So it has been a whirlwind adventure this past couple weeks. I thought i had a hydro locked or siezed engine there for awhile and it turned out to be a starter. POS friggin was so corroded that it literally fell apart and so now with a new one she fires instantly. For the time being and since i will need a truck to get the new engine and keep feeding horses hay, i have removed the old thermostat and drilled two 1/16" holes in it to relieve pressure and now she keeps in all the fluid and stays cool. No water in the oil either so good there too.
I want to replace the head gaskets, i just need to know what i am getting into, anyone have some detailed assistance with this? How much could i expect at a shop for replacement? Also how much does the "grinding" or resurfacing of the heads cost? Thanks bros!

p.s. the new starter is noisier than the last one, it is a new bosch not reman and guaranteed for life but it makes a whine when starting. If no one knows what i mean i will record the noise and post, just let me know! Thanks

 

i just got mine ruing after about 6 mouths head jobs arnt hard just labor intences heack head weights about 80 pounds if i rember right

 

Why would you have to have the head decks resurfaced? Its generally best to avoid that because of the VERY close running clearance between the valves and pistons. If you have the heads ground down, then the valve stems will have to also be shaved off slightly to compensate and prevent collision between valves and pistons (thats generally frowned upon).

A shop will probably charge you at least $2000 from start to finish to do a head job like this, but you can phone around and see what they tell you.

I take it you are running the truck now. Are you still getting coolant pushed out the recovery tank? If not, forget about a head gasket job and buy a new motorcraft thermostat.

If yes, here is a write up on an in frame head gasket job:
http://www.dieselwarden.net/ford/project22.html

He is showing a lot of other stuff like stud install as well, but the basic procedure is the same only easier with stock bolts. There really isn't much to pulling the heads other than the weight of them. You also want to keep the pushrods in the same order.

He also took the injector pump drive gear cover, water pump, and front cover off, you DO NOT have to do this.

EDIT: Joe, they are about 95 lbs for only the casting, with the manofolds on and the rockers still in place, its well over 100lbs per head.

 

well like i mentioned, i drilled two pinholes in the old thermostat and the problem went away as for pushing out all the coolant. But i can still hear the bubblies from air escaping in the overflow tank, no fluid but it will gurgle out some air. I mentioned the resurfacing because it was a recomendation from the pops. I am just looking to see if it is worth my time and whether or ot i can do it in a weekend. Thanks fellas.

 

these truck are easy to work on u like just got a truck jacked up buy the guy how hand the befor us and monkey riged it

 

Dude, we can barely read that.

 

it appears we need the f350 translator again... he was doing so good on his spelling!!!

 

If you didn't get the temp. above the O or R, you shouldn't have gotten it hot enough to warp the heads. Without warped heads, there's no reason to shave them. I've never had the heads off of a 7.3, but I've had many heads off the 5.7 chevies. It's not hard at all. First, simply remove the valve cover. Then unbolt the head from the block, and remove the manifold from the head. I'd take it in before ever starting to have a compression test run to see which head is leaking. Hopefully, this will keep you from replacing both head gaskets. I'd replace the head bolts also when changing the head gasket as they tend to stretch over the years. Make sure when you retorque the head bolts to A) do it in proper sequence and B) put oil on the heads of the bolts so they don't bind up giving you an improper torque rating.

 

wrecking ball and myself got truck monky rig to work buy the previse owerner is that better

 

Well, i wouldn't have the heads milled but if you still want to make sure its true, find a machine shop that has the BIG belt sander and let him run it on there for a split second and that will tell you if its true or not. All head jobs I have done on customers cars when I was working as a mechanic we had the machine shop to throw it on the belt sander to true it back up. It doesn't take off as much as milling as long as you don't leave it on there too long. As far as the labor it shouldn't bee too bad. One way to lighten the load is to hitch the head up to a cherry picker "engine hoist" and have somebody jack it up as you guide it.