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Old Aug 1, 2009 | 09:42 PM
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Squishy Brakes

Hi all,
I was towing my boat today (about 2000 lbs, no trailer brakes) and I noticed something funny. I just changed front rotors and pads about two weeks ago and right after that, the brakes felt great. But today, sometimes they felt like they did right after the change, but sometimes they would be squishy. Like, I would step on them and they'd be firm at first, but them the pedal would squish down some, and be firm again, but then squish down some. When I pumped the pedal, it would firm up again. I had no trouble stopping, so close calls, but the feeling was disconcerting. Any ideas?
Thanks
 
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Old Aug 1, 2009 | 09:45 PM
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could be master cylinder bypassing inside
 
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Old Aug 1, 2009 | 09:50 PM
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How involved is that? Does it require replacement, or is it repairable?
 
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Old Aug 1, 2009 | 09:56 PM
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Bleed/flush the brake fluid. I just replaced my pads today and did not get a chance to do it; Same thing here. I will flush them before RRE.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2009 | 10:00 PM
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When you replace the pads and rotors, should you always flush? It was bled twice at STS while trying to diagnose the brake issue before replacing the rotors and pads. I did that myself though, so it's not their fault.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2009 | 10:01 PM
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Yep -- sounds like some air stuck in there somewhere, hopefully. Hopefully it's not the master cylinder...
 
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Old Aug 1, 2009 | 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 74baja
When you replace the pads and rotors, should you always flush? It was bled twice at STS while trying to diagnose the brake issue before replacing the rotors and pads. I did that myself though, so it's not their fault.
Well, if yours were like mine you had to squeeze the pistons back into the calipers to get them on. So that usually requires bleeding at a minimum. If you had problems before, then well you still have them. I recommend flushing that fluid out completely. It is not expensive at all for the fluid. Good luck.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2009 | 10:12 PM
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Ok, will do. I got instructions for bleeding in my last brake thread, but how do I flush the system?
 
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Old Aug 1, 2009 | 10:16 PM
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normally when you have air in the lines the first application will be low or spungy then will pump up strong
Pushing the pads back in won't put air in the lines actually may push air out if there is any in there
 
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Old Aug 1, 2009 | 10:24 PM
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Oh brother, if this is something that's going to cost me more money... just in the las month- rotors, pads, ball joints, I need tires... how can I go about checking the master cylinder?
 
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Old Aug 1, 2009 | 10:33 PM
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I hear ya. Try buying two new hub assemblies buddy. You flush the system by basically bleeding all of the old fluid out. Just keep topping it off in the master cylinder until it is gone.

As for the master cylinder, mine did the same thing after I changed pads. There is nothing wrong with my master cylinder.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2009 | 10:38 PM
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Once you are sure there is no air in the system there are two ways to check if the MC is bypassing
!-Hold firm pressure on the pedal if the pedal starts creeping down it is a good sign of bypassing
2-remove resivoir cap and have someone hold firm pressure on the pedal while watch the fluid.Bypassing would give a fluid movement while the pedal is held down
 
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Old Aug 1, 2009 | 10:40 PM
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Just in case, if it was the MC, what kind of work/cash am I to expect?
 
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Old Aug 1, 2009 | 10:46 PM
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Wait, I forgot to mention something. When I flushed my power steering, I accidently added some PS fluid to the brake resiviour. Just a little bit, maybe an ounce. Could this be messing things up?
 
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Old Aug 1, 2009 | 10:49 PM
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According to the parts guys site the MC is just over $100 and install is fairly simple
 
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