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hey guys i was just curious if the intake tube actually got hot enough to do any damage to anything after doing the foil delete?
and...
ccv mod: do you actually have to buy a kit with a filter system or can you just buy item from a parts store and save $300? and as far as the boots on the intake tubes, is ford the only place that has stock replacements???
This site gets very addictive, there needs to be a warning sign somewhere about how much your truck may change upon entering !!
LOL... Yep -- I've been on here almost every day since Feb 2007.
The CCV can be done by simply taking off the intake tubes, replacing the CCV coupler with a piece of 4" OD exhaust pipe, reversing the "dog house" (filter) 180 deg, then run a piece of 3/4" heater hose with a 3/4" coupler off the elbow on the dog house over the brake booster and back as far as you want it to be. I ran mine all the way to the rear axle. Be prepared to replace the O-rings under the dog house. They're probably pretty deformed. They're 1-1/2" OD, 1-1/4" ID 1/8th inch thick O-rings. I found some at my local auto parts store.
Clay @ Riff-Raff sells a kit for fairly cheap I believe, too. Shoot him a PM.
And no, the I/C tube doesn't get THAT hot. The exhaust manifolds are waaaay hotter.
sweet, would you happen to know about the boots and clamps? i found a lot of higher psi ones but no stock ones anywhere and i actually havent even called ford yet.
sweet, would you happen to know about the boots and clamps? i found a lot of higher psi ones but no stock ones anywhere and i actually havent even called ford yet.
Call Clay at Riffraff Performance and get his CCV mod kit. He has it priced to about the same as you would pay for a DIY kit, but everything is right there for you, including the new O-rings you'll need.
Clay also has some really excellent boots for the IC. I truly believe they are one of the best available for us 7.3L guys.
There's nothing wrong with higher psi boots, but if you're looking to save some money, and you plan on doing the CCV mod, you can buy either the boots or a 2' piece of hose here http://www.siliconeintakes.com/index...90dc402d4d3c34
when you route the hose to the back of truck, is it necessary to put some time of filter on the end of hose?
No.. alot of guys don't.. some say is can drip on the ground but mine never has. If you really want to take a soup can and stuff some brillo pads in it and zip tie it in.
No.. alot of guys don't.. some say is can drip on the ground but mine never has. If you really want to take a soup can and stuff some brillo pads in it and zip tie it in.
Ditto. I routed mine down onto my frame rail and I figure if it coats it with oil then it's a benefit cause it's keeping it from rusting any further.
Yes. Look at post #2. You can get everything you need locally without ordering online. Boots & clamps are availabe at the dealer (if they have 'em in stock) -- they are a bit more specialized, so it's a little more of a challenge. I've heard marine/boat accessory places might have hose that can be cut to work, as long as you don't need one of the tapered ones down at the I/C.
LOL... Yep -- I've been on here almost every day since Feb 2007.
The CCV can be done by simply taking off the intake tubes, replacing the CCV coupler with a piece of 4" OD exhaust pipe, reversing the "dog house" (filter) 180 deg, then run a piece of 3/4" heater hose with a 3/4" coupler off the elbow on the dog house over the brake booster and back as far as you want it to be. I ran mine all the way to the rear axle. Be prepared to replace the O-rings under the dog house. They're probably pretty deformed. They're 1-1/2" OD, 1-1/4" ID 1/8th inch thick O-rings. I found some at my local auto parts store.
Clay @ Riff-Raff sells a kit for fairly cheap I believe, too. Shoot him a PM.
And no, the I/C tube doesn't get THAT hot. The exhaust manifolds are waaaay hotter.
As Joe said...It is addictive.I do not know half as much as many on here but I know I can get the best help here by just asking...Great group of folks that will spend hours trying to help ya!!!!
Yes. Look at post #2. You can get everything you need locally without ordering online. Boots & clamps are availabe at the dealer (if they have 'em in stock) -- they are a bit more specialized, so it's a little more of a challenge. I've heard marine/boat accessory places might have hose that can be cut to work, as long as you don't need one of the tapered ones down at the I/C.
ya i looked at the boots yesterday and both are covered in nasty grime on the hot side i didnt look at the other side. I want to do it right im just a tightwod i guess . how much air could i be letting out since i know it is leaking? and i wont be gettin my gauges until monday now so i dont even know what my truck is doin.
When you do your CCV mod, pull all the boots and clean them with some kind of grease cutter (dawn dish soap, Simple Green, etc.). That's what I did and they're still looking good now that the turbo isn't pushing nasty, oily, CC gasses through there.
My first mods were the CCV & 6637. When I did those, I got it all cleaned up and it has stayed that way. When you put everything back (and I don't think you need new boots unless you just want to or they're torn), tighten them down, but not too hard because you can crush the tubes or I/C inlet or outlet. It's definitely a feel kind of thing. It's best to leave them maybe a bit loose and have it pop off than crush something! Carry a 7/16ths deep socket, 5/16ths socket (for the orange ones under the spider), long extension, and wrench with you so if one does pop, you can put it back on easily.
I would say go buy Clay's kit. He pretty much buys in bulk and then passes the savings on to you.
Yep, *and* he uses oil-rated hose, not heater hose that is most common. Eventually, heater hose will need replaced. Mine has been there over 2 years now though and still looks okay.