compressor check?
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: San Jose
compressor check?
I have a 1989 f250 7.3 diesel with 100,000 miles. Air was not working when I got it. The truck had been sitting for 5 years. It had pressure in the system, when I had it evacuated they said it had a leak. I had to brake down the system to replace front body parts and radiator support.. It's been open about 3 months but sealed with metal tape at the connections.
Today I pulled the orifice and it looks good except for some specks of aluminum about 4 or 5 pieces 1/32 in diameter on the condenser side. I suspected the leak to be at the quick disconnect as it was taped up. I also suspect the front seal maybe leaking on the compressor as it has lots of oily dirt on it
Am I safe to flush out the system, replace all the o-rings and dryer, and recharge it? Can One still find shops using R12?
Or is this the beginning of the the compressor failure?
If I replace the compressor I think it best to replace everything except the evaporator and go with R134 using a better condenser. With that being the case is it save to run the compressor till it dies?
http://www.ackits.com/merchant.mvc?S...rd89Truckfs7-3
Anyone know what parts fit? Is one better then another?
Thanks Tom
Today I pulled the orifice and it looks good except for some specks of aluminum about 4 or 5 pieces 1/32 in diameter on the condenser side. I suspected the leak to be at the quick disconnect as it was taped up. I also suspect the front seal maybe leaking on the compressor as it has lots of oily dirt on it
Am I safe to flush out the system, replace all the o-rings and dryer, and recharge it? Can One still find shops using R12?
Or is this the beginning of the the compressor failure?
If I replace the compressor I think it best to replace everything except the evaporator and go with R134 using a better condenser. With that being the case is it save to run the compressor till it dies?
http://www.ackits.com/merchant.mvc?S...rd89Truckfs7-3
Anyone know what parts fit? Is one better then another?
Thanks Tom
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,776
Likes: 5
From: Lorain County, Ohio
I have a 1989 f250 7.3 diesel with 100,000 miles. Air was not working when I got it. The truck had been sitting for 5 years. It had pressure in the system, when I had it evacuated they said it had a leak. I had to brake down the system to replace front body parts and radiator support.. It's been open about 3 months but sealed with metal tape at the connections.
Today I pulled the orifice and it looks good except for some specks of aluminum about 4 or 5 pieces 1/32 in diameter on the condenser side. I suspected the leak to be at the quick disconnect as it was taped up. I also suspect the front seal maybe leaking on the compressor as it has lots of oily dirt on it
Am I safe to flush out the system, replace all the o-rings and dryer, and recharge it? Can One still find shops using R12?
Or is this the beginning of the the compressor failure?
If I replace the compressor I think it best to replace everything except the evaporator and go with R134 using a better condenser. With that being the case is it save to run the compressor till it dies?
http://www.ackits.com/merchant.mvc?S...rd89Truckfs7-3
Anyone know what parts fit? Is one better then another?
Thanks Tom
Today I pulled the orifice and it looks good except for some specks of aluminum about 4 or 5 pieces 1/32 in diameter on the condenser side. I suspected the leak to be at the quick disconnect as it was taped up. I also suspect the front seal maybe leaking on the compressor as it has lots of oily dirt on it
Am I safe to flush out the system, replace all the o-rings and dryer, and recharge it? Can One still find shops using R12?
Or is this the beginning of the the compressor failure?
If I replace the compressor I think it best to replace everything except the evaporator and go with R134 using a better condenser. With that being the case is it save to run the compressor till it dies?
http://www.ackits.com/merchant.mvc?S...rd89Truckfs7-3
Anyone know what parts fit? Is one better then another?
Thanks Tom
I don't believe there is a direct fit parallel flow condenser available for your truck, though. Going to a PF condenser is a good idea if you plan to use R134a, but would require a universal condenser and a custom hose set to connect it. It's very doable, but it can be quite an expense.
A less costly plan would be to use the old condenser and an auxillary cooling fan if needed. A new fan clutch may be all that is needed for good airflow over the condenser with R134a. If it can't quite do the job, then look into an auxillary pusher fan to help with airflow.
If you have any doubts about the compressor, replace it now. If you reuse it and it grenades, you'll be doing the entire job over again. Yours is the FS6 shown on the ACKits site. The SD509 units are for Dealer added AC, I'm assuming your is factory.
As for the other parts, you'll need the 37-13211 and the 31-50003 orifice tube along with oring kit shown. Also, that Nylog is really good stuff for the Spring Lock fittings on Ford products.
Good Luck,
Another Tom
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Freshman User
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From: San Jose
Tom thanks for the reply. If I look for the compressor locally what is a good brand to look for? On the FS6 W/CLUTCH 5 EAR ALL THREADED 2 @ 5, 1 @ 12, 2 @ 7 NON SWITCH TYPE 1-GROOVE DIA 5.8 MTD .85 COIL PIN @ 12:00 What dose it mean by non switched?
Tom
Tom
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,776
Likes: 5
From: Lorain County, Ohio
Avoid No Name compressors from Ebay. There are some good quality units on Ebay but it's nearly impossible to tell them from the multitude of junk that also turns up on a search.
One aftermarket reman that I've seen good results with is the Factory Air Brand. Those are available from Advance Auto Parts in my area. I haven't used a lot of them, but there's never been an issue with the ones I've used.
My basic guidline for buying a reman compressor is to be wary of any unit that costs less than about $200. Quality doesn't come cheap with AC parts.
"Non-Switched" just means that there is no pressure switch on the compressor. The FS-6 is a Nippondenso 15Pxxxx compressor and never had a pressure switch mounted to it when used in a Ford application. It may have when it was used on something else.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,776
Likes: 5
From: Lorain County, Ohio
I usually get the Red. There's supposed to be a difference between them, but nobody seems to know what it is.
That stuff is kinda fun to use, it's like playing with gorilla snot.
It does wonders for keeping Ford Spring Lock fittings sealed, though. It also makes a great assembly lube for anything else with rubber orings. I use it on cartridge type faucets too.
That stuff is kinda fun to use, it's like playing with gorilla snot.
It does wonders for keeping Ford Spring Lock fittings sealed, though. It also makes a great assembly lube for anything else with rubber orings. I use it on cartridge type faucets too.
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: San Jose
I have called my local dealers and its about $529 for total replacement with new compressor, accumulator, orifice, o-ring kit, flush solvent, and pag oil. one is "napa cold power" the other is "global a/c". Any idea what is the better of the two?
I need to see if I can find the NYLOG.
Edit:
http://www.rtxs.com/xcart/home.php?cat=258
looks like the red is Refrigeration Grade Mineral Oil base.
blue is Refrigeration Grade Synthetic Oils base.
I need to see if I can find the NYLOG.
Edit:
http://www.rtxs.com/xcart/home.php?cat=258
looks like the red is Refrigeration Grade Mineral Oil base.
blue is Refrigeration Grade Synthetic Oils base.
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