The basic differences are that there is no separate instrument light switch (headlight switch wiring is a little different) and the 51/52 drawing doesn't show the wire going over to the ignition switch. Last thing is the 52 circuit breakers are configured differently, but hooked up the same. Like this:





OBTW, I have made all these drawings in MS Power Point and can send to anyone who wants larger copies, or wants to use them to modify them for their own wire colors or wiring configuration. Check out my "Electrical" gallery for the basic drawings I have.

 

I am removing the push button switch, which post on my new 6 volt ign switch does it go on

 

Need help on the ign switch , where does the starter button wire go on the 4 post switch

 

I need HELP. What post on the ign switch does the wire from the push button go to

 

Ok lets calm down. First of all, Welcome to FTE!

Now, what year is your truck? And just confirm it is 6 volt positive ground. Then confirm you have a stock ignition switch (which until 1956 only had 3 posts by the way)that is correct for your year. If not stock, what year is the ignition switch?

Then tell me what you are trying to do - hook up a start button? Remove a start button and use an ignition switch with a key start position?

For the button, do you want it to work when the key is off? And lastly, do you have a starter button that is single lead that grounds to the dash, or do you have a 2 lead start button that completes contact when pushed?

If you have a 6 volt positive ground system, with a STARTER SOLENOID that has only three posts (two large and one small) and a single post start button, the post of the start button is wired the the "S" (small) post of you STARTER SOLENOID. That is the only way that button can be wired.

If you have a two post start button, then power flows from the ignition switch to one post and flows out the other post to the "S" (small) post of your STARTER SOLENOID.

If you have a two post button and want it to be hot all the time, in other words you can turn over your starter with the ignition turned off (for preoiling), then the power in from the ignition switch comes from the "B" or "BATT" terminal flows to one start button post, then flows out from the second post of the starter button to the "S" (small) post of the STARTER SOLENOID.

If you want the start button to work only when the ignition is turned on with the key, then the power from the ignition switch comes off the "A" or "ACC" terminal, flows to one post of the start button then out the other post of the start button to the "S" (small) post on the starter solenoid.

If you are removing the push button completely and have a new four post ignition switch (which is 56-on) with an "S" position and a spring loaded key position to turn your starter, then you disconnect and remove all the wires from the start button, and run a wire from the "S" (starter) post onthe back of your ignition switch, to the "S" (small) post of the STARTER SOLENOID.

Pictures - these are two post start button only If you have a one post it connects to the "S" (small) post of the STARTER SOLENOID and grounds to the dash.

If you are removing the start button, then use the bottom picture (but keeping th epolarity for positive ground) Ignore the fourth post on the starter solenoid (the "I" post) your 6 volt solenoid doesn't have it - this is used on 12 volt solenoids only:



Lastly, when you have an issue, it's much better top start a new thread than tag onto an old one like this. When we give an input to these sometimes we don't return to them - best to start a new one.

 

SOMEONE NEEDS TO SAVE ME FROM HELL--I HAVE A 52 FORD F1 6 CYL 215. I HAVE PUT A NEW WIRING HARNESS ON AND IGNITION SWITCH. I GET THE MOTOR TO TURN OVER AND IT SEEMS THAT THERE IS NO SPARK GOING TO THE COIL OR COMING OFF IT. I HAVE BEEN TINKERING WITH IT FOR TWO WEEKS NOW AND AM END OF MY WIRED BRAIN. A LARGE DIAGRAM WOULD BE HELPFUL ..THE SYSTEM IS A 6 VOLT. THANXSSS

 

Stock wiring harness: If you have an aftermarket harness the colors may or may not correspond.

Make sure you have power to the switch from the circuit breaker (large Yellow wire connects to the BATT or AM post) and have the red/green trace wire connected to the IGN or COIL post. That will power the coil when the key is the ON position.

If you get power to the coil and from coil to the distributor but the points won't fire, check the connecting wire inside the distributor (under the advance plate). It flexes back and forth with the vac advance and if the insulation breaks, will short out to the dist body.

 

This is the distributor off of my 52 also with a 215. The freyd wire is what mtflat is describing. There are two of them. Both of mine were freyd and only one was wrapped (half-a**) with electrical tape. If you have a manual, there's a procedure written in there on how to remove the shaft inorder to provide access to replacement of the wires.

The issue is likely in your distributor. Check the points and gaps again. Check the rotor. Re-check everything again.

Is your coil original or a replacement? Try to find a good used original coil or buy another new coil. Sometimes new coils are bad out of the box.

 

I HAVE A 52 F1 WITH THE 215 CI. MY START BUTTON TURNS THE ENGINE WITHOUT THE IGNITION ON AS DOES THE IGNITION SWITCH. I CAN'T SEEM TO GET A SPARK TO THE PLUG. TESTED THE COIL AND IT READS AROUND 1.4 OHM

I ALREADY PUT NEW WIRING HARNESS ON ALONG WITH VOLT REG SOLENOID AND EVERY THING ELSE. IF ANYONE HAS ANY SUGGESTIONS PLEASE EMAIL ME AT jwinn@cableone.net PLEASEEEEEEEE