The '91 Dodge Cummins is NOT intercooled, intercooled starts in '94 I believe (maybe 93.5).

Yes, I agree the US gear has it's issues as well, however the location of installation is more correct IMNSHO!

The need for over drive and 4x4 is real, An Aux. over drive is not purely for top end speed, the ability to split gears is the real deal, especially loaded in the Ice and Snow ...

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

Intercooling I believe started in the 91.5 models. Mine was a 92 factory intercooled unit.

 

I stand corrected ... Intercooled starts in '91...

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

I looking at the fordcummins.com website and they recommend a different exhaust manifold to give more clearance between the turbo and AC box on the firewall. What do you think?

Thanks
Mark

 

There are different ways to handle that. Some flip it upside down, some have used a different manifold, I just tilted the motor 3 degrees to the driver's side, and put heat insulation on the airbox. There is a manifold that goes straight down instead of angling out like the Dodge does. I don't remember the application that has that manifold though. I went with the dodge unit as was to avoid the expense of custom exhaust work.

 

I've got a 4bt 1980 F100. www.4btswaps.com has a ton of information, it should easily get you on your way. There's a big section for 6bt swaps too. As far as mine goes, it was a pretty easy swap, even the electrical stuff didn't seem too bad although I haven't run it yet. I'm using an M5R2 mazda 5 speed behind it along with the stock 9 inch rear. I had to fabricate some motor mounts for it, but other than that it was almost a bolt-in deal. There were some clearance issues when I changed the exhaust manifold from top side to down. I have a chopped 6bt manifold coming from CA that should fix this since it's at a 45 degree angle instead of 90 and it moves the turbo forward some too. I've heard these things get high 20s to low 30s in mileage, but I haven't verified that yet. Let me know if you have anymore questions about it.

 

So, did you make your own mounts to tilt the engine 3 degrees?

Thanks

 

Yes, I couldn't justify the pricetag they have on them for something I can build myself. If or more likely when I do another, I will build the mounts differently though, as I do not like the 1st gen Dodge mounts, I will build them with an eyelet style next time. The only other way i can see doing them is to move the mount to above the frame, rather than trying to reuse the stock location and setup again.

 

Does anything think it would be worth getting the “install manual” at www.fordcummins.com. I know most of the swap is pretty straight forward, I’m just trying to save as much time as possible. I pulled the whole front clip off my Dodge donor truck and have been working the mount for a Ford alternator. My 86 F350 does not have a fuel pump in the tank. Do I need a electric fuel pump for the Cummins?

 

How in the hell do you edit a post? I meant to say, "does anyone"

 

I had a response all typed up thi morning, and the internet died before I could post it...

The only Cummins motors using an electric pump are the common rail motors, all the rest have a mechanical pump.

I don't know your level of technical expertise, but a swap of this sort isn't really just a bolt and go situation, you have to have some understanding of how everything works, and also how to rework it. If you go with an adapter plate, you will still likely have to rework driveshafts and/or crossmember/trans mount. I made my own motor mounts, following the example of using the Dodge flat rubber mounts. I do not like how they have held up at all. I recommend the round eye type mounts, or some other method, like making the mount fitup straight down, not on side like the Ford mounts do, and if I'm not mistaken, the FordCummins mounts as well. The FordCummins adapter plate requires hacking the trans bell housing, while the Destroked plate is bolt up type setup, no hacking. This type job is not a beginner job, it is more for someone who has at minimum done some regular swaps before. You don't have to be ultra experienced, but fabrication skills and a good working knowledge of how the different components work and are hooked up is very helpful.

 

Well, I just finished a 429 swap into a 72 Maverick so a lot had to be fabbed up, from headers, motor mounts etc., so basically I see the diesel swap as being fairily easy. A few questions to someone who had done a project like this can save time. I really don't like to reinvent the wheel if I don't have to. I have also learned over the years, a little planning at the beginning of a project can sure save time. As of right now, I'm planning to make my own engine mounts also. All I need is for my kids and wife to leave me alone. LOL

 

Ok, sounds like you will be fine. From that perspective, the swap is actually fairly easy if you do either the VE pump or P pump. (1sit gen and 2nd gen). They both are basically one wire hookup to make them run, and the senders aren't bad to hook up.I chose to stick with the Ford alternator, but it isn't that big a deal to keep the Dodge alternator on it either. The a/c pump is where it can be trickier. I haven't tackled that just yet, but my truck didn't have factory a/c, so it is a bit bigger challenge. It comes down to how each person wants to do it, and what you are willing to accept. I'm not overly thrilled with putting the pump over the top of the injector pump area.

 

I got sidetracked with other work for about a month or so, but I've been back on this swap. I've got the engine sitting in the truck on custom mounts. I would like to mount the AC compressor on while I have the front clip off. Anyone have the best solution for mounting an AC compressor on the Cummins in a Ford truck?

 

I don't have air in mine, but I would go with the assumption that you would use the Cummins compressor, the Ford condenser and custom rig whatever hoses you may have.