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Old Jul 27, 2009 | 07:31 AM
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Rotating tires

I was gona post this about rotating tires a week or so ago, but on the highway coming home last night I had a blow-out (picked up a bolt) and had to change in the middle of no-where.
Now I rotated the tires at home and had to beat them to get them off (us who live in northern states and get winter weather plus the crap they put down to salt the roads) My aluminum rims had fused to the hubs. I never siezed all before I put them back on. So glad I did I could just imagine trying to get them off if I hadn't. Now I have a few words about the wimppy jack Rrrrrr.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2009 | 09:27 AM
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I spray the backs of the rims with a white grease so they wont stick. Ive had to beat them off with a sludge hammer before. I also pick up a chepo floor jack in a case and threw it under the seat in the back of the cab.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2009 | 10:45 AM
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I have a Craftsman 4 ton hydraulic bottle jack that fits in the OEM spot behind my rear seat. Pumping the Craftsman is easier than turning the OEM!!!
 
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Old Jul 27, 2009 | 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by brian42
I have a Craftsman 4 ton hydraulic bottle jack that fits in the OEM spot behind my rear seat. Pumping the Craftsman is easier than turning the OEM!!!
I'm gona do that! I build Log Cabins and have a ton of bottle jacks, just never gave it any thought before its why I posted this for everyone else to be perpared.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2009 | 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by CampD
I'm gona do that! I build Log Cabins and have a ton of bottle jacks, just never gave it any thought before its why I posted this for everyone else to be perpared.
I never thought if it until I was driving my last truck ('97 F-150) across the country and had a flat in Tennessee. I spent forever on the side of the highway turning that freakin' **** on the jack to lift it up!! It didn't reach high enough the first time so I had to drop it back down and put a 2x4 under it (double ). Since then, I always make sure I have a hydraulic bottle jack with me. So much quicker and easier.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2009 | 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by CampD
to get them off (us who live in northern states and get winter weather plus the crap they put down to salt the roads) My aluminum rims had fused to the hubs. I never siezed all before I put them back on. So glad I did I could just imagine trying to get them off if I hadn't. Now I have a few words about the wimppy jack Rrrrrr.
I believe what you experienced here is called galvanic corrosion. Commonly happens between two different metals when they have contact and there is an electrolyte present.

Has less to do with the northern states and how they treat their roads, has everything to do with aluminum and iron touching each other for that length of time.

On commercial trucks they install a plastic or rubber spacer between dissimilar wheels and/or between the inside wheel and the brake drum.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2009 | 12:22 PM
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I put anti-seize on the back of the wheel and on the drum when I change them since it won't burn off like grease would.

I like the rubber plastic disk anyone know it they make them for non commercial use?

Have to do a internet search and see let you know what I find.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2009 | 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by brian42
I never thought if it until I was driving my last truck ('97 F-150) across the country and had a flat in Tennessee. I spent forever on the side of the highway turning that freakin' **** on the jack to lift it up!! It didn't reach high enough the first time so I had to drop it back down and put a 2x4 under it (double ). Since then, I always make sure I have a hydraulic bottle jack with me. So much quicker and easier.
My toughts exactly.I jacked it up all the way, got the flat off but then couldnt get the spare on and jack wouldn't go any higher. Had to let it down onto a block (my log cabin sample) put a 2x under the jack and then slooooooooooowly jack it back up all the while 18 wheelers are wizzin by.

And to the galvanic corrosion, yeah throw a little calcium clorride into the mix and pressto changeo! stuck rims
 
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Old Jul 27, 2009 | 01:11 PM
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And if anyone wants a foolproof way of avoiding this, they can swap me for my chrome-clad steel wheels. Problem solved!

I don't like steel wheels. They may not bind to brake drums, but they sure are heavy...
 
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Old Jul 27, 2009 | 03:26 PM
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When rotating, what is the best way?

front to back?

diagonally front to rear?
 
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Old Jul 27, 2009 | 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by skunk250
When rotating, what is the best way?

front to back?

diagonally front to rear?
The best way is front to rear (same side). This keeps the tread being used in the same direction. I wouldn't cross sides unless you notice a lot more tread depth on one side than the other, then see below.

If you notice any uneven wear (i.e. you do a lot of burnouts with an open differential) you can cross sides. Always cross going TO the drive wheels. For a RWD cross when going front to back (the backs should go straight forward to the front without crossing).
 
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Old Jul 27, 2009 | 04:25 PM
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Two things. I have steel wheels and they stick on the back too. Have used the BFH or crowbar to get them loose.

I have a 4x4 and the rotation pattern is back straight to the front and the fronts to the oposite side rear. I think it show this in the owners manual for rotation that doesn't include the spare.
 
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