Coolant Issue
Here again with something new for you. I went to north sidney today so about a 1.5 hour trip and as hot as it is i found the truck to be running hot. It didnt get out of hand but it was running a letter or two higher, it usually runs at the "O" and it was on the "R" and "M" on the NORMAL scale. Well i got it home, let her cool off and went out to check the fluid level, it was low and i could see the top of the inner radiator, you know all the little openings and fins on the inside. Well i got out the mix and filled it up then started it up, and the strangest thing happened. SMOKE poured out of the tailpipe, and it burnt my eyes and nose like fuel would no sweet smell at all. I went to gas it a little and it didnt go away. Shut her down and I got out, the engine had been on for about 1 minute and i felt the radiator cap, cold so i unscrewed and it sprayed "THANK GOD" cold fluid everywhere with a lot of force. I noticed too that the overflow tank had been filled and overflowed while this was going on. I capped it after a top off and started again, the overflow tank was flowing over constantly. It emptied most of the fluid and the truck got really friggin hot so i had my dad spray a mist of water on the rad and engine compartment, it cooled off but only after the thermostat let go i am assuming.
I am voting the @#%@#@ thermostat but why all the smoke? it has never done that before except right at cold start and it goes away as fast as it came. I am freaking out fellas help please!!!
Head gasket.
Sorry.
There is a slim chance that the thermostat allowed things to get hot enough to boil the coolant and that would also cause overflow of the recovery tank, but if it sat for a while and was not actually overheating at any point....thats pretty much ruled out.
Be careful not to directly hit the injector pump with cold water when the engine is hot or that might have to be replaced too. Steel internals, aluminum case, very close tolerances all make for a risk of thermal induced seizure. (aluninum shrings down on the steel internal parts)
Another long shot is if the intake manifold let go allowing water to get ingested through the intake ports of the engine. This only applies to 6.9 engines however. The coolant ports that could start such a problem are blocked off with perminant core plugs on the later 7.3 IDI.
Oh, and just in case anyone else doesn't know, its hotter than hell in BC right now.
Head gasket.
Sorry.
There is a slim chance that the thermostat allowed things to get hot enough to boil the coolant and that would also cause overflow of the recovery tank, but if it sat for a while and was not actually overheating at any point....thats pretty much ruled out.
Be careful not to directly hit the injector pump with cold water when the engine is hot or that might have to be replaced too. Steel internals, aluminum case, very close tolerances all make for a risk of thermal induced seizure. (aluninum shrings down on the steel internal parts)
Another long shot is if the intake manifold let go allowing water to get ingested through the intake ports of the engine. This only applies to 6.9 engines however. The coolant ports that could start such a problem are blocked off with perminant core plugs on the later 7.3 IDI.
Oh, and just in case anyone else doesn't know, its hotter than hell in BC right now.
Well bro, what do it do here, how do i get that done? I really need this SOB and i dont have all the damn cash to give to the labor charges.
You could probably do a cheap head job if you ONLY replace the head gaskets themselves, and yes you can buy them individually. The intake manifold gasket can in fact be reused. Its not recommended, but is doable if it comes out without being damaged. Some RTV sealer is all it really takes after a thorough cleaning. Thats a good $100 knocked off right away.
I don't know about the exhaust manifolds but I'm pretty sure you can leave them on for the whole job. Otherwise, they (gaskets) aren't very expensive to replace.
Head bolts don't have to be replaced unless there is obvious damage. Make sure you have a way to clean out the bolt holes in the block though. Friction is your worst enemy when torquing down a new heard.
The heads are removed by loosening the bolts in reverse order of install to prevent cracks.
They also weigh about 100lbs each without a manifold hanging off it so some form of hoist is advised.
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Compare how long the after repair and before repair test times were.
4.3 liter engine runs what, 8 to 1 compression?
With 22 to 1 compression in your diesel .....
Compression in the radiator is probably a head gasket.
The fuel smell could be from a mis firing cylinder because of low compression in that cylinder.
Fixing it by pouring something in the radiator, not likely.
Can you make or buy an adapter that will let you put shop air in the glow plug hole?
If you can, I will give you a test to figure out which head gasket and what cylinder has the problem.
Not only will that make the repair unlikely compared to the jeep engine, but the high compression leaking past the fire ring on the head gasket will erode the deck surfaces of the block.
I've seen this happen in my engine and in my Dad's 6.5. In my case it wasn't too bad, in his case, he found a high temperature metalic patch material at NAPA to fill the surface pitting, then sand it flush by hand. 6 years later its still holding fine (being under pressure of the head clamping down probably helps).
Erosion like this is a reason a diesel engine should never be run with a leaking head gasket. In many cases, the engine will still run fine and still be reliable, but the damage can be done over that period.
In fact many diesel engiens have leaks like that, sealed when cold or hot, but leak in between.
Bottom line, head gaskets are getting weak and starting to leak.
I have to wonder if an injector sticking open is what got you looking to see the bubbles in the radiator..




