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New radiator needed, How much??

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Old Jul 30, 2009 | 01:37 PM
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New radiator needed, How much??

Well, when it rains, it pours. What started out to be a water pump job has turned into a new radiator needed job. When I pulled the shroud off to get to the waterpump I noticed some stains on the back side of the radiator which was covered by the shroud. Took it to the local radiator fix-it man to check out and he gave me the bad news. It would cost more than a new radiator. I did a search looking for some of the posts from the past about the cost of a new radiator. I've asked a couple of local parts places like Advance and Oeilly and the prices range from $303 to $350 and that is before tax. Anybody have any ideas?
 
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Old Jul 30, 2009 | 02:00 PM
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$300 or so seems to be the norm for these, they are just way too huge to be cheap. You can try to locate a radiator in your local salvage yard, that's how I just picked up a decent one from an E-series diesel van for $30 - thing was heavily pressurized from the hot ambient temperatures and when I opened the cap it hissed big time, so I know it holds up pressure good, all I have to do to put it in my truck is clean it with muriatic acid solution (done already) and then drill new holes in the mounting brackets cause the E-series bolts don't line up with the truck ones... I'll be putting on a new water pump at that time as well, so I know I'm good for quite a few more miles. Speaking of water pumps, how much of a pain it is to replace one on these trucks?
 
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Old Jul 30, 2009 | 02:02 PM
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Well I had problems with my radiator earlier this year. I had purchased a new radiator and about a year later the seam at the top tank started leaking. I took it back and the company I got it from said they would repair it no charge. Well I got the truck back and it appeared that they hadn't done anything to it so i called them and cursed them out for what they were worth cause it was still leaking I promised them they will never have my business again ever. So went to the parts house and used some stuff made by Wynn's. Wynn's Stop leak, I poured one bottle in by directions and I haven't had anymore troubles. Yes it is only a temporary fix but it will hold until I can get another 350 to get another radiator. I have used this Wynn's stop leak on customers vehicles because they didn't have the money to repair or were too cheap. I have used it from leaky heater cores to pouring intake/ or head gaskets. It repaired all leaks I have put it in. So you can try Wynn's stop leak and maybe buy you some time but follow directions or it will hurt more than help. Again this is only temporary til you can get the funds for the repair.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2009 | 06:19 PM
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I got mine from Auto Zone for about $350. It is working great as I rarely see over 200F unloaded.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2009 | 06:23 PM
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i paid $303 plus tax at orielys works great
 
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Old Jul 30, 2009 | 08:35 PM
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$303.00 is the same price I was quoted this afternoon. O'reilly it is
How hard is it to change the water pump? I'm not in any hurry plus I will have the radiator to put mine all together. I've been working on mine since tuesday. If everything was ok I"d be done right now but having to get the special wrench for the fan clutch and then everything connected with the radiator, it should be done by the weekend.

FL-MUDD-DUCK: Is the radiator from O'Reilly's just like the radiator that came out?
 
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Old Jul 30, 2009 | 08:53 PM
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When you crawl over the top of the radiator while working on the engine, you can break the top seam loose if you are not careful.

Any decent radiator shop should be able to fix that in just a few minutes, but the radiator has to come out to do it.

I was unlucky, I bought my new one when metal prices were very high a couple years ago, 431 dollars.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2009 | 09:42 PM
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Thats what I thought to. When he called me this morning, he said there were a number of soldered places where other people had tried to fix the leaks before I got it.
I remember years ago having a radiator rodded out but from the sounds of it with the cost of everything going up I would have the price of a new radiator in just getting this one fixed. I"ll try again tomorrow and see what I can dig up. I know one thing, this radiator is HEAVY. One more thing, he didn't charge me anything for looking it over and checking for the leak.
Also, the leaks were all in the flue area and not on the top or bottom seam.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2009 | 11:07 PM
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Sorry my post was supposed to be aimed at doube_zero where the top seam was leaking.

dyoungen, be glad you are down where they don't use salt all winter long.
Radiators don't last to long up here.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2009 | 01:14 AM
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to reply back to you dave, when It first started leaking I noticed that the middle of the tank wasn't below the lip of the seam. It seems when they had manufactured the radiator it wasn't seated properly. oh well when it rains it pours i guess. LOL my first radiator was leaking in the floos. As a matter of fact the same day I replaced my radiator my IP went out. I installed the new radiator that morning, went to lunch came back out, hit the key.......nothing. The IP quit on me. Talk about your bad luck LMAO. That was $750 worth of repairs in one day and I wasn't even asking for it.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2009 | 02:04 AM
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I just did the same thing a few weeks ago. My water pump seal popped, then noticed the radiator was cruddy while draining it and the fan clutch was bad as well which helped kill the water pump. Radiator was $350, but got it for $280 with my discount, $25 bucks for the pump, $144 for the fan clutch and $80 for coolant. My water pump was a snap to change, after fighting to get the fan clutch off. There were no brackets attached to my pump which made it easy to reach and remove. The fan clutch is reverse thread, and make sure you dont mix up any of the water pump mounting bolts. If you get a longer bolt where a short one should go it can contact the timing gears behind the cover. There are also several bolts that require sealant, otherwise you will end up with coolant in your oil.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2009 | 12:09 PM
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Thanks for the tips on the water pump! yeah I know about the longer bolts, actually I've made it a point to check for water pump differences every time I do that job no matter the engine, as it seems parts manufactures often change designs to correct for fitment issues. And I always put sealer on all the bolts, whether they require it or now, better safe that sorry
 
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Old Aug 2, 2009 | 05:39 PM
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Success!!! I finally got everything back together and as far as I can tell, no leaks. I'll have to check down every so often to make sure thee's no leaking into the water from the oil. Thanks guys!!!
 
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Old Aug 2, 2009 | 06:29 PM
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The gasket goes around the bolts too so how could coolant get in the oil if the gaskets good?
 
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Old Aug 2, 2009 | 10:50 PM
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Right now I don't remember how those bolts are in the water pump.

But every book out there specifies sealant on the threads of the bolts that go into the timing gear cover so coolant in the oil does not happen.

Much easier to put it on the bolts when the pump is installed than it is to do it again if you have a leak.
 
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