New Engine, wont start???
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
How do I get it out? I took the plug out of both heads and cycled the key till nothing but fuel came out.
Ive cranked the engine so much, its probley got 500 miles on it now. lol
Ive cranked the engine so much, its probley got 500 miles on it now. lol
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 12,177
Likes: 40
From: Newport, WA
Not air in the fuel, air in the oil. The injectors fire off high pressure oil, and any time you get air back in the oil system (from removing an injector, fixing an HPOP leak etc) it takes some time to work the air out enough to fire the injectors. If you've done a bunch of cranking it may not be the problem, but it is possible. It can take quite a while from what I've read. Also, go back and double check the electrical connections at the valve covers, and at the big plug above the driver's side valve cover to make sure they are connected properly.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 13,144
Likes: 11
From: Rochdale MA
I have to wait because I cant figure it out myself,LOL
My Email is oceanbranch@Hotmail.com Send me a Email and Ill give you my phone number for when you have time.
The whole story with the truck is....
I drove the truck to my farm to do the work on it, It was a good working F350 crew cab. 4x4.. Just has alot of hard miles on it.
I had build a custom short bed F550 4x4 frame with 12inchs of lift with 40"truck tires on 20'' "that size is the most avalable south of the border"
So I had the engine drivetrain and frame all together and just sat this 350 cab on it. Now it wont run!
I built the engine, Mike Smith machine shop In FortWorth did all the Machine work, It was the org f550 Engine and in great shape. The Injectors came out of another 7.3 I had out of a wreaked f350 And was a low mile moter thats why I used them. Iput the new nozzels on them my self. "wasnt hard, and everything looked good". All the rest of the sensors and wiring came off the other moter that was running before all this.
I have a diffrent Cpu and all kinds of parts to swap around, But they are all 99 and 00s They all look the same??
I need to do a buzz test (dont have what it takes) and Yeah prob some kind of compat problem!!! Need help!!!!
My Email is oceanbranch@Hotmail.com Send me a Email and Ill give you my phone number for when you have time.
The whole story with the truck is....
I drove the truck to my farm to do the work on it, It was a good working F350 crew cab. 4x4.. Just has alot of hard miles on it.
I had build a custom short bed F550 4x4 frame with 12inchs of lift with 40"truck tires on 20'' "that size is the most avalable south of the border"
So I had the engine drivetrain and frame all together and just sat this 350 cab on it. Now it wont run!
I built the engine, Mike Smith machine shop In FortWorth did all the Machine work, It was the org f550 Engine and in great shape. The Injectors came out of another 7.3 I had out of a wreaked f350 And was a low mile moter thats why I used them. Iput the new nozzels on them my self. "wasnt hard, and everything looked good". All the rest of the sensors and wiring came off the other moter that was running before all this.
I have a diffrent Cpu and all kinds of parts to swap around, But they are all 99 and 00s They all look the same??
I need to do a buzz test (dont have what it takes) and Yeah prob some kind of compat problem!!! Need help!!!!
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
I did buy a new CPS and put it in...A Grey one!!
still stuck
Elder User
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 860
Likes: 2
From: Liberty Lake, WA
I installed a new engine a few months ago, the engine did take awhile to start, but it did start within about 10 mins of cranking (15-20 sec intervals and then wait a few mins).
It does sound like you have another issue going on.
What does your ICP on the scanner say when cranking (looking for ICP and duty cycle %)
It does sound like you have another issue going on.
What does your ICP on the scanner say when cranking (looking for ICP and duty cycle %)
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
I installed a new engine a few months ago, the engine did take awhile to start, but it did start within about 10 mins of cranking (15-20 sec intervals and then wait a few mins).
It does sound like you have another issue going on.
What does your ICP on the scanner say when cranking (looking for ICP and duty cycle %)
It does sound like you have another issue going on.
What does your ICP on the scanner say when cranking (looking for ICP and duty cycle %)
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
What exactly do you mean the scanner looses connection? If the power to the OBDII plug is cutting out while cranking, it may be cutting out to the computer also. I'd say you first need to verify something isn't shorting and causing the PCM to reset.
If you have access to a hydraulic gauge, you can remove the ICP sensor and stick a gauge in there to see what kind of pressure your building in the rails. There's a fuel rail and an oil rail in the head. Sounds like you've verified fuel, just need to make sure you've got oil pressure in the heads and don't have any voltage issues.
My scanner will buzz the injectors and we'll see what other info we can watch. If the power to the computer is cutting out while cranking, that will need to be addressed before the truck will start. I'll give you a call tomorrow afternoon and we'll set something up.
If you have access to a hydraulic gauge, you can remove the ICP sensor and stick a gauge in there to see what kind of pressure your building in the rails. There's a fuel rail and an oil rail in the head. Sounds like you've verified fuel, just need to make sure you've got oil pressure in the heads and don't have any voltage issues.
My scanner will buzz the injectors and we'll see what other info we can watch. If the power to the computer is cutting out while cranking, that will need to be addressed before the truck will start. I'll give you a call tomorrow afternoon and we'll set something up.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
What exactly do you mean the scanner looses connection? If the power to the OBDII plug is cutting out while cranking, it may be cutting out to the computer also. I'd say you first need to verify something isn't shorting and causing the PCM to reset.
If you have access to a hydraulic gauge, you can remove the ICP sensor and stick a gauge in there to see what kind of pressure your building in the rails. There's a fuel rail and an oil rail in the head. Sounds like you've verified fuel, just need to make sure you've got oil pressure in the heads and don't have any voltage issues.
My scanner will buzz the injectors and we'll see what other info we can watch. If the power to the computer is cutting out while cranking, that will need to be addressed before the truck will start. I'll give you a call tomorrow afternoon and we'll set something up.
If you have access to a hydraulic gauge, you can remove the ICP sensor and stick a gauge in there to see what kind of pressure your building in the rails. There's a fuel rail and an oil rail in the head. Sounds like you've verified fuel, just need to make sure you've got oil pressure in the heads and don't have any voltage issues.
My scanner will buzz the injectors and we'll see what other info we can watch. If the power to the computer is cutting out while cranking, that will need to be addressed before the truck will start. I'll give you a call tomorrow afternoon and we'll set something up.
The hyd gauge I have isnt the right thread size. I wanted to check that.
I will wait for your call, Thank you..
Oh Im not sure why the scanner loses connection, It just does when I hit the key to spin the moter. I think a buzz test would tell alot!
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
Still no start
Stopped by and looked at the truck for a couple of hours today, still no start.
Here's the summary so far. Engine will spin and almost catch. It sounds like one injector starts to fire as the engine is starting, but the others decide not to play along. At one point I saw the IPR % decrease and ICP psi drop after one of these "catch" episodes as if the PCM thought it was going to start. Problem is the catch is more of a quick skip, but with no definitave pattern.
ICP psi is slow to build if the truck has been sitting for a few minutes, but starts maxing out withing 3 seconds. IPR % will max at 64 then drop down to around 36%. ICP while cranking easily reaches and maintanes 2,200 + psi. Scanner picks up engine rpm, injector pulse width varies depending on how much cranking you're doing, but is in the 2 - 6 ms range. EOT was reading around 100 deg (close to outside temp)
All fuses checked with test light and relays swapped around. Only codes I got were 603, a 605, and one for the IAH. There's smoke out the tailpipe while cranking, injectors buzz ok (5 & 8 sound a little weak), KOEO tells nothing other than the above codes. Batteries on a charger while cranking and voltage mostly stayed good except for a couple of times it dropped to 0 for a split second during cranking. No obvius shorts in the wiring harness, but there's plenty of tape on the wire loom ends keeping everything nice and clean. We did tighten up the battery cable connections since they were just layed on there. I wouldn't have noticed the voltage issue if my laptop battery was not getting weak and I had it plugged into the lighter on the truck. The screen flickered like when you unplug the charger. We know a PCM reset while cranking can cause a no start, but the voltage issue is intermittent so I ignored that one.
Pulled the drivers side valve cover, checked wiring at the 42 pin connector, injectors on drivers side do spit oil while cranking. He has a PCM from an early 99 and one from an 00. Tried both PCM's with no change. Also tried a 110v & 120v IDM. All PCM & IDM combinations buzz the injectors and provide the same readings on the scanner. Only one PCM threw the 0605 code.
Truck has AD injectors (no AE in #8) that he did a DIY type rebuild on the lower half and put in larger nozzles. He has swapped the CPS, IPR, & ICP, and the main engine wiring harness in addition to the PCM & IDM. Visual check of fuel pressure seems ok, but did not have a gauge to verify. Fuel pump and intank pick up assembly are new thought. Engine oil is full and HPOP reservoir never did drain down.
If anyone is still reading this long post, one harness, PCM & IDM is an early 99 model and the other is a 2000 model. Any chance the current harness has a different pin out somewhere causing an issue? What are the odds that all 8 injectors got screwed up during the DIY rebuild? (He did use new o-rings).
He does have every spare part imagineable available, so if there's anything you can think of, he can swap it in.
What did I miss?
Here's the summary so far. Engine will spin and almost catch. It sounds like one injector starts to fire as the engine is starting, but the others decide not to play along. At one point I saw the IPR % decrease and ICP psi drop after one of these "catch" episodes as if the PCM thought it was going to start. Problem is the catch is more of a quick skip, but with no definitave pattern.
ICP psi is slow to build if the truck has been sitting for a few minutes, but starts maxing out withing 3 seconds. IPR % will max at 64 then drop down to around 36%. ICP while cranking easily reaches and maintanes 2,200 + psi. Scanner picks up engine rpm, injector pulse width varies depending on how much cranking you're doing, but is in the 2 - 6 ms range. EOT was reading around 100 deg (close to outside temp)
All fuses checked with test light and relays swapped around. Only codes I got were 603, a 605, and one for the IAH. There's smoke out the tailpipe while cranking, injectors buzz ok (5 & 8 sound a little weak), KOEO tells nothing other than the above codes. Batteries on a charger while cranking and voltage mostly stayed good except for a couple of times it dropped to 0 for a split second during cranking. No obvius shorts in the wiring harness, but there's plenty of tape on the wire loom ends keeping everything nice and clean. We did tighten up the battery cable connections since they were just layed on there. I wouldn't have noticed the voltage issue if my laptop battery was not getting weak and I had it plugged into the lighter on the truck. The screen flickered like when you unplug the charger. We know a PCM reset while cranking can cause a no start, but the voltage issue is intermittent so I ignored that one.
Pulled the drivers side valve cover, checked wiring at the 42 pin connector, injectors on drivers side do spit oil while cranking. He has a PCM from an early 99 and one from an 00. Tried both PCM's with no change. Also tried a 110v & 120v IDM. All PCM & IDM combinations buzz the injectors and provide the same readings on the scanner. Only one PCM threw the 0605 code.
Truck has AD injectors (no AE in #8) that he did a DIY type rebuild on the lower half and put in larger nozzles. He has swapped the CPS, IPR, & ICP, and the main engine wiring harness in addition to the PCM & IDM. Visual check of fuel pressure seems ok, but did not have a gauge to verify. Fuel pump and intank pick up assembly are new thought. Engine oil is full and HPOP reservoir never did drain down.
If anyone is still reading this long post, one harness, PCM & IDM is an early 99 model and the other is a 2000 model. Any chance the current harness has a different pin out somewhere causing an issue? What are the odds that all 8 injectors got screwed up during the DIY rebuild? (He did use new o-rings).
He does have every spare part imagineable available, so if there's anything you can think of, he can swap it in.
What did I miss?