ok so i got a 94 f350 dually 7.3idi with a E40D tranny and i just did the TPS cause i had this problem before and now a week later its doing it again! the light flashes and when it does it the truck shift really hard or shifts really fast! and then sometimes when the light is off it shifts perfect! maybe i got a bad tps???? i tried gettin a speed sensor but the one i got i dont have anything on my tranny that looks like it!! and then i was told to change the sensor on the rear axle so i did and that did nothing! please HELP! hahah thanks CJ

 

The speed sensor on a 94 is located in the rear axle.

How is your speedometer reading?
Nice and smooth or jumping around?

 

my f 250 93 has had the same thing. i finely went to a ford dealer for repairs, had old wires on tps and adjust tps and more old wires. friend of mine same lite flashes on a 99 diesel. i like the c6 in my other truck better. seems more simple, less electronic

 

i replaced that sensor on the rear axle and nothing samething! the speedo is perfect! smooth as can be! i might tryi gettin another tps! and checking the wires to it!

 

I think a code scanner may be a cheaper option.

Here is some info on the FILP (TPS) settings and adjustments.

CLARIFICATION NOTE: YOU DO NOT USE THE .515" GAUGE BLOCK
WHEN USING THE DVOM METHOD TO ADJUST THE TPS/FIPL. PLEASE
SEE ADDENDUM AT BOTTOM OF PAGE BEFORE STARTING ANY
PROCEDURE.
Correction
Check TPS/FIPL
Here's how
1. Hook DVOM black lead to battery negative cable.
2. Turn Key to on position (do not start engine).
3. Set meter to DC volts/ 0 to 40-volt scale.
Note
Leave 3-wire connector hooked up to TPS/FIPL sensor for test.
4. Probe black wire on 3-wire connector with red lead of meter. Must be less than .1
volts (that's 1/10 of a volt not l volt). Will probably read in milli-volts. This is the
ground wire. If more then .1 volts, ground is bad.
5. Now probe the orange wire. Must be close to 5 volts. This is reference voltage
sent from the controller. No voltage means an open wire between the sensor and
the controller. Low voltage means the wire is shorted to ground.
6. Check the green wire. It should be around 1 volt. Leave the red lead hooked up to
the wire and steadily open the throttle until it is wide open. You should see a
steady increase in voltage up to 4 to 4.5 volts, with no fluctuation. Be careful! If
you open the throttle to fast the DVOM will probably show 0 voltage or out of
limits. This is normal. If the voltage does not increase at all the TPS/FIPL is bad. If
it is below 1 volt and never gets to 4 volts, it might just need to be adjusted.
To Adjust FIPL if you don't have a scanner:
1. Loosen FIPL adjustment bolts.
2. Hook DVOM black lead to battery negative cable.
Note
Leave 3-wire connector hooked up to FIPL.
3. Turn key to on position (do not start engine).
4. Set DVOM to DC volts/ 0 to 40 volt scale.
5. Probe green wire (center wire) with red lead of meter.
6. Idle- 1.1 to 1.4 volts.
7. Wide open throttle- 4.1 to 4.5 volts.
ADDENDUM TO ABOVE TEST AND ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE (Provided by
direct experience from Ford Truck Enthusiast Message Board Member, RxF, which may
help you get insight and verify what your own Throttle Position Sensor or Fuel Injection
Pump Lever sensor is doing. Note: this was taken from a thread in the Pre-Powerstroke
Diesel Section but should mostly apply to the TPS on gasoline engines as well; edited
some for succinctity)
A Note on the Gauge Block:
If using a DVOM to adjust the FIPL sensor, you DO NOT use the .515" gauge block. The
gauge block is only used when adjusting the FIPL sensor with a Scanner Tool. WOT
(Wide Open Throttle) is literally when the Fuel Injection Pump Lever is moved all the
way from it's idle position to when the Maximum Throttle Set Screw (DO NOT ADJUST)
makes contact with the Injection Pump Maximum Throttle Stop.
" The gauge block is only used with the 'scanner tool' or a resistance adjustment
procedure I've seen. From reading that procedure (the above procedure not in italics), it
was not initially clear to me that this was to be done without the gauge block. The
confusion came because the DVOM voltage adjustment procedure was described as an
alternative to the (preferred) scanner-tool procedure. The scanner procedure was
described first and mandated the gauge block use. The verbage should have made it clear
not to use it when performing the alternate procedure.
The following was verified on my truck:
Reference Voltage= 5.04volts
Ground Terminal Voltage was 18 millivolts (.018 volts) after cleaning grounds.
So the system environment I put the FIPL sensor into is good.
Final Adjusted FIPL sensor results:
Idle: 1.33v, WOT: 4.03v
These numbers were the best I could get with the 2 FIPL sensors I had, one not too old
and the other brand new.
The FIPL sensors (either one) have a Resistance Total equal to about 4.57kilohms.
There is just about 1.1 miliamps (1.1028 ma) of current drawn from the reference supply.
With the gauge block in place, the FIPL sensor had a Center Terminal to Ground
Resistance of 1.9 kilohms. Then, with voltage applied, the center terminal generated 2.25
volts with the gauge block in place. THIS MEANS THE GAUGE BLOCK PUTS YOU IN
A MID-THROTTLE STATE.
HELPFUL HINTS:
1. Probing the FIPL sensor Voltages: Do this from the back (wire side) of the FIPL
sensor. There is a polyurethane grommet that is grey in color which the 3 wires enter the
harness connector through. This grommet is easily removed with a screwdriver w/o
damage. When done with testing/adjustment, apply a slight film dielectric grease on outer
edge of grommet to ease insertion into 3-wire harness connector and provide an
improved seal.
2. Prior to adjusting the FIPL sensor, disconnect the electrical connection to the Fast
Idle Solenoid. This ensures that when you have the ignition switch on, the solenoid
plunger does not engage and there will be no voltage discrepancies when adjusting the
FIPL sensor idle voltage. Be sure to re-connect the fast idle solenoid once you've gotten
the FIPL sensor adjusted."
Part Number
FIPL Sensor
Ford # F2TZ-9B989-C

 

Sorry if I'm digging up an old post. I'm a new Ford Truck owner-- it's a 93 7.3 idi crewcab formerly owned by city of Los Angeles and was a railroad truck (had train wheels on it) but ended up being their yard truck the last couple years afaik. It's only got 82K miles on it.

Not long after I got it, after taking a freeway jaunt, I turned onto surface streets and up a steep hill and upon downshift the od light started flashing. I found this forum, read a bunch, topped up the tranny fluid 1/2qt, and disconnected the neg battery lead to reset light. It came back. Took it to tranny shop and they told me it is likely the FIPL switch and it would be $200 to replace it and then rediagnose because they weren't sure that was the problem. I replaced it for $40 myself and it was at .95-1.0v at idle so I left it. reset light and it tripped again. Now home and checking with meter and going through the checks above and have some discrepancies I'd like some help /clarity with:

Wire color-- the top wire is white with a red tracer and reads 0 volts when ignition key is on. Center wire is maybe an off-green color with a white tracer (tough to tell in the dark) now is adjusted to read 1.1-3.8 idle-WOT, and bottom wire is brown with a white tracer and reads 4.88-4.89. My wiring color is different than above, but sounds like the wiring is backwards from the above quoted post, no, or is it spot on and I'm just the idiot reading it wrong?

The "shift cable" for the column indicator was out of adjustment when I looked at the truck but was repaired by the yard by the time I picked it up. Could there be another related sensor related to the gear selector that could be contributing to my flashing od light?

Thanks for any help.

 

I am no E4OD guru, however does your speedometer and tachometer work correctly ???

No, column indicator has no affect on the transmission.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

it could be the tach sensor is the tach acting normal?
the tach sensor is a ford only part E5TZ-17B384-A is the part #

 

Thanks for the responses.

Tach is acting normally.

After adjusting the fipl and disconnecting the batteries once again (and posting) I took another drive. Everything was great, shifted smoothly once again (out of safe mode). Maybe even shifted a little early. I went and drove around 10-15 minutes and all was fine... Until I went up that short, steep hill that tripped it the first time. The truck didn't downshift at all going up the hill, but when I gradually let off the throttle (or pedal) as I crested the hill it started to flash again (grrr)-- So there was no reaction from the transmission whatsoever up that hill, but when I released throttle (pedal) input, light started to flash.

Only other thing I can think of is the rear tires are not the stock size-- they are a bit larger than stock. Could this be a contributing factor?

I can't say I'm too eager to take it back to either repair shop that I've been to. First one had the truck 9 hours and didn't even touch it, second one said "maybe" fipl switch after having it 8 hours. From reading elsewhere on this forum, it looks like the fipl trouble code is always thrown unless other action is taken.

 

Tire size should have nothing to do with your problem.

Can you find the correct voltages on the three wires if you pay no attention to colors?

4. Probe black wire on 3-wire connector with red lead of meter. Must be less than .1
volts (that's 1/10 of a volt not l volt). Will probably read in milli-volts. This is the
ground wire. If more then .1 volts, ground is bad.

5. Now probe the orange wire. Must be close to 5 volts. This is reference voltage
sent from the controller. No voltage means an open wire between the sensor and
the controller. Low voltage means the wire is shorted to ground.

6. Check the green wire. It should be around 1 volt. Leave the red lead hooked up to
the wire and steadily open the throttle until it is wide open. You should see a
steady increase in voltage up to 4 to 4.5 volts, with no fluctuation. Be careful! If
you open the throttle to fast the DVOM will probably show 0 voltage or out of
limits. This is normal. If the voltage does not increase at all the TPS/FIPL is bad. If
it is below 1 volt and never gets to 4 volts, it might just need to be adjusted.

Wire color--
the top wire is white with a red tracer (sounds like the black wire in 4) and reads 0 volts when ignition key is on.

Center wire is maybe an off-green color (sounds like the green wire in 6) with a white tracer (tough to tell in the dark) now is adjusted to read 1.1-3.8 idle-WOT

bottom wire is brown with a white tracer (sounds like the orange wire in 5) and reads 4.88-4.89.

 

Yea, sorry if I didn't make that clear. If I ignore the wire colors and positions, I get similar readings to what you posted I should be getting.

Should I try to adjust it further than 1.15-- say maybe closer to 1.2 or 1.3 at idle?

I only ever plan to tow with it-- it's not like it's going to be a daily driver. The weight including trailer will typically be only about 3000lbs with a max of 7000.

Incidentally, prior to posting and replacing the FIPL I drove it 1200 miles towing about 3000 lbs with it flashing and didn't have a lick of trouble. OD was toggled off and only did 55-60mph (right around 2200-2500rpms the whole way)

If anyone has a suggestion on what else I should check, I'm all ears. Just please understand I don't know what all the acronyms mean. Took me a while to figure out what DVOM was