Front Hub Assembly Question
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Tuned
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 394
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From: austin
Front Hub Assembly Question
I'm pretty sure one or both of my front bearings needs replacement. Intermittently, I'll get a humming/moaning/grinding noise when I hit the brakes, and occasionally when turning. If I left off the brakes, the noise goes away. I'm thinking that the brake is shifting the load to the front end and applying enough pressure to cause the issue - does this sound correct? Today I plan to jack up the front end and see if the tires have any play when pushing at 6 & 12 o'clock positions.
If I need new ones, do I need to stay away from the Ebay generics? Autozone has Timken for $300 each, which is probably gonna start a fight with the wife when I drop $600 and spend a Saturday doing the repair!
How do I know before buying if I need fine thread or coarse thread studs (they only stock coarse thread at my local Autozone store - fine threads are special order and $390 each).
Thanks in advance,
-Chris
If I need new ones, do I need to stay away from the Ebay generics? Autozone has Timken for $300 each, which is probably gonna start a fight with the wife when I drop $600 and spend a Saturday doing the repair!
How do I know before buying if I need fine thread or coarse thread studs (they only stock coarse thread at my local Autozone store - fine threads are special order and $390 each).
Thanks in advance,
-Chris
Last edited by torquemeister; Aug 1, 2009 at 02:58 AM. Reason: added info
Super Moderator
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From: Frederick, MD
I take it this is on the 4x4?
This can be of help:http://powerstrokehelp.com/PSD_common/4x4_hub/1of1.asp
This can be of help:http://powerstrokehelp.com/PSD_common/4x4_hub/1of1.asp
Elder User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 749
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From: Phoenix, Az
I watched that video. First off, using vice grips on the studs ruins them. It puts gouges in the studs that can lead to failure. Use 2 nuts on the end to remove. #2, is heating the hub red hot, where the stud is threaded in. If you dont get the stud out, right away, the hub will shrink, and you will not get the stud out at all.
Elder User
Joined: May 2004
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From: Phoenix, Az
Wow!! $390 each? I hope that is a typo. Dealer sells for about $5 each, as I understand it. They should be fine thread.
Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2008
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I just did my left front hub assembly on my 2006 F250 4x4. I found the whole assembly with wheel studs for at the Ford dealer for $365.00. You may want to check into it. At least you know your getting a genuine Ford part.
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Tuned
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: austin
$390 is for the unit bearing assembly with fine thread studs.
$300 is for the unit bearing assembly with coarse thread studs.
Both are Autozone, and both are Timken. It looks like all the cheapies on ebay also have the studs with the unit, but I don't see mention of whether they're fine or coarse thread?
$300 is for the unit bearing assembly with coarse thread studs.
Both are Autozone, and both are Timken. It looks like all the cheapies on ebay also have the studs with the unit, but I don't see mention of whether they're fine or coarse thread?
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
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From: Mt. Shasta California
Coarse threads were on the 99' through 02' models. Personally I would buy a cheap eBay hub, as there were some positive real world write ups on them in here last week. That should keep your truck and wife both happy. I would only replace the bad one and grease the other one. Hopefully you won't need a stub axle.......then there is the wrecking yard.
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Tuned
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: austin
So if given the option I guess I'll need fine thread? I would prefer the cheap ebay hubs, since I don't really drive that many miles per year....
I jacked up the front end, both sides have a little bit of play when pushing/pulling with hands at 3 & 9 o'clock. Didn't feel any play when hands were at 12 & 6 o'clock. Spun them by hand a couple of rotations, and the passenger side definitely makes a noise for about 1/4 of the rotation. The driver side sounds the same all the way around, I'm just not sure what it should sound like.
-Chris
I jacked up the front end, both sides have a little bit of play when pushing/pulling with hands at 3 & 9 o'clock. Didn't feel any play when hands were at 12 & 6 o'clock. Spun them by hand a couple of rotations, and the passenger side definitely makes a noise for about 1/4 of the rotation. The driver side sounds the same all the way around, I'm just not sure what it should sound like.
-Chris
Elder User
Joined: May 2004
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From: Phoenix, Az
My mistake on the coarse vs fine threads. Oops! I thought he meant the studs to retain the hub to the spindle.
The wheel studs can be determined by looking at what is on the truck now, as to coarse vs fine thread. AFIK, they could be 1/2-20, 14x1.5 or 14x2.0. I checked mine with a known nut from the hardware store to verify threads.
The wheel studs can be determined by looking at what is on the truck now, as to coarse vs fine thread. AFIK, they could be 1/2-20, 14x1.5 or 14x2.0. I checked mine with a known nut from the hardware store to verify threads.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,798
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From: Mt. Shasta California
The spindle is the knuckle here. The fact that you have no play at 6 and 12 is a good sign. Maybe you can just grease them and maybe replace the needle bearings. You can grease the main roller through the ABS hole.
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Tuned
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: austin
So my two choices are:
1. buy new hubs for $150-300 per side, which come ready to install
2. buy just the o-rings and potentially have to buy new hubs if the needle bearing is not the culprit.
Opinions - am I better off buying new cheap hubs and only pulling everything once, or is it so much easier after the first pull since corrosion won't have built up that it's not a big deal? The wife won't freak outon something in the $300 range for the total bill, so I could get the ebay hubs and be done with it for xx,000 miles.
Any input on the 2 options would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks for all of your help,
Chris
1. buy new hubs for $150-300 per side, which come ready to install
2. buy just the o-rings and potentially have to buy new hubs if the needle bearing is not the culprit.
Opinions - am I better off buying new cheap hubs and only pulling everything once, or is it so much easier after the first pull since corrosion won't have built up that it's not a big deal? The wife won't freak outon something in the $300 range for the total bill, so I could get the ebay hubs and be done with it for xx,000 miles.
Any input on the 2 options would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks for all of your help,
Chris
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,798
Likes: 14
From: Mt. Shasta California
I always go the the cheap route myself. I would take them apart first and see what you need (Maybe nothing). I used all my old seals too because they where in good shape and it all works fine. Don't forget you can grease your wheel hub bearings through the sensor hole. (Very good idea). Many people blow a bunch of money on parts they don't need because they assume they need something.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 2,297
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From: Indiana
My son in law used new wheel bearing assemblies off e-bay last winter on his 2000 S-D they are working just fine. Appeared to be good solid units.
He did have to replace one outer axle shaft too. Spindle bearing failure, tore it up bad.
He did have to replace one outer axle shaft too. Spindle bearing failure, tore it up bad.