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Well, when it rains, it pours. What started out to be a water pump job has turned into a new radiator needed job. When I pulled the shroud off to get to the waterpump I noticed some stains on the back side of the radiator which was covered by the shroud. Took it to the local radiator fix-it man to check out and he gave me the bad news. It would cost more than a new radiator. I did a search looking for some of the posts from the past about the cost of a new radiator. I've asked a couple of local parts places like Advance and Oeilly and the prices range from $303 to $350 and that is before tax. Anybody have any ideas?
$300 or so seems to be the norm for these, they are just way too huge to be cheap. You can try to locate a radiator in your local salvage yard, that's how I just picked up a decent one from an E-series diesel van for $30 - thing was heavily pressurized from the hot ambient temperatures and when I opened the cap it hissed big time, so I know it holds up pressure good, all I have to do to put it in my truck is clean it with muriatic acid solution (done already) and then drill new holes in the mounting brackets cause the E-series bolts don't line up with the truck ones... I'll be putting on a new water pump at that time as well, so I know I'm good for quite a few more miles. Speaking of water pumps, how much of a pain it is to replace one on these trucks?
Well I had problems with my radiator earlier this year. I had purchased a new radiator and about a year later the seam at the top tank started leaking. I took it back and the company I got it from said they would repair it no charge. Well I got the truck back and it appeared that they hadn't done anything to it so i called them and cursed them out for what they were worth cause it was still leaking I promised them they will never have my business again ever. So went to the parts house and used some stuff made by Wynn's. Wynn's Stop leak, I poured one bottle in by directions and I haven't had anymore troubles. Yes it is only a temporary fix but it will hold until I can get another 350 to get another radiator. I have used this Wynn's stop leak on customers vehicles because they didn't have the money to repair or were too cheap. I have used it from leaky heater cores to pouring intake/ or head gaskets. It repaired all leaks I have put it in. So you can try Wynn's stop leak and maybe buy you some time but follow directions or it will hurt more than help. Again this is only temporary til you can get the funds for the repair.
$303.00 is the same price I was quoted this afternoon. O'reilly it is
How hard is it to change the water pump? I'm not in any hurry plus I will have the radiator to put mine all together. I've been working on mine since tuesday. If everything was ok I"d be done right now but having to get the special wrench for the fan clutch and then everything connected with the radiator, it should be done by the weekend.
FL-MUDD-DUCK: Is the radiator from O'Reilly's just like the radiator that came out?
Thats what I thought to. When he called me this morning, he said there were a number of soldered places where other people had tried to fix the leaks before I got it.
I remember years ago having a radiator rodded out but from the sounds of it with the cost of everything going up I would have the price of a new radiator in just getting this one fixed. I"ll try again tomorrow and see what I can dig up. I know one thing, this radiator is HEAVY. One more thing, he didn't charge me anything for looking it over and checking for the leak.
Also, the leaks were all in the flue area and not on the top or bottom seam.
to reply back to you dave, when It first started leaking I noticed that the middle of the tank wasn't below the lip of the seam. It seems when they had manufactured the radiator it wasn't seated properly. oh well when it rains it pours i guess. LOL my first radiator was leaking in the floos. As a matter of fact the same day I replaced my radiator my IP went out. I installed the new radiator that morning, went to lunch came back out, hit the key.......nothing. The IP quit on me. Talk about your bad luck LMAO. That was $750 worth of repairs in one day and I wasn't even asking for it.
I just did the same thing a few weeks ago. My water pump seal popped, then noticed the radiator was cruddy while draining it and the fan clutch was bad as well which helped kill the water pump. Radiator was $350, but got it for $280 with my discount, $25 bucks for the pump, $144 for the fan clutch and $80 for coolant. My water pump was a snap to change, after fighting to get the fan clutch off. There were no brackets attached to my pump which made it easy to reach and remove. The fan clutch is reverse thread, and make sure you dont mix up any of the water pump mounting bolts. If you get a longer bolt where a short one should go it can contact the timing gears behind the cover. There are also several bolts that require sealant, otherwise you will end up with coolant in your oil.
Thanks for the tips on the water pump! yeah I know about the longer bolts, actually I've made it a point to check for water pump differences every time I do that job no matter the engine, as it seems parts manufactures often change designs to correct for fitment issues. And I always put sealer on all the bolts, whether they require it or now, better safe that sorry
Success!!! I finally got everything back together and as far as I can tell, no leaks. I'll have to check down every so often to make sure thee's no leaking into the water from the oil. Thanks guys!!!
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