I have a 92 F250 with a 7.3 IDI and an E4OD trans and I am having a problem with the shifting. Here is the story behind it. I was having problems with the injectors and the pump, so I had a new pump, new injectors, and new glow plugs put in. I got the vehicle back and the check engine light came on. While I was driving it, it had no real power. I had the accelerator pedal to the floor and it seemed to sort of fall on its face and no real power. I took it to another shop because I thought it was a trans problem and they came highly recommended. They checked it all out and the check engine light was a TPS problem. They also said the guy who put the injector pump didn't time it correctly. They adjusted the timing some and then tried to adjust the TPS unit, but the check engine light came back on. I ended up putting an new TPS unit on and adjusted it as described by the shop. The O/D light would flash when I was going in reverse but when I put the vehicle back into drive gears, it would stop flashing. The transmission front seal blew out last year and I had the transmission rebuilt with a stronger shift kit, and also a bigger torque converter.

So the problem I am having now is that it seems to pull really well in 1st and 2nd, but when it shifts to 3rd or OD it seems to fall flat on its face and not pull very well. Almost like it misses shifting into 3rd and goes directly into OD. It still will pick up speed, but no torque / power in doing so. It seems like I am really working the trans hard to get the speed up whatever the speed limit is. It also seems to shift back and forth from OD to 3rd and vise a versa a little weird compared to before I replaced the injector pump. Does anyone have any suggestions? Is this a TPS problem that needs more adjustment, and if so is there a way to tell if you have the unit adjusted correctly or is this some sort of other problem? The injector pump, injectors and glow plugs all came from AccurateDiesel. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

This was posted in another thread. I just copied and pasted. Same instructions I used to adjust mine.


TESTING THE FIPL SENSOR Or TPS

Note During these tests the negative lead of the voltmeter MUST be connected directly to the negative battery post and the computer and FIPL harnesses must not be disconnected.



1. Wire A is reference voltage sent to the sensor from the computer ORANGE/WHITE

TEST: With the KEY ON, ENGINE OFF voltage should be approximately 5 volts.

2. Wire B is the ground path from the FIPL sensor to the computer BLACK/WHITE

TEST: With the KEY ON, ENGINE OFF voltage should be volts?? or less.

3. Wire C is the throttle opening signal sent to the computer from the FIPL sensor . TEST With the KEY ON, ENGINE OFF and the throttle at idle position, voltage should be approximately 1.2 volts. With The throttle fully open, voltage should be approximately 4.5 volts. ORANGE/WHITE (CENTER WIRE)


The sweep from 1.2 volts at idle to approximately 4.5 volts at full throttle should be smooth. A meter with a snapshot or min/max capture mode is useful to catch intermittent "opens".

If the previously described range cannot be attained, FIPL adjustment can be achieved by rotating the sensor (on its bracket) one way or the other until the voltage values are satisfactory.

 

I went through some shifting issues where my mad trouble shooting skills led me to replace that rat bass-tard to replace FIPL. In the end it turned out all my shifting troubles were due to the much easier to replace tach sensor. Might be worth taking a look at.