Pertronix problem diagnostics
Thread Starter
|
Rabbit-Hole Researcher
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 466
Likes: 6
From: Middle of Ohio
Pertronix problem diagnostics
I am on my fifth Pertronix Ignitor, this one an Ignitor II. I love them.
Finally, I did have a problem with a new one, and learned some more about these points replacement modules.
Things to check:
1. Clean the baseplate so a good ground exists.
2. Use an ohm-meter and make sure you have less than 0.2 ohm resistance between the Ignitor mounting and the center of your negitive battery post. This checks a whole series of ground issues.
3. If you have resistance between the two, (A) check your battery terminals, (B) ground to engine, and (C) the little two-inch flexible braided copper 'wire' that connects the moving part of the baseplate to the inside of the distributor. It used to go under the points screw.
4. You need over 8 volts at the coil to power the module. Problems with the bypass resistor or "special resistance wire" may reduce your volts. Since the system voltage may go to 14.8 volts while the engine is running, I would keep the resistance here.
5. Be careful if you are using a "remanufactured distributor". The shafts may be shorter, and it puts the magnet ring too low. The ring should be even with the top of the Ignitor. The solution is to use a #8 O-ring inside the magnet ring. This will space it higher.
5. Trouble shooting:
(A) Make sure your Ignitor red wire goes to the positive side of the coil, and the black one goes to the negative.
(B) Get or borrow an old-fashioned needle-style VOM for the following:
Hook the VOM black lead to the Negative battery terminal, and put the red lead on the Negative - side of the coil. Crank the engine. The voltage should go from something over 8 volts down to 1.5 volts at least. If this happens, the module is good.
6. I have done a little research on fancy coils. As far as I can tell they are a waste of money.
In summary, follow the directions!
Kevin
Finally, I did have a problem with a new one, and learned some more about these points replacement modules.
Things to check:
1. Clean the baseplate so a good ground exists.
2. Use an ohm-meter and make sure you have less than 0.2 ohm resistance between the Ignitor mounting and the center of your negitive battery post. This checks a whole series of ground issues.
3. If you have resistance between the two, (A) check your battery terminals, (B) ground to engine, and (C) the little two-inch flexible braided copper 'wire' that connects the moving part of the baseplate to the inside of the distributor. It used to go under the points screw.
4. You need over 8 volts at the coil to power the module. Problems with the bypass resistor or "special resistance wire" may reduce your volts. Since the system voltage may go to 14.8 volts while the engine is running, I would keep the resistance here.
5. Be careful if you are using a "remanufactured distributor". The shafts may be shorter, and it puts the magnet ring too low. The ring should be even with the top of the Ignitor. The solution is to use a #8 O-ring inside the magnet ring. This will space it higher.
5. Trouble shooting:
(A) Make sure your Ignitor red wire goes to the positive side of the coil, and the black one goes to the negative.
(B) Get or borrow an old-fashioned needle-style VOM for the following:
Hook the VOM black lead to the Negative battery terminal, and put the red lead on the Negative - side of the coil. Crank the engine. The voltage should go from something over 8 volts down to 1.5 volts at least. If this happens, the module is good.
6. I have done a little research on fancy coils. As far as I can tell they are a waste of money.
In summary, follow the directions!
Kevin
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
rasmuspa
1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
4
Jun 27, 2016 01:36 PM
FORDF250HDXLT
Big Block V8 - 385 Series (6.1/370, 7.0/429, 7.5/460)
6
Nov 22, 2015 08:53 AM
luke-ao
FE & FT Big Block V8 (332, 352, 360, 390, 406, 410, 427, 428)
12
Sep 4, 2012 05:22 PM
RomerB2
Audio & Video Systems, Navigation, Satellite Radio & Mobile Electronics
8
Sep 14, 2005 07:12 PM
