Installing Rear I.D. lights
More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 713
Likes: 5
From: Minneapolis, MN
bpounds, I assume you used gel filled wire taps? If not you would have corroded wires in a short amount of time. Either way, I prefer to cut the existing wires, then tie them back together with the new wires "doubled up" on one side with the butt connectors that have shrink tubing on either end, or solder them. Of course, I have alot more corrosion problems up here with the road salt than some southern states, but none-the-less, for guys adding these lights in, make sure your connections are sealed well or they will not last.
For my truck, I used a 15" bar made for a trailer. It's clear plastic, has the 3 LED ID lights as well as both sides light up with the turn signals and brake lights. Very nice inexpensive unit. I did have to drill holes though, as the spacing is a little smaller than the factory holes. On an older truck, I made my own with some aluminum channel and LED lights from Northern.
For my truck, I used a 15" bar made for a trailer. It's clear plastic, has the 3 LED ID lights as well as both sides light up with the turn signals and brake lights. Very nice inexpensive unit. I did have to drill holes though, as the spacing is a little smaller than the factory holes. On an older truck, I made my own with some aluminum channel and LED lights from Northern.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 17,988
Likes: 207
From: La La Land
When I did mine, I used incandescents. They just look more "natural" to me.
But that's just me. The LEDs use far less current.
And yes, waterproof connections last a lot longer while remaining trouble-free. Reliability is much more important to me than go-fast.
It's what happens when you get old.....
Pop
But that's just me. The LEDs use far less current.
And yes, waterproof connections last a lot longer while remaining trouble-free. Reliability is much more important to me than go-fast.
It's what happens when you get old.....
Pop
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 17,398
Likes: 317
From: Whittier, CA
No, I didn't. I've had perfect luck with those wire taps, but now that you mention it, that may be the worst place on the whole truck to use them. Although the loom under there wasn't very dirty. Anyway, like you said, we don't have the salt considerations that other places do.
As for soldering, I will never solder unsupported wire splices. I know that goes against the grain here on this group. All I can say is, there is a reason why stranded wire is used on machinery, and solder just turns stranded wire into solid wire, unless it is properly supported.
Time will tell, and it won't be a big problem either way.
More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 713
Likes: 5
From: Minneapolis, MN
No, I didn't. I've had perfect luck with those wire taps, but now that you mention it, that may be the worst place on the whole truck to use them. Although the loom under there wasn't very dirty. Anyway, like you said, we don't have the salt considerations that other places do.
As for soldering, I will never solder unsupported wire splices. I know that goes against the grain here on this group. All I can say is, there is a reason why stranded wire is used on machinery, and solder just turns stranded wire into solid wire, unless it is properly supported.
Time will tell, and it won't be a big problem either way.
As for soldering, I will never solder unsupported wire splices. I know that goes against the grain here on this group. All I can say is, there is a reason why stranded wire is used on machinery, and solder just turns stranded wire into solid wire, unless it is properly supported.
Time will tell, and it won't be a big problem either way.
As for solder, that's a new one to me. You're solding a 1/2 inch section of stranded wire... So what if that 1/2" section doesnt flex. I've never had, nor have I ever seen, a problem of what you're describing. I think you're going to be far better off soldering a 1/2" of unsupported wire than using a wire tap with no protection from moisture. Heck, I even solder the wires on the back of my trailer plugs and they hold up a whole lot longer than dielectric/taping/etc. A lot easier to do it right the first time than have problems later on down the road. Again, no offense intended, just providing my insight.
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 17,398
Likes: 317
From: Whittier, CA
Of course, no offense taken at all. I'm not a fan of those taps either. Not for anything critical. In this case, the worst that can happen is my center light would go dark. Like it was before I installed it.
"Mifflin Clay"
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3,177
Likes: 4
From: Mifflin, PA
I find that the best waterproofing is the type of heat shrink tubing that contains a melting adhesive inside it. The adhesive melts as the tubing shrinks, forcing it throughout the splice. Waterproofs and provides support for soldered joints. I even use it over crimp splices.
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From: Huntersville, NC
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 157
Likes: 0
No fancy pictures yet but I used an LED combination ID Marker and Brake light (ebay item 350237480478 "LED combination 3 light bar, high mount brake light red" from "randpcarriages)" mounted in the usual location centered below the tailgate. I just installed a flat four-connector trailer plug on the wiring from the light and plugged in into the unused connector (my trailer uses the 7-pin plug).
Works like a charm on my '04 F250 SD. Almost invisible when not lit. Looks good as a marker light when the taillights are lit. Also serves as a center brake light (although not really high enough to give all the benefit of a CHSL) but bright enough to be noticed -- especially if you are following a bit too closely.
Works like a charm on my '04 F250 SD. Almost invisible when not lit. Looks good as a marker light when the taillights are lit. Also serves as a center brake light (although not really high enough to give all the benefit of a CHSL) but bright enough to be noticed -- especially if you are following a bit too closely.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 519
Likes: 7
I bought a stainless LED ID bar similar to the OP's from Autozone and grounded it directly through the bed via the bolts, then ran a single power wire to my driver's side taillight. Voila, comes on with parking or head lamps, and no issues.