orifice recently and want to open 'em up or replace them. That's the last thing I want to do before the sticks go in. I have a fuel pressure gauge on its way now from clay (thanks for the info on that, BTW), so once it's in, I want to get a baseline before further fuel system mods go in (DFA RR & the orifice mod).
Brandon: In a related issue, have you removed the orifice adapters at the heads as part of that kit? I just found out about those having such a small orifice recently and want to open 'em up or replace them. That's the last thing I want to do before the sticks go in. I have a fuel pressure gauge on its way now from clay (thanks for the info on that, BTW), so once it's in, I want to get a baseline before further fuel system mods go in (DFA RR & the orifice mod).
Yes Joe, I removed those fittings and used new bosses for the heads.
Right, but I'm keeping the fuel bowl. I see no need to get rid of it in my case. My plan is to switch to that Walbro pump if I have pressure issues when all this is done.
I'll give DFA a holler and see if it's better to replace the lines between the bowl & heads or just the fittings. I may pull one and see if I'll be better off just drilling them out. Heck, might even do that later today. And get pics, or course.
Right, but I'm keeping the fuel bowl. I see no need to get rid of it in my case. My plan is to switch to that Walbro pump if I have pressure issues when all this is done.
I'll give DFA a holler and see if it's better to replace the lines between the bowl & heads or just the fittings. I may pull one and see if I'll be better off just drilling them out. Heck, might even do that later today. And get pics, or course.
I would think if you were going to the trouble of replacing the check valves, that you might as well upgrade the existing lines to bigger ones.
<input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.