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Sooo much money

 
  #1  
Old 07-22-2009, 10:35 AM
mldrew21
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Sooo much money

Ok Ive been having the same problem with my 1990 F150 for about a year or so. Over two thousand has been put into mechanical work and not a thing has changed. Maybe one of you has an idea as to what it can be.

When I start the truck it will idle very rough, sometimes I have to give it gas just to keep it on. As far as driving goes, at times it drives perfectly but for the most part its horrible. The trucks RPMs will drop suddenly and go back up and the truck will jerk. When coming around a curve or turn it seems like I have to floor the gas pedal just to get it to accelerate. Like theres a total loss of power completely. Now for the worst part... Every now and then the truck will completely cut off without any warning. It happens when Im only going 30 and when Im going as fast as 80. Theres no shudder or jerk, it just shuts off. It usually stays off anywhere from 15 minutes to several hours.

The things Ive had done to it...
New catalytic converter and muffler
New idle air controller
tons of work on the distributor.
tune up (wires, plugs, cap)
new fuel filter

thats all i can recall as of right now. please.. any help is greatly appreciated
 
  #2  
Old 07-22-2009, 10:41 AM
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Have you pulled the codes yet? If so post up what you get.
 
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Old 07-22-2009, 10:56 AM
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You've got an electrical problem somewhere, like conaski said pull the codes on it. I personally think it's your PCM going out like mine did. If you pull codes and get alot of codes like I did it's probably your PCM. Just to let you know you've got an ODB-1 computer.
 
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Old 07-22-2009, 11:08 AM
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And pulling the codes is easy. Find the EEC test harness behind the washer fluid resovoir, connect the STO and Sig-Rtn wires with a paper clip or piece of wire, turn the key to run and the fuel pump should cycle for a second and then the check engine light should begin to flash a sequence. See www.fordfuelinjection.com for pics and more info on this.
 
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Old 07-22-2009, 05:35 PM
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Better connect the STI to the signal return wire instead. The STO is connected to the check engine light and will damage the signal return circuit if jumpered together (+12V through the computer ground circuit).
 
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Old 07-22-2009, 10:37 PM
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i just run my STI to the neg. battery terminal?

i agree with the other guys, this definitely sounds electrical
 
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Old 07-23-2009, 12:58 AM
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ok ill try to pull the codes tomorrow before work and get back to you guys.
what type of electrical problems could be causing this? i know it cant be determined exactly without the codes but what are some possibilities?
 
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Old 07-23-2009, 04:43 AM
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i just run my STI to the neg. battery terminal?
That works, but the signal return wire is conveniently located much closer than the battery in the diagnostic connector. Plus, the signal return is a direct ground link to the computer, and I don't think a paperclip would reach the battery
 
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Old 07-23-2009, 11:05 AM
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carb it and get rid of the computer crap


hahahahaha it'll be more money to carb it than fix it though since you need a new fuel system and carb and intake and dissy
 
  #10  
Old 07-23-2009, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by mldrew21 View Post
The things Ive had done to it...
New catalytic converter and muffler
New idle air controller
tons of work on the distributor.
tune up (wires, plugs, cap)
new fuel filter
You spent over $2000 on the truck, and that's what you had done to it?

Hopefully you got a free paint job out of it at least...

I agree with pulling the codes. The sudden cut-out usually means something electrical. I would take the connector off the PCM and see if there is any water or corrosion in there. If you get a lot of codes it doesn't mean the PCM is bad.
 
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Old 07-23-2009, 12:38 PM
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I had a SOMEWHAT similar problem with a 1986 Ranger that i bought brand new....however mine for the most part drove perfectly,and then all of a sudden it would start missing or otherwise cutting out,until finally it would die altogether. mine always did give a warning,it never went from running perfect to just dead on the highway. it would then sit for 15-30 minutes,i would try and start it every five minutes or,finally it would start,and run rough,and i would rev it up a little and it would smooth out and run fine,until the next time. it was brought into the dealer 2 or 3 times,and they could never find out what was causing it,so after 2-1/2 years and roughly 50K miles on it,i traded it in on a new 1988 Ranger........good luck,and hopefully you get it resolved!
 
  #12  
Old 07-23-2009, 01:30 PM
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Ok on that note. I just bought an 89 F-150 5.0 four speed that had been sitting for about a year. I know the truck was taken care of (my old Unlce) it has 166K on it. The fuel gauage reads alll the way past full on the front tank and it cannot be used because someone tried to siphon gas out of the front tank and jammed it up so it cannot even be filled...when switched to the rear tank the gauge will not read past E..(filled it up today)...it seems like a grounding problem but the truck also runs rough and dies when first started...then smooths out...It also will backfire or pop when cold...not sure if the 2 are related..If it is a grounding problem where is the fuel guage grounded....any help would be much appreciated.......Thanks!
 
  #13  
Old 07-23-2009, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by moethomas80 View Post
Ok on that note. I just bought an 89 F-150 5.0 four speed that had been sitting for about a year. I know the truck was taken care of (my old Unlce) it has 166K on it. The fuel gauage reads alll the way past full on the front tank and it cannot be used because someone tried to siphon gas out of the front tank and jammed it up so it cannot even be filled...when switched to the rear tank the gauge will not read past E..(filled it up today)...it seems like a grounding problem but the truck also runs rough and dies when first started...then smooths out...It also will backfire or pop when cold...not sure if the 2 are related..If it is a grounding problem where is the fuel guage grounded....any help would be much appreciated.......Thanks!
It would be much easier for everyone else (and more likely to get the help you need) if you started your own thread. Piggy-backing on top of an existing thread with a different set of problems is going to confuse you, confuse the OP, and confuse everyone reading it.
 
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Old 07-23-2009, 02:31 PM
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Thank you...sorry for the trouble I am new to this site and was unsure how to start a new thread.
 
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Old 07-23-2009, 04:37 PM
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