52 ign. switch help
#1
52 ign. switch help
I finally figured out the head light switch mounting thanks to the replies I received. Now I am trying to hook up my ign. switch. I purchased a new switch, lock cylinder and bezel from LMC. The switch has a large spring that extends about halfway up the shaft. My dash has a round hole with flat sides, shaped like a double d shaft, with tabs on both sides. I have no idea how its mounts. lol. the switch will not fit in the hole on my dash. Thanks for any help, as usual detailed instructions or pictures would be great. Ian
#2
I did not think the 51-52 ignition switch was reproduced. You may have gotten one that will do the function but is not a correct replacement. The stock unit fits into the dash and there is a bezel that goes on the front and with a quarter turn holds the switch in along with the spring pressure. The 48-50 switch is different than 51-52 and I am not sure if it is reproduced.
#3
They do have it listed, "Starter button F Series 52-55: (18) on
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fa/full.aspx?Page=85
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fa/full.aspx?Page=85
#4
On mouinting the ignition switch, there is a bezel that holds it on in the front as was mentioned. But also, there is a spacer that has not until recently been reproduced, that goes on the switch between the spring and the dash.
The spacer is under spring pressure and while pushing from behind the dash out the hole, the bezel is put on and twisted 1/4 turn. When the switch is locked into place, spring pressure keeps it tight.
I think C&G has the spacers now so maybe the other shops do to. But if you can't find one, cut a piece of 1" PVC irrigation pipe to exactly 3/4 inch in length and it will work perfectly. I used a 56 switch (because I wanted the starter position to use to engage my electric hood lifts, and I still use a separate start button), and th epipe worked perfectly. Not use if this one is the same dimensionally, but should not have the start position.
You should ask LMC if they have the correct bezel because they were different between 52 and the early Effies!
The spacer is under spring pressure and while pushing from behind the dash out the hole, the bezel is put on and twisted 1/4 turn. When the switch is locked into place, spring pressure keeps it tight.
I think C&G has the spacers now so maybe the other shops do to. But if you can't find one, cut a piece of 1" PVC irrigation pipe to exactly 3/4 inch in length and it will work perfectly. I used a 56 switch (because I wanted the starter position to use to engage my electric hood lifts, and I still use a separate start button), and th epipe worked perfectly. Not use if this one is the same dimensionally, but should not have the start position.
You should ask LMC if they have the correct bezel because they were different between 52 and the early Effies!
#5
They do have it listed, "Starter button F Series 52-55: (18) on
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fa/full.aspx?Page=85
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fa/full.aspx?Page=85
I have had quite a few 51-52s and have never seen a spacer on the ignition switch just a spring. The headlight switch does have a spacer that I don't think is reproduced as mentioned.
#7
thanks again. If any one has the correct switch for sale or wants to trade for a brand new later one let me know. It seems that everthing I have bought from LMC that states its for a 52 is NOT....the catalog states on one page its for a 52 but then on the page with the 53 to 55 dash description it lists the same pn but says 53-55 EEEERRRRRRRRR. anyway thanks for the help Ian
Trending Topics
#8
#9
That's frustrating, don't get discouraged. Send it back to correct them.
If you can post a photo, please do, if you can't, you can email it to me and I'll post it here so we can see the problem. (I might order one soon.): pat1952@earthling.net
If you can post a photo, please do, if you can't, you can email it to me and I'll post it here so we can see the problem. (I might order one soon.): pat1952@earthling.net
#10
Pictures
I was thinking of the button, my fault, sorry if I added to the confusion.
Here is a link to the photo's in case they don't post:http://claymore.weebly.com/page-3.html
Picts from Ian
Here is a link to the photo's in case they don't post:http://claymore.weebly.com/page-3.html
Picts from Ian
#13
Hi Patrick,
Just FYI, the switch you have in the pictures is a 56 switch. And the bezel is 56 as well. I know because I actually prefer the 56 bezels and have them in my 51. But also, the forth threaded post, elevated in the center on the back of the switch - is the "Starter" post. That isn't there on th e51/52 switch (or for that matter the 53-55 either I think.
And yes you will need that spacer I told you about in post #4.
You can use that 56 switch both electrically and mechanically (you may have to open up the dash hole a tad or get rid of the two tabs that hold the stock switch), and you can still wire the starter button to turn your starter instead of the key. I actually use the Starter position to power my electric lifts for my full front tilt so you need th ekey to get the hood open.
Only thing is you will need to use the 56 bezel to hold hte switch in.
Here's two pictures. One of my 51 dash with the 56 bexels, and the second is a wiring diagram for the ignition switch and starter buttons.
As you can see I have a few "off things" but they look original. For example the 51 Ford Car wind-up clock mounted in the ash tray. I will NOT cut a dahs to install something like htat so in the tray it went. I have a complete second set of 100% stock dash items - ash tray glove box door (without the logo) etc. Also, yo umay note that the heater cotrol fo rmy Magic Aire is not the stock 51/52 panel, but 48-50. I did this intentionally as I needed to mount a second one of those to mount my overdrive and hood "T" handled cables. I wanted the two panels to match and there wasn't enough room in the stock side by side heater control panel to duplicate it for the overdrive/hood panel. Also note the shift indicator for the automatic transmission - a second dash/steering column bracket moved up to the steering wheel and rounded off. I am using the stock ssteering column and shift for the 390/C6
So, it all looks stock to the untrained eye, and very few people who do know the difference notice. So I'm not sure if this is "Darksider Criteria" but it certainly is "Dim Sider Criteria" - tee hee!
Just FYI, the switch you have in the pictures is a 56 switch. And the bezel is 56 as well. I know because I actually prefer the 56 bezels and have them in my 51. But also, the forth threaded post, elevated in the center on the back of the switch - is the "Starter" post. That isn't there on th e51/52 switch (or for that matter the 53-55 either I think.
And yes you will need that spacer I told you about in post #4.
You can use that 56 switch both electrically and mechanically (you may have to open up the dash hole a tad or get rid of the two tabs that hold the stock switch), and you can still wire the starter button to turn your starter instead of the key. I actually use the Starter position to power my electric lifts for my full front tilt so you need th ekey to get the hood open.
Only thing is you will need to use the 56 bezel to hold hte switch in.
Here's two pictures. One of my 51 dash with the 56 bexels, and the second is a wiring diagram for the ignition switch and starter buttons.
As you can see I have a few "off things" but they look original. For example the 51 Ford Car wind-up clock mounted in the ash tray. I will NOT cut a dahs to install something like htat so in the tray it went. I have a complete second set of 100% stock dash items - ash tray glove box door (without the logo) etc. Also, yo umay note that the heater cotrol fo rmy Magic Aire is not the stock 51/52 panel, but 48-50. I did this intentionally as I needed to mount a second one of those to mount my overdrive and hood "T" handled cables. I wanted the two panels to match and there wasn't enough room in the stock side by side heater control panel to duplicate it for the overdrive/hood panel. Also note the shift indicator for the automatic transmission - a second dash/steering column bracket moved up to the steering wheel and rounded off. I am using the stock ssteering column and shift for the 390/C6
So, it all looks stock to the untrained eye, and very few people who do know the difference notice. So I'm not sure if this is "Darksider Criteria" but it certainly is "Dim Sider Criteria" - tee hee!
#15
My start button turns the engine no matter which position the ignition switch is in. I have a 6 volt positive ground system though (I don't like their cookies! :P), but I can't seem to get a spark from the coil. There are a few more things to test, but I guess it could be the ignition switch if it's acting funny, or the ballast?
(Ian probably doesn't want mine when I take it out, plus I keep parts. But even if you can *make* it fit and it looks good that doesn't mean LMC should be selling it as a 1952.)
Edit: no ballast in 6 volt
(Ian probably doesn't want mine when I take it out, plus I keep parts. But even if you can *make* it fit and it looks good that doesn't mean LMC should be selling it as a 1952.)
Edit: no ballast in 6 volt
Last edited by oldblue92; 08-04-2009 at 01:43 AM. Reason: no ballast